Tuesday 4 January 2022

2022 plan. Well, some thoughts.

 Lots of ideas for 2022. Some of these will happen, and depending what life throws at us, new opportunities could queue jump. Every year I aspire to complete items from the queue, polish my techniques, improve my fitting, and learn lots of new things. These are not SMART goals, but saying them out loud helps me choose projects that will take me in the right direction.

In no particular order.

Service sewing machine - the engineer suggests March.


Using up, adapting or finishing off:

Small amounts of yarn/handbag size projects. I don't think there are many leftovers that go together, either in weight or colour, so it'll have to be small items. Maybe see what the Community Centre can donate to the the Foodbank recipients - small hats and gloves, squares for blankets, small scarves, toddler cardis?

Refit green boxy jacket - will a cowl improve it?

Finish summer handbag from last year's course.

Grey workwear zipped top sleeves - cut off frayed bit above thumbholes, elasticate at my arm length, and use scraps to increase hip circumference.

Revisit the fitting shell project. There are still some sheeting scraps, and some inherited floral polyester lengths unlikely to find a home.


Wardrobe holes:

More long sleeved t-shirts. Probably bigger Freyas (Tilly and the Buttons book) or Tulip Tees (Patterns for Pirates)

Formal-ish dress to replace double jersey Freya (now too small)

Another pair less informal trousers. There are some nice inherited suiting lengths waiting. And a nice shirt length that goes with the linen.

A denim skirt or pinafore - the fabric piece is not quite long enough for jeans.

More cycling shorts as undertrousers, maybe wear them under the denim skirt.

Pattern test and make up the mouse quilting fabric waistcoat. 

More masks. There might also be ear savers, knitted to convert our few purchased masks to a ties. That way they'll sit round my neck between shops.

Knit a second jumper from the much altered Talvi knits Moss Green Sweater pattern. Enter all my notes onto the pattern first, maybe chart it out.

Replace at least one pair of tired joggers.


Possible gifts:

Waistcoat for DD, for next winter.


And quirky fun things:

Even better fitted legwarmers/footless socks , especially if they'll bring the denim skirt into use in colder weather.


Sunday 2 January 2022

Looking backwards to 2021

As many people have found, the days since the pandemic began have been slow, but the weeks have disappeared. Its been quite reassuring to look back on 2021 and see that I actually worked on forty-odd new sewn or knitted items, plus a selection of fixing up tasks. Plus some household and work-related projects that I'm not going to blog about.

Here's an overview, quite a varied selection. 


2021-01 and 2021-02 Donated Hat project. 

This was a destash/learning project - each hat had a different brim, stand, and/or crown, done on the machine, or finished knit or crochet. All the samples, about a dozen, were donated to our local Lifeboat Charity shop. 

I also aimed either to become as confident on the Prym Maxi 44 as on the Addi Express 22 Circular Knitting Machine, or to donate the Prym machine. Unfortunately, the Prym machine died during this process, so the aim was not achieved. I have in mind to acquire a Sentro 48 or similar, or maybe even an Addi 46, though I'm enjoying hand knitting at the moment so will delay that for now.

44 stitches around was only large enough for a newborn. My favourites were was a beanie shape 8-section crown on a tube, stitches lying vertically, k2p2 rib to finish. Though should ever I want to make lots (at the moment most maternity units are not accepting donations) the cat's ear hat, made from an 80 row x 19 stitch panel, approx 13" x 8" long, is a good one.

The blockhead hat (tube around head, square crown) was quick and competant, but likely to be too bulky for babies and too warm for our UK climate. The three panel shaped pointy hat was too quirky even for me. And I kept coming back to a ribbed edging/brim for warmth and security.  My attempts at crochet embellishments or duplicate stitching were unsuccessful. Don't know if it was because the yarns were a little thin for the needles, or because I'm not as accurate with a tapestry needle as when my eyes were younger. Whichever, I need to keep things simple.

2021-03 and 2021-04  I'm desperately short of well-fitting t-shirts. Last year's Freya tops are all becoming tight, and anyway have rather high necklines for the summer. So a Patterns for Pirates Tulip Tee made from mystery knit bought at Abakhan, probably viscose, cream background with showering gradient of dots in dark soft peach and brown. Probably my most worn make of the year.

2021-03 and 2021-04. I'm unlikely to wear cycle shorts as outerwear, but wanted to try Patterns for Pirates peg legs under skirts. Used the much reduced thin splodgy print fabric from Leeds market remaining from trial Freyas. I made two pairs, worn as planned on cooler summer's days, and also under trousers this autumn and winter. Cut a medium, but added height and width to the tum.

