Revisiting the fitting shell - the trial 'garments'

 The last post was a summary of the fitting shell flat patterns. I'm trying to find the smallest garment I can do my daily activities in. Of course, it's always a case of trying things out in cloth, tweaking the flat pattern, then testing again. Made up two versions, and wore each around the flat for a couple of early mornings and evenings. I talked about some of my comfort requirements yesterday, but should also mention that when sitting on a chair too high or too deep for a petite person, it's hard not to slump. Both versions coped well. 

The white version was made first, in three different leftovers*. Stitched a contrast thread at bust, waist and hip levels, so that between princess seams and visible landmark, it'd be easy to check the fit. I didn't bother finishing edges as this trial was never going to be wearable. The slit at the neck line was simply unpicking the Centre Front seam for a couple of inches - though I'm likely to reuse the idea in a more secure form.

*Only tiny scraps of each now remain from two worn-out sheets and a torn and stained duvet cover. I'm very happy to have made good use of all the decent bits.

The smallest fabric piece that would work for the darted version came from Mum's leftover box. Just managed it. The piecing at front shoulders had to be on a slightly different grain line. Only one fragment was over 2" wide once everything was cut out. 

I think the fabric is polyester crepe, stable on the grain and cross grain, but very springy and it frays like mad on the diagonal. It also distorts on the cutting mat. It was really hard to see where the grain lines were, and to make it harder the selvedges were missing on part of the length. So not a great choice to check drape or symmetry. 

Lots of pattern weight and pins were needed. Also pressed the central dart lines to try tame the spring before stitching up.  To cope with the fraying, I did French seams at shoulder and side seams. That technique needs more practice, as there are more than a few whiskers escaped to the right side. 

What do people do about fraying fabrics? Would zigzagging as soon as its cut out help?  I normally pin mark dart points and stitch as soon as possible. Would tailor tacks or a washable marker work better? 

The armscye is high, and was going to need trimming, so I set sleeves in as normal. When happy with the easing, zigzagged at a generous quarter inch, then trimmed. Perhaps pinking shears would have been even better.

I busked it when hemming French seams at the underarms (short sleeves). Pressed, released the seam in the hem area, tacked (hand basted) hemmed and then put in a few hand stitches where the angles gave meagre seams. Well, I'd shortened the sleeves for better proportions, so didn't have much to play with. 

Since I generally get decent results with a high neckline, but struggle once it get's wider and lower, I thought I'd experiment before I finished the top edge. Usually I shave by tucking one sleeve into the other, chalking round a French curve, and cutting through both layers. But this time I wanted a bit more of a scoop. Oh dear, I ended up with one very rounded curve and one slightly squared curve. Ok, I'd prefer a smidgeon lower anyway, so let's cut a curve on folded kitchen paper, then pin that in place before tracing and cutting. Much better. Isn't it rewarding coming up with a solution? Especially when there isn't the time pressure of working for someone else.

The bad news was some backwards creep during wear, luckily found out before it was bound. The problem may have been poor stitching or cutting at the centre back. I took in 1/8" at the top inch, and all was fine. However, I'm still not sure how low or wide a back neckline can get before I have to think carefully about back darts to deal with a wide back and narrow shoulders.

And how did it work out?

In the pictures at the top of the post, you can see the asymmetry at the hemline. That's caused by one shoulder sloping more than the other. However I'm going to live with it this year. 

I knew I was cutting it fine (pun intended) trialling with so little fabric. When I reach up, you can see this is the absolute minimum length for me. The gap above the trouser waistband would be too draughty for winter. But my rib-line is covered - I have scars there I'm not keen to show.

The zombie photo shows what I was aiming for. No pulling at the back. There is some pressure but it's evenly spread. This'll do. 

Overall I'm pleased to have two improved patterns, and one wearable garment from a small leftover. 

Revisiting the fitting shell - the flat patterns.

