2025 March. Finish No 2. TDCO trial garment.

The story so far? In January, took measurements using a WIDE paper strip, which led to cutting out a bigger size than usual. Prepped a temporary waistband, just a little narrower than the recommended since I don't have a flat front, anywhere. Snipped seam allowance above most prominent places - I was surely going to need shaping at high hip. Prepped worn-out sheet and pattern, New Look 6130. 

In February, started with the one legged muslin, getting a first approximation to front and back rise, to side seam ease at high and low hip, and to dart length and position. Lots of attempts - I'm new to this - and struggled to get enough sitting ease without too much jodphur effect on the outer thigh. I thought it a case of too tight at high hip rather too loose further down. Partway through adding the second leg (after carefully calculating circumference/s) realised I'd misread the seam allowance on the long seams. Had to restitch wider seams, and rework the rise and the darts.

 

Tried to add a little to the back upper leg extension for sitting room, however that sagged and rubbed when standing and walking, so didn't keep that change. 

Restitched the first leg and joined the two to get a feeling for torso fit. Indeed, there was pressure on the spine and belly, 

And in March? After a lot of what-if-ing, I departed from the method, in order to move fabric towards my centre front, which isn't flat. I angled out the straight bit of the seam, adding a tiny dart each side of the tum to restore size at waist. My swayback needed a similar treatment with tiny darts either side of the spine. 

Learned something from the way the fabric drapes below the tiny darts, it flows away from the body below the points. With this insight I rejigged all the darts, including the sideseam curve which falls on a flattish part of my hip. 

Also clipped the scoop to the full 5/8" seam allowance, which makes a difference. Previously I'd cautiously only clipped 1/2". Surprisingly more sitting room for such a small change. 

Shortening the back dart also helped sitting ease without disturbing the standing fit too much. 

At this point, I was ready to try slightly better fabric. I'd inherited some blue and cream woven cotton(?) with irregularly spaced stripes. The wrong side reads as chambray from a distance. Vertical placement would inform the fit, and I chalked the horizontal balance lines on. They don't show in the photos, but did in a mirror. The waistband in slightly narrower again, 1¼“ finished width. 

Once the legs were stitched, I finessed the darts, and fixed my iffy attempt at lengthening the legs from cropped on a tall person to long on a petite.

 

On a whim, I wondered how much ease I could pin out at side seam, low hip and along the leg length, straightening below the knee. Surprisingly, a scant quarter inch evened out the ease, and was actually easier to sit in than the less-than-fully-clipped scoop yesterday. 

Am I worried about departing from the TDCO method? Yes, although my particular shape with high hip bigger than low hip isn't discussed for this or any method. Justification? I've catered for about an inch at high hip by changing the angle of cf and cb above the scoop, so it's probably valid to lose a total of an inch at crotch height. There are still 2" extra at that height compared to my low hip measurement, to account for overhang from the tum. I'll keep that change.

 

What else to say? 

Pleased with my waistband finishing, with the bias bound scoop, and with the totally bogus fly. 

I still don't fill the garment at the knees, but don't dare take anything away at upper leg, or much away at calf.  Maybe compare lower leg shapes with other patterns now I have a decent knee line marked, or reluctantly think about stretch fabric another time. 

A bonus. I've already used the temporary waistband to correct the elastic position on last year's joggers

I'm pausing the project now because of a minor health problem, a soft tissue issue in my foot is affecting posture. And because a little weight loss is likely to help my stability. But in the meantime, these thin pants are much comfier than any Rtw I have, and I'm alternating between them and a long skirt while the weather is mild

2025 March, Finish No 1, reknitting Teal jumper

Finished reknitting (yoke and sleeve caps) 

The story so far? Pattern was the Talvi Knits Moss Green sweater, and I had made it up in teal Aran. It had stretched during several winters across the shoulders, and had become uncomfortable. I partly wanted to keep it as an everyday jumper (no longer pristine, but not scruffy housework condition yet) and partly wanted to work out my own shape for future knitwear. The A-line sideseam shaping gave enough clearance for my hip crests, the garter stitch band at low hip de-emphasised my rounded tum. Sleeves are a good length and width. The garter stitch cuffs add an unobtrusive detail. Those sections are worth keeping. 

