Tuesday, 27 May 2025
Re-covering the seating
Sunday, 4 May 2025
2025 April summary. Repairs, weaving, and sofa cover. .
Monday, 3 April 2023
Attempt at visible mending
Saturday, 20 August 2022
Alterations - a slow process
DH's blue/black cotton shirt, textured with a raised diagonal, is beyond mending. The collar and cuffs have frayed, showing the white interfacing. No use making the cuffs an inch narrower, because the sleeves would be too short for him. And he dislikes grandad collars. I like both options and if I could do something with it, there'd be a partner in colour and weight for my blue/grey wool silk trousers.
First a very rough fitting. Will it fasten? With a size 16" collar it ought to. (It did.) And can I fit a yoked garment to my sloping shoulders? Pinned on the back yoke seam and similarly at the front yoke. Yes, that's ok, just adds a little fullness to the sleeve cap.
Then the battle begins, to narrow the shoulders and shorten the sleeves. If I take out the frayed section of the cuffs, that'll be one inch out of four or five needed. Taking off the 1.5" dropped shoulder looked odd - narrow caps and loads of ease at the cuffs. So took out one sleeve*, and initially marked the whole curve an inch lower. *Ripping two lines of black felled seam, it's a job for daylight.
Folded and pinned, the caps were disproportionately narrow. After a bit of experimentation, settled on 0.5" dropped shoulder, take 1" height from sleeve at armpit and shoulder point, but keep as much width as I can. That's better. Couldn't take more than an inch at underarm because the sleeves narrow downwards.
Why bother? Well mansize shoulders are much broader than mine, so the cap seam needed work anyway. For shortening, the standard procedure is to trim at the cuff, which is fine for an inch or so. For this job, on the one hand, the placket simply isn't long enough to take a 4" change. On the other hand, the placket would interfere with the drape if I cut and gathered the sleeves instead.
Rant. This was a battle with a man's shirt that I chose to fight, rather than trying to get myself to a nearby city during a bus strike. Annoyingly, as rtw gets made for taller and taller people, I find myself battling both ends of a sleeve made for women. Even then, usually the maximum I can take out without ruining the whole thing is 3", and that's often not enough. Ever wondered why I prefer to sew rather than alter?
Failed Experiment with sleeve tucks*.
I'm playing, as a can't spoil it project. But I do expect to dismantle, cut nicely, and restitch. Instead of attacking the shoulder point as I thought I might, I tried putting one inch tucks in the untouched sleeve.
It reminded me that:
- It helps to bring the cuff inside the sleeve (making a mountain fold) and press before stitching.
- One inch tucks are too big with this taper. Maybe I used 3/4" or 1/2" last time.
- Can't tuck the sleeve head (it's gotta be at least as big as the armscye) or the placket. The taper angle will be different on the tucked sections.
Not at all a success. Lots of volume at bust height. I don't care enough to try shoulder pads to balance. I may photo for the gallery of shame. This attempt will be unpicked.
* I got away with this technique a few years ago on a poplin floral ex-office shirt. Not one of the three relatives I visited, all better dressmakers than myself, noticed anything wrong. Phew!
Can we get more fabric below back yoke?
Thinking I've been taking the right steps, but not necessarily in the right order. I unpicked the sloping shoulder adjustment, and patched in a ribbon under the yoke line for a round back adjustment. My estimate of one inch made a huge difference to comfort round the collar.
Unfortunately, I hadn't pinned my hair up in the before photo, so can't be completely objective. But from sensory feedback, I'm keeping this change! With the unpicker in my hand, removed the trial tucks in the sleeves, too. Looks like 3" to 4" reduction will be enough, but I'll wait until back, shoulders and the other cuff are correct before confirming.
EDIT : Oops, I'd picked up a smidgeon of fabric near the cuff when stitching the lowest tuck. No wonder that sleeve looks short in the photo. The unhappy areas-of-volume comments from the other day stand.
Making it permanent
Up till now, except for one cuff which had been cut and trimmed, all changes were reversible and have been reversed!
Firstly, the equivalent to adding ribbon under the back yoke is to raise the whole shirt an inch, everywhere except the centre back yoke. So stitched a horizontal tuck between the top and second buttons. And a long dart under the back yoke, straightening out for the middle 8" between my shoulder blades.
The bonus for a small person is that the tuck and darts shrink the armscye by 2", which'll let me shorten the sleeves from the top. Using the grid on the cutting mat, worked out that with this particular sleeve taper, I can take 2.75". Together with the inch I get from cutting the frayed bit off the cuff, that's not quite as much shorter as I'd like, but good enough.
Pinned the sleeves in. There's enough fabric, just. Notice that the sleeve cap is symmetrical, but the centre line is well to the back of the shoulder line. I managed to reduce the drop shoulder by 0.5", but it's still a lot of drop on me!