 

It was time to take some new measurements, and apply them to my fitting shell before choosing my next projects. There are always gymnastics when you have no fitting buddy, and little space. But I improvised with tight-fitting clothes, safety pins, elastic, and a t-square tied to a clothes-airer.

You can see the differences between my shape and a standard below - the grey lines are a European size 42, a 36"/90cm bust. The black lines, mine, are not just shorter than the size 42, but wider at the back, lower in the bust, and needing a sloping shoulder and upper rounded back adjustment. 

I'm also doing my own thing with the design intention. Instead of a second-skin moulage, I've tweaked and retweaked to try get the smallest woven garment I can do my daily activities in. Small people need to reach more often, not just up to high places, but forward, near zombie-mode, to the back of a desk or a worktop. So I need more movement ease than most people.

Last year, here's the princess version.  

This year, here's the darted version

Many years ago, I bought* a pattern book that included pattern drafting software. The CD is irretrievably lost now. However I occasionally use the software and the fitting shell macros, which I had backed up. *Well, suggested my own birthday present. 

Some of my adjustments were a case of finding the proper measurements to apply, a few others were new routines in the macros. (I was a software engineer in a  previous life, and my reading of the licence is that it's ok to tweak for personal use). This year's macro changes were to allow raising the armscye a smidgeon for movement ease, and drawing on an alternative, lower, neckline.

Next year I'm likely to work on the sleeves. I have tiny wrists, but have reasonable sized biceps. The upper sleeve is a bit tight when reaching forward. I'll bear that in mind when comparing my shells with whichever patterns I work on this summer.

Has anyone else spent the time to develop a fitting shell? What was the best way you used it?

What exactly is a knitted horseshoe scarf?

Kind readers have put up with me talking about how brain fogged I've been while knitting the horseshoe scarf.  Well, at last, here we are!** 

** Apologies for the rumpled shirt photos. More likely to be worn with a plain tee or to fill in a neckline in cooler weather.

The back story is that I improvised one in a hurry on the Addi Express (19 widely spaced pegs) knitting machine some years ago. When it became too tatty, I scrambled up a replacement on the same machine. The key thing was a curved back neckline - straight scarves sneak into the curve above my prominent spine bone - together with some way of fastening it at the front. What I came up with was a cross between a round collar, a sailor collar, and a boy-scout neckerchief. You really can see a knitted 'woggle'.

Do you ever find that something rushed up in whatever leftovers come to hand actually gets loads of use? This did!

Well, the white version has been exactly the throw-on-and-adjust no-fuss scarf that I wanted. There were a few things to improve on. It wasn't quite deep enough at the back of the neck. You can tell, if you peer hard at the back of the white version, that there's a gap between the scarf and the neckline of the RTW jumper. Not so good in winter. Could a different edge treatment give the extra depth? Let's try a garter stitch edge instead of a narrow rib. I also felt the tails on the front were too narrow for the length. Well, a broader edge will help that too.

This April I tried to read the stitches in the white one, write up the pattern, and hand-knit one in green or cream. Given both muddlement and a bad yarn choice (the variegated yarn was too fussy and the colour runs were too long), there will be no pictures of the green attempt. Started again in May with some unlabelled real wool-on-a-cone found at our local charity shop, using size 6mm needles. Much better, but hadn't allowed extra stitches on the outer edge. So with the last of the unused yarn and a little unpicking to reuse some of the failed attempt, there was enough to start again.

Finally, I have a wearable cream horseshoe scarf.  As always, it could be even better. If I make this again, I'd shape every four rows rather than every two on the tails to make them pointy-er. A smaller woggle, currently 8sts x 24rows, would reduce bulk in the tails, too.

I'm not sure whether I prefer it with the woggle or with my mouse shawl-pin. Probably a different choice summer and winter. What do you think?

Me Made May 2022 spills into June - How are we doing?

What's been tried:

1995 ish Apron. I've started to use this again for washing up etc. DH's Rtw mansize affair is too long at knee by about 3", and at neck strap. Decide whether I want to store two aprons in a small flat, or just put up with the excess. 