2021-03. Burda 2020/6 128 adapted Men's hawaiian shirt. Two long sleeved pj tops from an old duvet cover. Whilst the collar was difficult (got better with practice) it was lovely to wear. Initially as pattern test before cutting into my birthday present to myself - the makings of a hawaiian shirt. It's quilting fabric but who could resist tiny harvest mice on ears of barley? Just squeaked out the pieces  - forgot to check fabric width when buying.  It was even good enough for DD to request her own hawaiian shirt, made 2021-06 in carp fabric from Croft Mill.

2021-04 sage joggers, took 41" of 60" wide cotton French Terry. Much battered pj trousers pattern, Successful Sewing 8 jogger pattern, already old when I bought it at a school fair in the nineties. Reduced the extra thigh width and crotch length to a size 14 (The pjs at 16 are fine for sleeping, would be terrible for walking outside.) For this version, I've kept the grown on casing, but have cut out uncuffed.  I'm very happy with the fit, feels nice to wear in mild weather, not quite as warm as the RTW acrylic joggers I use in winter. Unfortunately it shows every mark - including water splashes. 

2021-05 Another P4p Tulip Tee in white Mercerised cotton jersey from Croft Mill. Made up beautifully, but shrank a little with repeated washing, so is my less favoured of the two. 

Repair and alteration round 2021-06 after me-made May assessments.

Rustic shirt in soft pale green textured fabric used to make rustic shirt. Cut and attached bigger cuffs. 

Hanging loop added to DH's summer hat.

Cream linen trousers; adjusted waistband, let out existing tucks and repleated.

Peg leg shorts. Tight at hem,  graded inseams to 1/4" seam allowances.

White Tulip tee. Gave myself an extra 3 mm both at underarm, as close to clipped seam as I dared, and maybe 5mm at shoulder.  

2021-06  I have no informal skirts or dresses. A trip to Abakhan Preston yielded a cactus viscose woven and blue poplin sea/island scape. There were few light fabrics left in this heat!

Cactus tiered skirt fitted well, but the viscose crumpled like mad after washing and during wear.

Underskirt from two pillowcases. Tweaking the pattern for the cactus skirt. This iteration was not so full, so no noticeable drop at the side seams. I actually wear it some for around-the-house jobs, as trousers irritate the back of my knees if kneeling for a while. 

2021-06 harvest mouse quilting cotton sun hat. Initially printed from Wild Things or maybe ICare (both Wild Ginger Software) Adapted a few years ago in my size for less waste (crown fits inside brim, the stand curves to allow this). Plus a second sun hat from the scraps of the two pillowcases, using the embroidered motif, for when the mice hat is in the wash.

2021-06 cactus shirt Using Burda "Kimono" shirt 115 2020/6. Although I eventually handled the piecing, misprinted sleeve, and the fitting challenges, when paired with the tiered skirt I felt like a guest at an eighties wedding. It was eventually binned - unusually for me - because the piecing and alterations were too thick and scratchy. And the stitching popped the first day I wore it - maybe it wasn't designed for cleaning high cupboards in.

2021-06 and 2021-07 More masks*. Tried the OonaBalloona diamond shaped mask, which makes good use of smaller scraps - the seams are not near the nose and mouth. Once I'd got the sizing right, the fit is closer than some of the other ones. DD prefers pleated masks, so she got the leftovers from her hawaiian shirt. I got a scrunchie out of the scraps.  I've really improved cutting, marking and steering since my first mask efforts eighteen months ago. *My own favourite to wear is the Dhurata Davies, with a dart at chin and top of the nose, and ties. The medium fits me well. DH likes pleated ones in large, to fit over his beard, and ear elastics. 

2021-07 Cactus NL6217 top. This is a basic woven drop shoulder almost sleeveless top, which I've tried twice before. This time I feel I've really improved the fit. Though I barely wore it once our minor heatwave ended. Partly because it wrinkles like mad, and not in a good way. And partly a rash on my arms meant I preferred longer sleeves this year.

2021-07 6406 unbranded pattern, blue seascape cotton. The sold-as-seen remnant had a long printing flaw repeated along the whole yardage but I managed to cut out OK. Fitting was a nightmare. I eventually managed to get something wearable, but I don't love it. Too short at the front below the bust, and fabric slightly too firm for all these gathers. Has been worn gratefully during the heatwave, but not when the normal British mild weather returned.

2021-07 Laela Jeyne Mica Tee.  Not bad after making my usual flat pattern adjustments, though the V-neck wasn't great. When I channelled my inner Terry Pratchett and padded it with socks, I realised I needed a small bust adjustment just above armpit height as well as a full bust adjustment at my bust height. So the second version is better. The white version shrank a little after repeated washing (same fabric as the P4p Tulip Tee) so the cream spotty print is my favoured one.