In January, I unpicked the top 8-10", and washed the yarn to get some of the crinkles out. In February the yoke was offset a couple of stitches towards the front (3 would have been even better), decreasing above shoulder blades to account for my curvature, and to give correct narrow shoulders for me. I also sloped the shoulders more by decreasing in three sections rather than the original two. 

This month proved to be trickier. I'd interpreted the pattern as needing more rows than stated at the back. Then found the front too short, and had to add four more rows. Of course, this was discovered after picking up and knitting the neckline. Wish I had also lowered the scoop two rows, but the yarn was getting tired, as was I. 

The real fun began when setting in the sleeves. Apart from one short row to compensate for forward sloping shoulders, they were knitted and measured to match the scyes. But once attached and all the ends sewn in - lots of ends with reused yarn of course - the caps weren't high enough, and the shoulder seams were dragged downwards at yoke edges. 

I'm still not sure whether the issue was those extra rows at back and front. Or whether because I measured obliquely along the slope and then attached rows pairwise at the selvedge. Whichever, I needed another half inch height. Since I had to carefully cut and unpick the stitching at top of the sleeve caps, and then the cast-off edge, I took the chance to round off the caps. The extra rows were added on the decrease every two rows section, narrowing the cast off edge by 4 stitches. Then, because I could see how the cap wasn't quite filling the gap, I chose to do one more decrease row. That's more Me-shaped. 

The all-day wear test has been a success. 

I might at some stage add a label or a button to help getting dressed, since the neckline is warm and high, I have to think about which is the front. 

2025 Jan Feb, progress but nothing completely done

2025 January February summary.

For 2025, I'd told myself that I'd try to do a few stitches on something every day. The prompt is 'you enjoy it once you start'. And apart from one day when there really was a higher priority, I have moved forward a little on one or other project, and enjoyed it. 

Not exactly the projects as I'd sketched them out, and not much is finish-finished, but lots of learning. 

The woven top S6614 did get the shoulder point moved in, then got put away because I need trousers sooner than a summer top. It's a useful delay, because the trousers' photos have give me an insight onto how far towards the waist my sloping shoulders propagate. A three quarter view from the back is instructive. There's sometimes extra soft tissue in the area between bra band and natural waist, depending on where my arms are. (Tucking tee into bra band to photograph back waist really emphasises above waist area.)

The TDCO trial is teaching me a lot. The summary is that, once the rise is adjusted for me, and standing, I can use a much more conventional shape than I imagined. Cut a bigger size than my low hip suggests, straighten the hip area below the crest, and shorten the back dart. The process has fixed the twist below knee I find in RTW and my previous me-mades. Sitting, the pressure is on the spine curve and belly button area. I haven't done the final tweaks on the two legged toile yet, but this is already much better than RTW and I think better than last year's linen pair. 

Reknitting my teal Talvi jumper from the armscye up. Well, apart from the yarn remaining quite curly after skeining and washing, it seems to be going well. Back is done, front needs one more shoulder, sleeve caps are paused an inch from the top in case back needs to be longer than the front. Hope to finish in March. 

And the granny squares. Hmm. Got diverted by a puzzle about Fibonnaci numbers into making squares with sides 1, 2, 3, 5, 8...blocks, with the intention of joining them into a golden spiral 18" square (which would have been fine for the community project) Only when joining did I realise that A) it needs to be mattress stitched to emulate the interlocked rounds B) you have two spaces at the end of each side, so they were actually proportioned 1.5, 2.5, 3.5 etc to each other. Never going to work. Then our knitting group was asked to contribute squares to the Southport Bear Parade. Most of mine were sent to cover bears at our favourite cafe. However I resized a few up or down to 6" and they may still get to the Art Gallery next month. I'm coming to the conclusion anyway that my crochet tension is wrong for Granny Squares bigger than this. They get baggy above 9" or so. That's also useful learning. 