2015 ish Blue canvas trousers Extended at cf below waist in 2022. Much better. Won't bother tweaking front curve extension. Still need to deal with bleach stains once I get a navy permanent marker. Verdict: keep for messy outdoor tasks. 

2017 ish Dragonfly trousers, thin blue poly with white print. Still comfy though they're almost orphans now that most of the fellow brights have worn out. Still work with white tees. These were always good for packing. Verdict: keep. 

2018 leaf sleeveless A-line top, altered slightly to raise armholes. Fits nicely  The leaf design reminds me of seeds and nuts and grains. Verdict:keep 

2019-ish White frankenbra. From dead rtw and  distant descendent of VaVoom bra. This is the one with back pieces labelled 38C. Very comfy walking and active in the house. Digs in slightly when sitting even for short periods, but no malfunctions, not even when right strap slides off. Verdict: Keep reluctantly for now, but don't wear in downtime.

2020 Coral Rtw 3/4 sleeve top. Fine when walking, but too tight across back for either high housework or desk work. Some discomfort when sitting for short periods, and the floating threads in the woven design are starting to perish anyway. Verdict: replace.

2021 charity shop tweedy jacket. Tight at hh. Can I let seams out? Verdict: can't alter enough, so donate. 

2021 Island dress revamped in 2022. Upper back tweaked, and much improved. I might remove the facing  at some stage (added binding last year to fill in the neckline a bit - don't need both). And maybe replace the single 3/4" tuck with two 3/8" tucks, would look less of an afterthought. Verdict: keep as is for this year.

2021 Madras shirt is slightly tight at high hips, but has darts so could be let out. The sleeves are tight, though (could this be not enough cloth at the back again?) It's a linen/viscose mix, nicely breathable. Needs ironing after laundry but doesn't look bad after a day's wear. Verdict: keep for this year, but replace with one I can zombie in. 

2021 White pillowcase underskirt. Never brilliant at the back. Comfy enough, but fits badly at hh now (pandemic pounds, probably) Above knee, so could only sit in it at home. Verdict: Replace. EDIT: There's a tear starting below the button placket. Verdict: tear up for cleaning rags. 

Scrunchies. My remaining two are meagre (about 2"x12" original strip) and don't go with any of my clothes. They are used after nearly every hair wash though. Verdict: replace. (EDIT - yep, one more made,2"x18", much less tangly than a simple ponytail band. I should look for suitable small pieces for another)

2022 Charity shop Rtw woodland print long sleeve tee, altered in 2022. Size, large. Fitted well across hips and ok at waist, but worked down at upper back. Unpicked stay tape and added neckline darts, about 3/8" by 2.5". Once tested, refixed the stay tape. Verdict : improved enough to keep and enjoy, but, really, I do need extra fabric at upper back. 

2022 SS8 trousers in Paisley. Just tightened the elastic.

What hasn't happened:

We have only had a couple of days warm enough for sandals, so I've hardly worn skirts or shortsleeved tops yet. No formal occasions coming up either.

Need to see whether the paisley fabric is breathable if we get a hot day. And test which of the skirts meet the Merseyrail mininum*.

* long enough so my skin doesn't touch the seats on public transport.

2022 June - better fitting tops, mostly

Two of the three fabric remnants bought in May have been made up in June (just need to add buttons to one of them) And I've mashed up an oddment with a badly fitting rtw tee to make a really comfy PJ top.

A cream duck-print jersey tee, another Freya version. It's about as close a fit as I'm going to get without sacrificing ease of movement. Next version, I might tweak the neckline - to be lower and wider than the planned cardis - and, whilst I like the look of the shorter length, this one is going to be too draughty for the winter. Having said that, I like the colour and the feel of it, and I've worn it lots already.

The trial plum/grey PJ top was made from a soft knit fabric leftover from a top that didn't suit me.  Improved the fit (refined the pattern from the sage green top made last month)  I do like this version, with contrast sleeves and a patch pocket to tie the two fabric areas together. It's been worn lots already. 