2021-08 My summer bras are now mostly too small, and I prefer a breathable underbust band even if it's not stretchy. Years ago, I had some success with a cotton bra (much adapted cups) based on http://www.vavoomvintage.net/p/va-voom-bullet-bra-sew-along-and-free.html so I tried again. It's fine around the house and for a daytime nap, but does tend to wardrobe malfunction when I raise my arms. (Can I elasticate just the back another time?)

2021-08 and -09 Repair round

Shortened mens 32w,33 inside leg cords to 29". They're not a bad shape on me, but I lost them to DH.

M&S cotton/linen twill cropped pants, UK size 16. Right size, but wrong shape. Thin enough to put tucks in the waistband to fit me. Undid the cuff stitching to drop the hem by two inches - that fixed the 'neither cropped nor left alone' feel on a garment cut for someone taller than me. 

Ancient barely worn Primark bra. I'd already stitched an extra set of eyes at the back, but it still marked my front ribs and side bust. For my flared ribcage, added 1.5" of plush elastic at cf. My side bust is still sore from a biopsy, so added 3/4" of plush elastic to top as close as possible to the back straps. No longer distressing to wear, but I've never ever found a good fit!

Let down camo trousers. These were made for walking on the dunes - which are full of vicious marram grass and sea buckthorn. Although they're a good length first thing, between a few rumples and a different posture when I walk, they're an awkward, slightly too short length, when out and about. Let down the single fold hem and added a quarter inch tape to each leg (they don't match but successful raid on the scrap basket. Wore outside the same day. Appearance is better, and no more draughts round the ankles. 

Repair wheat bags. We had two large microwave "warm"s, and one small one, all of which are thin and miserable. We now have one handwarmer and one lap size.

2021-08 Mousing glove. A colleague has an intermittent rash on the palm of her hand.  It was still too early in the year to buy fingerless gloves for using her computer mouse. A few attempts with leftover t-shirting helped her.

2021-08 and 2021-09 Fitting Shell, five more trials, getting better each time, using PatternMaker 7.5 software. The starting point was a mixture of harvested measures from old macros and old printouts. Cut out from ex quilt cover, smallish remnants after discarding damaged sections and cutting two trial summer trousers. Spent time understanding the macros, and changing the rules-of-thumb for my own mature shape. Yes, the licence includes permission to use the macros, though I don't they envisaged anyone adapting them as I have. I need to restart this project, as I think I was getting close, but have gained another half stone (7 pounds, 4kg) this autumn. They're now comfy to zombie and scarecrow in, and not too baggy when standing normally or upright.

2021-08 Repurpose lap blanket to nap blanket. A lovely gift of a granny blanket was great for pulling over knees, but not quite large enough to snuggle under for a Sunday afternoon nap. Added a contrast border. Finished size 36". Took between 50g and 55g of dk acrylic to add 2 rounds tr, 2 rounds dc. I'm 5'2" tall. 

2021-09 to 2021-10 Sewing course, pattern use and design. Sefton Learning Centre, Waterloo. My finished garments were a  drop shoulder jacket based on hip measurement and a pleated tunic based on New look N6604. Certainly learnt a lot, and it was lovely to be among enthusiastic stitchers! The UFO was a self drafted bag, which is cut out and waiting for the spring.


2021-09 Repair run

Mask replacing elastic and cutting a few more.  Well elastic came from the ancient box and has stood up well considering. Read Kathleen Fasanella's advice on pleated and taped masks. But machine is too fretful to try her improvised binding attachment.

Cream cotton/linen M&S trousers had lost their hem thread in the washer. Restitched.

Broken button on purple plaid winter shirt replaced.

Darn DH's breast pocket on his blue and white check shirt. If he likes it enough, that is. I'd rather replace since the fabric is wearing thin.

2021-10 to 2021-12 Talvi knits teal jumper (sweater). Restarted after a long break. Detailed notes are in my email. Finished in November in Nottingham, but after assessing fit unpicked sleeves and shoulders and added 2" to length. Finally finished for Christmas. 

2021-10 Primark joggers refit. A can't spoil 'em experiment. Added dark grey ribbed fabric to give extra width and height to grey joggers. This also gave me back some leg length that was stolen when the elastic walked up to the smallest part of my waist - almost at the empire line on me. Successful enough to do the same on the burgundy joggers. Though the burgundy pair had been designed as cropped on a much taller person, and still ends up just a little short on me. I suspect the scoop shape needs tweaking, but I'm happy to have improved these so much.

Useful info: when eventually obliged to shop again, front inseam to waist length needs to be a generous handspan plus a palmspan with 32" (two handspans  folded) unstretched elastic, nominally UK size 12/14. My llama pyjamas come close to this, and are comfy. If I ever do this again (and it took the best part of two hours to get that wretched waistband unpicked), I might consider making a lower, curved, waistband, with 1" elastic, and hence a smaller contrast yoke.