So, where are we for March?

Finish Talvi jumper. If OK, do the same ish refit to Finchdale jumper which has had fewer wears and is in a better condition. 

Continue with TDCO fitting. Transfer high leg and spine changes to flat pattern. Can I improve undertum area? Investigate preferred fit for both wide-ish ankle/foot  and for narrow ankle/foot. 

I must get on with the sofa/chair covers, the plain cream is looking scruffy even when newly washed, other coverings are too disparate. 

    

2025 What next?

Thinking about design lines, I took some time this January to sketch my top 4 garments as silhouettes on my croquis*. Used colours which are favourites in my wardrobe. Tidy tee, jumper (sweater), collared shirt, trousers, and joggers cover 90% of my clothing needs, provided I vary the fabric. Think wool or linen trousers for the office, canvas for walking, cotton or silk for summer in town ... 

I have patterns in these basic shapes that already fit better than ready to wear. I'm only an improver, though. I'm still trying to get the right balance between style ease (how does it look) and movement ease (how does it cope with daily life) 

Here's the evidence of how far I have to change basics to fit my petite pear shaped frame, with forward-tilting hip crests. 

In 2025, I want to continue refining these basics. My tee pattern is tidy but could do with 1/8" tweaks before I experiment with necklines; my knit jumper pattern needs work at the armscye and neckline; the woven top hasn't yet evolved into a collared shirt; the woven trousers are the best fit in decades but I notice a leg twist; joggers are a little long and could be improved by a pseudo-curved elastic at the front. 

I've added a below knee skirt to my basics wishlist and sketches but will probably not get round to it this year. 

So, to turn aspirations into achievements, let's prioritise existing projects:

Alter woven top trial garment S6614 at shoulder point, then make another simplified version, maybe do trousers first for a better sense of curves around waist and hip. 

Reknit my teal Talvi jumper from the armscye up. 

Replace at least one of the older plain tees. 

And a new project, try TDCO trouser fitting method, starting with a tracing of the simplest pattern in my collection. 

And as a grab bag when out and about, a couple of foot square panels of granny squares. 

There'll be other small projects, of course. For example I only have one decent sunhat, summer joggers need replacing... The jacket project may have to wait for 2026.

* croquis, an outline of a body shape. Having no claims to artistic ability, I traced a photo to get my own proportions. Commercial offerings are available but I haven't tried them. 

2024 roundup

 Happy New Year 2025

It's been a busy 2024 for family, for work and for non-crafty projects. For instance, I refreshed my schoolgirl Spanish to accompany DH to an event in November. And to be honest, when I look at my clothing, it generally serves it's purpose better than when I "retired" six years ago.

I have about 50 indoor items of clothing now, that is tops, bottoms, dresses and cardigans, mostly me-made or altered to fit better. I like all the colours and most of the styles. However there are a few gaps, some are getting ready for replacement, and the jury is still out on whether to keep, say, more than two skirts or short sleeved tops. Overall, though, it's about the right amount for my lifestyle.

And how did I do with 2024 plan?

Cycle shorts in bright yellow as an underlayer and a cami in Monet jersey finished, a constellation-print shirt S9210 for H. Adapted a charity shop denim skirt to fit me, however I find the walking slit cold so it may not stay long in my wardrobe. The woven shirt/top has had a couple of attempts, but still nothing finished that I'm happy with. Formal dress, woven shirt, office trousers, summer joggers and my mouse-fabric waistcoat didn't get to the top of the list. I've started dreaming of a coat, however a sewn cardi and/or jacket would be good practice.