A long standing UFO - a temporary cover for an office chair has been finished. This was 'almost there' when works on the flat started and everything was bundled into cupboards. Not all my stuff has been retrieved and filed sensibly yet, but I'm getting there.

The horseshoe scarf was 'finished', but then I decided it wasn't good enough either at its tails or at the outer edge. So I'm restarting it, mostly adding more ease to the outer edge.

Stripes and blocks French Terry cardi.  I took ages with the layout and working out how to support a front fastening in this very soft fabric. The answer - a secret band of duck fabric on the inside. I'm pleased with how it's turned out. Just needed to sew the buttons on and give it a test wear - but I'm going to count it as a June finish.

Me Made May running into June. In the North of England our daytime temperatures are not often reaching 20 degrees - which is OK by me. But it has meant that only some of the hot weather clothing has been worn for a full day. No surprises - though doing the Me Made May test did get me to revisit a failed dress from last year. 

Repairs and alterations 

The blue Island print dress was revisited, and the back neckline tightened up. That fixed the backward slide that affects many of my existing garments. This fixed the uneven waistline and the uncomfortable armscye.  I also revisited the skirt length, and took a 3/4" tuck to improve the proportions.

 As part of the Me Made May review,  I'm still trying to deal with the armpit wedgie. For example  have let out the two white jersey tees to their limits

Some of DH's trousers have a metal popper, and while not defective, he feels insecure. 

So I've added a button and buttonhole (Hand stitched as the machine isn't co-operating with this thick fabric. )

The blue M&S canvas trousers don't have a high enough rise for my posture/bone structure. So I've added 1/2“ with some seam binding at cf between waistband and zip. That mostly relieves the pressure.

Replaced binding on the rtw money/passport belt (from fair trade shop). It's at least 30 years old and well patched, but a secure fit and barely noticeable under clothing, so I'll use it should I ever go abroad again.

The me-made money belt has found a surprising use. My phone fits in it, but not in my trouser pocket. Perfect for a community outdoor activity where bags are left centrally. I replaced the perished elastic - a knot took up the slack the first day. If I ever make another, a train ticket pocket would be nice. 

Woodland print tee, charity shop find, was actually big enough at high hip, but too large at neckline and shoulders. Now better, but still not as good as Me-Made. 

Remaining UFO's  in the queue

• The horseshoe scarf - surely it won't take long to reknit, now that I've had so much 'practice'.
•  Talvi jumper (sweater) though I'm unhappy with the tension with this yarn, and may start again.
• The bag from last year's sewing course.

Then I get to decide my priorities for Q3 :)

 

2022 May - mostly small steps forwards

What got finished:

Stopped tinkering with the sage green French Terry jacket. It drapes better now and has been worn with only positive comments from friends and acquaintances. Perhaps I'm being fussy when I would like it 1/2" longer and with smoother sleeves.

Knitted seat belt padding. I rarely travel by car. However, being a petite person, when I do, seat belts catch on my neck. DD took me to Anglesey to try see Puffins, and we did see an Osprey, a wild Peregrine, some seals and lots and lots of lovely creatures, plants and scenery. A 5" by 3" rectangle, plus a band with two button holes, helped a lot. 

Updated the croquis. New photos, and a new tracing of my outline, which is diverging even further from the 'standard' templates. Used the croquis to work out the stripe placement on a planned cardi*. And to see whether it was worth altering a tee shirt with an added band - I prefer with, but not enough to risk spoiling what I have.

*Amazing DD and DH replanned the outward journey to our holiday cottage once they knew there was an even bigger branch of a fabric shop en-route. Three cuts of fabric and some haberdashery were added to our luggage.

Repairs and alterations As part of the Me Made May review,  apart from assorted tiny repairs, I was mostly trying to deal with the armpit wedgie which I think is due to my increasing upper spine curvature.