2021-10 to 2021-11 boxy jacket green French terry. Used the pattern drafted during the sewing course, but with a few tweaks. I'd planned to bind the edges with the last of the cactus viscose because it was a good colour match, but actually found too much of a stretch for my skills not enough stretch for the Terry. Partly I'm unhappy with the lower neckline, which I only partially rescued from a cutting error. Partly the French Terry 'sticks' to my cotton long sleeves, so it hasn't been a great fabric choice. And partly because I'm unhappy with the lower binding, which isn't too badly applied, but a) is woven so it shows where I slightly stretched the Terry, b) rolls because knit fabric wants to roll if not matched with an opposing roll. It's sort of wearable, and I'll probably put a cowl neckline on to rescue somewhat, as suggested in Barbara Emodi's book. I don't think it will either be a favourite or donatable. I guess it's been a learning experience.

2021-10 Top down hat, knitted in Hayfield Spirit dk 0401 - blues greens and greys.  I'd wanted a handbag sized knitting project. Since I like hats that will fit in pockets, this was a good pattern and yarn weight. Some fine details noted in my diary, but not much different from last year's rainbow hat.

2021-11 repair round.

Replaced waistband button on DH's cargo pants. He would have liked a chunkier button, but the hole wasn't big enough.

Reattached press studs on brown felt bomber-ish jacket. I do like the concealed fastening, but opening the poppers does rather strain the thread.

Machine darned another breast pocket for DH. They are designed for a cigarette packet, not a heavy phone. Grrrr. 

Alter work wear, drop front underarm seam. Three years after official retirement, my hopes that I would get straighter when no longer spending hours over a keyboard are not going to bear fruit. So put in a small underarm bust dart and moved the sleeve seam down 1/4". No more red patches under arms, though still slightly uncomfy by evening.

2021-11 fingerless mitts DROPS 0-1041 'That Autumn Feeling'. Knitted in Hayfield Spirit dk 0401. Pretty well knitted to the pattern, except smaller needles and didn't like the feel of the double yarn cast on. These have been regularly worn this mild winter. (2021-12 mislaid one of the pair, and knitted another - though couldn't match the stripes a third time with the yarn leftovers. Of course the missing one turned up as soon as I finished the replacement!).

2021-12-06 Refit rtw black leggings.

These happened to be from Matalan, however I have the same problem wherever I buy leggings. Not enough fabric at tum and above tum. So added in a triangle of scrap fabric. In this size 16 pair, it was 5" long and 3" wide. Much better fit, though my stitching is a bit of a rat's nest. (¿Mouselet's nest?) 

2021-12 UFO Tigers in duplicate stitch. These two hats and the glove puppet have been lurking in the yarn box for nearly a year, each just short of a few dozen stitches. (Base was dk  rectangular panels on the small addi, doubling yarn for the stripes, duplicate stitch details.) Not a great success when done, but donatable at last

2021-12 knee length legwarmers/sock tops on Addi Pro 22 ckm. These are more like footless socks - I don't have any shoes wide enough to fit DK socks in. The trial was to find out how many extra stitches to add (using the train ticket method) and how high up the legs. I've been happy with the try-on, but we've had unseasonably mild weather this holiday, so haven't tested them for a full day yet.

2021-12 Flat panel toddler hat, two blues and a sparkle. A quick experiment using the Addi Pro 22, mattress stitch and hand knitted rib and crown. Very nice finished, but not sure it was worth the extra temporary work for a hat this size, the balance would be different on an adult hat. It gave me chance to test my Christmas present, a set of KnitPro interchangables, which I'm very pleased with on a small project.

2021-12 Crazy Ten stitch blanket, cat-sized, peach DK and planned white border. Abandoned and unpicked. This was started to use up some part balls of yarn, to practice knit joins and mitred borders. And pet blankets go from 12" squares upwards so thought I'd find a home for it. It's a shame that the centre will be the most prominent part - it's too tight and stiff. I also need to relax tension on the turning stitches, or the edges will curve gently in at the corners. I allowed myself to experiment with  a final round with log cabin corners, that worked ok.

2021-12 started Double Spiral Twelve stitch blanket, peach and white DK. Decided to mix the colours, since I had about equal amounts. And used what I learnt on the crazy version. This feels much better. Not so tight on the turns and joins, so drapes a lot better. Still need to be more even, but improving and usable. New Year's day, it's about 9" square, and will probably end up 15" which is big enough for a cat or small dog at the shelter. Not enough toning yarn for a 20" pram blanket, though.


 













2022 - a fresh start

 Hi everyone.

For 2022 I'm making a fresh start on the blog and have unpublished any old posts.  I will have no scruples about Reducing, Repairing, and Recycling content, so you may find some familiar ideas in slightly different words.

As before, it'll be almost all about sewing, knitting and other creative plans. 

Hope you find some of these ideas interesting.

Happy New Year

Mouselet.