As well as the planned items, in 2024 I sewed one pair of stretchy trousers in antique gold ponte, one tee in  Monet jersey, and two rectangle skirts one in mustard and one burgundy. Knit one Hermia cardigan in Mallard merino, a Manx loaghtan yarn hat, and brown merino wrist warmers all for me.  Some extra knitting for  presents: merino legwarmers for H, a beanie for K, a mustard aran hat for E.  Community arts contributions: poppies, granny squares, and cafe decorations. Plus the usual hats and booties to give away. Fails? The chicken-print Betty neckline was not a success, nor the L shaped scarf due to fabric choice. The usual ongoing repairs have been done, and some rarely worn garments brought back into use, mostly be letting out at the waist and high hip. DH's old work wear fleece was delogo-ed and is in use again. Some small knit items were reknit or extended and are better now.

I've bought a number of charity shop items to try, of which a couple have been altered, the white floral shirt significantly refitted. Several garments were donated back as too far from my own shape or other needs, but that's ok occasionally - it's been interesting to try. Unfortunately I've had to part with some old favourites, either worn out or because they've become too tight at lower shoulder blade height.

The fitting programme inches forward. I have trouser and tee patterns, cami and cycle shorts, however the joggers still need a better waist treatment.  I'm  actively working on the woven top again, having abandoned B8957 for the Betty, then found S6144 is better (tighter scyes so more movement ease) at the shoulders. Over the last week, I've unpicked the 2021 Talvi jumper ready to reknit up from the underarms.  

What else crafty? Reading blogs. Watching historical and fitting videos. Clothing and stash sifts. Two lots of inherited stuff sorted and absorbed or rehomed. 

FFFF directions: A long essay in my diary about Function and Fit by garment type is in my November/December diary. I think my Finishing is improving - certainly my cutting and marking have*. Not so much Fun added to the clothing because the chicken print failed. And because I need more plains to balance the prints I have. Does it count that I've had fun trying or rediscovering techniques?

* I'm starting to be confident to use decent yarn for myself, but need to do the same with decent fabric now that Fit and Finishing are better.

Overall, I can definitely count myself a Crafty Little Mouselet for 2024. 

Wonder what will happen in 2025? 

2024 November and December

The main activity while away at the beginning of November was planning. I wanted to think (again) about what needs I am meeting. Geeks know this as collecting functional requirements. My sewing diary now lists how many of what kinds of garments I think I need, then goes into a bit more detail. Obviously my choices are personal, depending on things like local climate (mild, damp and changeable), physique (petite, proportions far from standard, sensitive to cold and sun) and residence (little drying or storage space). Chattered about which patterns I started with, all fairly ordinary since I'm only an improver as far as fitting is concerned. Many of them are now out-of-print. However similar basic ones are easily found. I've been better in the last few years about taking photos of makes and acquisitions (analysis of existing system), so I hope that will inform my next specific sewing goals. 

Knitting 

Finished H's new legwarmers, made from the overbought Mallard merino. Two balls make a pair about 10". She wore them moments after they were given, and I've seen her in them several times since :) 

The Mallard Hermia cardigan was very slowly completed. Decided to do a folded hem since a rib emphasises my overhang. Finished grafting the hems just into December. Buttons had been chosen (on holiday in Spain) and the band, with all those stitches to pick up, just in time to wear on Christmas day. 

Sewing. Thought I might make progress towards a woven top, even in winter, by rough fitting  over a long sleeved tee. Vintage Simplicity 6614 size 14½ was the plainest woven dress in my pattern collection, A half size (37" bust) dress with a back zip, two long back darts, and a French dart at the front. Wasn't expecting much from the first version. Would you believe it? It's an improvement on my hard-won Betty in the shoulder and armscye area. V1 was fitted downwards, pretty good to empire line, not too bad to waist, not enough fabric from previous toile to go over my high hip. V2 continued down to top of leg, adapted to hang a bit straighter at low hip since I intend a top. and was tweaked by 1/8" here and there higher up  Like the V1 sheeting, the V2 gingham was third-use fabric. After an hour's V2 test wear, I'd like a smidge more movement ease in biceps and lower shoulder blades. But I am really pleased with how it drapes on me, and that the grain lines are right. I've started tracing the adjusted pattern ready for v3. 