Tea pot print shirt. Released a vertical dart into a pleat, much more comfy.

White plissé Freya. Let out at junction of armscye and sleeve seam. 

Paisley Freya. Used seam allowances to add 1/8" x4 at notch height.  However, until friction soreness from the weekend subsides, it's not useful to tinker more. 

Paisley Mica. Permanently stitched the hem. 

Slow knitting: 

Talvi sleeves are progressing slowly, horseshoe scarf even more slowly. I'm optimistic about both, but am sewing more than knitting this month, and am joining in with a community outdoor project. 

And now I've got some oomph back, there's a backlog of household tasks, mostly just cleaning and fixing up, to do. 

Me Made May 2022 - How are we doing?

This year for Me Made May I attempted  to bring out appropriate items for my May activities, prioritising Me-Made or significantly refitted, and assess them after a full day's wear.   

Temperatures have been in mid to high teens most of the month, so hot weather clothes will have to wait to be assessed in June. Unusually this month, I made several long car journeys as a passenger, fell asleep sitting, and  my underarms became quite tender - could have been any of my layers or the seat belt. I may have falsely accused some garments as the discomfort lasted a few days. 

The summary of what I wore and what I found is probably more useful than the details. Here goes:

 

Things that I've worn in May, and reach for all the time 

Me Made Tees. Long sleeves. Slightly scooped or high V. Length just above low hip - though I get some use from tees 6" below waist. Lighter colours will be better once the sunny days arrive. Some tees are tired-looking, one has shrunk and could do with an underarm gusset if I can find the scraps. Verdict: Make more. 

Sturdy trousers. The thick cotton blue camo fabric from Leeds Market is perfect for walking in spiky vegetation and in most weather. If you know the Southport tide range, you'll get the joke about hi-vis beach wear. 

Verdict: Make more. (My fitting has improved since I made these)

 

Joggers. Me made sage French Terry pair, very comfy though a little short. Can I add cuffs? One thin Rtw pair, unaltered, terrible drape at back but good range of motion and doesn't chafe anywhere - worn regularly for tai chi. Two thick Rtw pairs with added fabric between high hip and waistband, need a long top to cover the too visible alterations but no longer chafe. Worn all winter and at beginning of May.

Verdict: Ready to make more - I've pattern tested using thin poly/silk paisley Jersey, but it's been too cold to give them a full day trial. 

Eccentric me-made semi-fitted trousers. Two pairs from a damaged border print duvet, intended as pattern testing, but so comfy I wore them lots last summer.

Not tested yet this year: me made wool silk trousers from vintage gifted suiting. These were lovely in the heat last year, and whilst I can get a better drape with the now-updated pattern, I'll keep these until they wear out. 

Verdict:  Make more in linen (already bought) and more in the inherited suiting fabrics for autumn/winter.

Things that I've worn in May, but reluctantly.

Long sleeved RTW woven shirts, mostly from charity shops, cut for straighter backs than mine. Despite attempted alterations, all rub at underarms. Not enough back width although shoulders too wide. Last surviving office shirt (teapot print), plaid overshirt, new-to-me check button down shirt. 

A 3/4 sleeve blue floral is looser cut, just about acceptable though I prefer full length for sun protection. 

Verdict: Keep the plaid temporarily, for medical visits - the sleeves roll up all the way. Start pattern testing an office shirt and an overshirt 

.Rtw trousers are cut for flat tums and low hip bigger than high hip. My measurements are the other way round, so choices are to buy big enough at HH and take in elsewhere, or to buy tight and too long, using excess fabric to patch in at high hip and below cf waist. Hence I occasionally dare buy from charity shops and alter. The ancient red linen pair with a yoke are just about acceptable after moving buttons, they droop a little but don't chafe too badly. The beige cotton linen pair droop, despite waistband tucks and a dart near the inseam. Blue canvas might be salvageable with an insert below front waistband. The beige linen pair with tucks in the waistband have finally given up the ghost..

Rtw Beige silk trousers (gift), shortened and taken in at waist. Sad at the back hem after many outings, but so good to wear in mild to hot weather. Does everyone have this conflict between long enough to stride out in but short enough to stand and cook in? 

Verdict: try to salvage blue canvas pair, make two replacement linen pairs that fit. Don't yet have the skills to make an equivalent silk pair. Need more practice.

Indoor/outdoor layers, every one of them reluctantly worn. At this time of year I mean cardigans or  thin jumpers (sweaters) to wear in the house in morning and evening, and to slip on against wind chill if going out. The winter ones are somewhat better.

Me made brown bomber jacket was a trial from gifted flawed baize - not intended as a garment fabric at all. It's comfy, has a fastenable opening at centre front, and is a good weight for a spring cardi or summer jacket. Although it's been worn loads of times, I'm always aware of the poor finishing from three years ago, and the visible flaw in the sleeve. 

Emergency purchase when away from home, old RTW boxy burgundy rib swamps me at shoulders and arm length but was smallest size that went over high hip. Despite restitching sleeves with double turned cuff so my hands show, it still feels like the least bad of a poor bunch, all that was available at that point in the retail cycle.

Grey workwear fleece, sleeves shortened and underarms eased. Although good fabric and the same size looked great on my colleague, this never fitted me well. The zip finally died this May, and I'm not going to replace it.

Ancient black thin fleece pj top, worn as sweater. 21.5" wide at back underarm, 20" around armholes. Loose enough not to rub, fitted enough not to bury me. Good indoors, black is too hot in sun. 

Recent trial cardi, rescued sage French Terry from failed boxy jacket. Nice fabric, not a bad fit, but I feel meh in it, The hang of the patchworked sleeves maybe? Or just my attitude to too many attempts with this material?

Verdict: keep trying based on sage trial cardi. I have a leftover that will probably do a trial bodice and another for a trial sleeve. Then some thinner French Terry for a summer layer if that test is successful.

 And the supporting stuff... 

The waterproof coat is cold when wet, remember to take an underlayer. 

Showerproof coat will do another year, but I'd prefer deeper armholes. 

Plenty of knicks and socks - have disposed of some worn ones. 

One formal bra, one supportive, one much-altered and scruffy but comfy, one scratchy spare. That's enough in cold or mild weather. Worn out ones disposed of. The hot weather ones, me made or altered to have cotton front bands haven't been worn yet this year. 

Plenty of scarves, need to finish the cream horseshoe one on the needles. 

Everyday handbag and formal handbag still good. 

Recent gift of cloth bag (lovely sketch of collie) gives me enough shopping bags with right sized handles, Can get rid of the scruffy ones. Have added a zip pocket to the Swiss cheese bag for keys etc. 

Shoes: One pair formal probably OK, one pair formal to dispose of. Trainers well used but not a great fit - though I'll be extremely lucky to find a sturdy pair in half-size narrow-heel wide-front. Two pairs of sandals will probably do another year - they were good all last summer. Flip flops for summer house shoes are still good, warm slippers are put away till autumn. 

The me-made pjs are still fine, though I'd missed trimming one of the armscyes (oops), no wonder the other top was always my first choice. All the Rtw pj trousers have been altered at some stage to raise the elastic above my protruding hip bones. The llama jamas are my comfiest, with a 24" back at armscye bottom, cuffs at wrist and ankle. 

Summer dressing gown is much too tight now, but has nostalgia value so I wear it anyway. Can I add a band down the sideseams? Fluffy hoodie used as winter dressing gown is put away till autumn.

Mostly Me Made Underlayers. Me made cycling shorts for extra warmth and to reduce friction with Rtw trousers. Altered Rtw leggings with an added tummy panel are ok when all shorts are in the wash. I'm homing in fitting a camisole underlayer - this year's are a better fit, however the plissé leftovers are a bit bulky under mild weather clothes. Verdict: Make more.