Repairs done. 

De-velcro-ed a baseball cap after it ate my sunscreen scarf. Well,  the said cap will be donated to DH who tans, since the side of my own face burnt anyway. 

Tightened up plaid pj sleeve and leg hems. Not sure I like the look of the now lantern legs, but they can be unpicked if need be. Warmer and less of a trip/spill hazard now. 

Ancient V-neck white tee, added sideseam darts to help shoulder fit.  Same change to an old Freya, which rubs less than it did at front scye. 

Tighten up grey pj sleeves, they were letting the draughts in. 

The pink fleece pj trousers had their elastic snipped, Happened to be wearing them when taking a fitting photo of Simplicity 6614. No wonder I rarely choose them when the cb was so hungry. They needed an elastic scrap, about 3", inserting for an even waist.

Chose not to do:

Another Betty pattern test, because Simplicity 6614 feels better in shoulder area, and is more fitted. I'll continue with that for now. 

Replace oldest cycle shorts, because I realised I can use some of my pieced or cropped trouser toiles as loose linings for trousers. 

New arrivals: 

A purple (charity shop) quilted coat. It keeps cold and rain out well enough, but swamps me above high hip. I really do need to work up towards coat construction. Oh no! Realised I wore this, when rushing for a train on a wet day, with a red hat that doesn't go. Not that I dressed soberly in my youth. 

Denim skirt. For a western themed event. Well, I can't run for a bus in it, but it's OK for mild weather. Let out half an inch at each front high hip, and hangs much better, and no longer creeps up my waist throughout the day. . 

Cowboy hat, was definitely for this event only. Returned to the charity shop soon after. 

    

2024 mid-and and late- October

Between too many treats (concert tickets, walks and lunches out) and peak demand from my non-crafty project, there were just a few days mid-month where I had sewing-sized gaps in the schedule. 

Knitting can be done in shorter sessions. Although the Mallard cardi just needs split hem completing, and a button band on, it's been kicked down the list by a request from H for legwarmers - she is down to her last pair. She is fitter than me, and needs 5 extra 4 stitch ribs around her calves compared with her ankles. I, who only run for trains and buses, need only 3 extra. She has chosen the Mallard merino leftovers. The first is done up to the last few rows at the top, and the second cast on ready to take on a journey later this month. 

As the warmer weather clothes get put away, I notice the older long sleeve tees are looking less than pristine. Not quite ready for recycling, however I dug out my best pattern, a much modified Tilly and the Buttons Freya tee. Used more of the Monet-esque blue floral poly to make 2024 v1, tweaked another 1/4" at armscye and neckline. I really like the fit now. It works with navy trousers, and also with the thin dragonfly-print royal blue trousers, made 2017 ish. Wouldn't usually wear two prints together, but think I can get away with these. 

Repairs done. 

Green seeds-print tank, 2018 ish, had been altered to fit, but some discomfort from squared off binding enclosed in the sideseam. I had just enough to butt up the binding slightly offset. Not the prettiest join, but now much softer and flatter. Comfy enough now to sleep in or wear all day.

A general check for popped seams. Causes? Forgetting to switch to zigzag on stretch fabrics. Older tees need more front armscye scoop and less at back (pattern now corrected) Laundry issue - arm or leg stitching can pop when extracting a too tightly packed load from washing machine,  remember to use a net bag. 

Household: Deep cleaned inside tumble dryer - including new-to-me lint hiding place. Deep cleaned sewing machine. 

 

For next month? I'm enjoying wearing the Manx loaghtan hat, but it would look even better with an oak leaf attached. 

Reknit two year old Talvi teal jumper with stretched out neckline?

One more Freya tee? A sewn fleece or French terry cardi? 

Revisit waist treatment on joggers, make another pair? 

The pillowcase Betty from last month is really comfortable. Can I find a better match for the yoke pieces, and get at least some wear from it? 

We'll see how much time I actually get! 

    

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