The verdict
It's been a good can't-spoil-it project. The hours of fun have been notionally booked against the Continuing Education budget (grin). Overall, I'm pleased with the fit from the centre back adjustment. Might consider a smidgeon more another time. Less happy with the seam line just under the neck. Another time maybe unpick the collar and move the whole collar/front yoke seam down? Whilst I'll settle for the sleeve length I achieved, I would prefer less volume as well. This is sounding like unpick everything except the placket, the front band and the hem, isn't it?Nevertheless, this'll give me something temporarily usable. It fills the wardrobe gaps labelled 'sleeves roll right up for medical appointments' and 'spring/autumn weight and goes with grey blue wool/silk trousers'. Or at least it will fill in until I get a women's shirt pattern Tried and Trusted.
And since DH has worn it many more than our target of 30 times, any additional wears from me are a bonus.
Alterations. Quick wins to fill some wardrobe gaps.
The Me Made May project helped me get my clothes in good order, but gave me yet another reminder that I need fewer prints (shame) and more plain tops and trousers to fill my wardrobe gaps.
1/ When I found a pair of coral M&S chinos in a charity shop, UK size 16, it was an opportunity to try something different. I have a 14 waist and low hip, but at high hip, I need every inch! I've had limited success in the past (understatement) altering the outseam or waist. Going back to basics, I compared with a successful basic pattern, a much modified descendant of New Look K6217. It's always harder to read the difference when a garment has darts. But it was clear that the entire back rise and the lower part of the front rise were the biggest differences.
Safety pinned, tried, roughly stitched, retried, then took in the waist a bit. And it felt close enough for a short stroll. I'd an errand to drop something off at a neighbour's flat. That'd be a fair test. Much better! Comfier than anything I can buy, but still needs a little more support. The mid part of the back rise provided some support, but I took in the upper part 1/4"×2 as well, above and beneath the bony ridge. At front hip, pleated out 1/4"×2 each side, darting down to nothing a couple of inches below the band. Support above the tum was provided by darts in the waistband, 1/4"×2 at the top tapering to nothing at the base.Shortened the legs by about two inches. To deal with the taper, unpicked the stitching line but not the serging above the hem fold. All changes were held together with long stitches until I'd walked into town the next day. All was well, so unpicked the old stitching and topstitching on the rise, then restitched it more tidily. Then I was confident to trim and zigzag (which gave me a fraction more ease to kneel comfortably as well as sit, stand and walk.) Not perfect, but perfectly wearable.
2/ As a can't-spoil-it project I did the same alteration to widen and scoop the rise of the size 14 M&S navy chinos. They'd always a bottom-of-the-washing-pile choice. Wearable, sort of, but unsightly and uncomfortable for more than a few hours, you know the kind. And guess what? So much improved that I'd wear them to meet a friend. Comfy enough to sit all evening. I think this change might happen to at least one other pair of plain trousers.
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| Before |
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| After |
3/ A different gap. I didn't possess a hot weather dress that I could wear in public. A couple of sleeved dresses. And some camisoles, whose pattern is Tried but not Trusted yet. When I found a cotton bias-cut sleeveless dress for a couple of pounds, size 18, a few days before the Saharan weather system returned to our parts, it had to come home with me. I love bias cut, it stretches vertically or horizontally to size, but doesn't walk around your body. On the other hand it needs TLC when altering. As I'd thought, the fit was good, but the shoulders were too long for a petite person. Without any effort, you could see the bottom my bra band at the underarm. I'd seen a tutorial on Mrs Mole's site (fit for a queen blog) a few days before, to raise a neckline in a lined dress. This was effectively the same problem, so followed the instructions, and the dress became respectable. Not only that, it was worn and washed nearly every day while the hot spell lasted.
I just need an overshirt which goes, now, for sun protection on my way out or home!

Wednesday, 18 May 2022
May distraction. A UFO moved on, but still not a success.
The plan, to concentrate on the Me Made May assessment, and do any minor fixes as I find them, continued. But I'm also trying to move Unfinished Objects (UFOs) to the Finished or Remodelled list.
I'm counting the green French Terry jacket as a May project, although it was started last October, remodelled starting in April, and finally assessed as a failed UFO. It had a miscut back neckline, a tendency to duck tail, and I simply felt swamped and uncomfortable in the boxy cut. I decided to unpick it and see if the fabric could be pieced and reused. A skirt wasn't going to work, but I'm still short of mild weather layers. Are these called overs or toppers nowadays? I want something that can be fastened for warmth at centre front in the mornings and evenings, but can be opened up when warm with scurrying, or if the weather improves as the day moves on.
Unable to quickly* find a pattern with deep set in sleeves (there are plenty of raglan or drop shoulder around but I'm not yet working on fitting them), I decided to trace an old black pj top and add a front fastening. Various adjustments for a first attempt. I've kept the nice detail of a small bodice extension before joining the sleeves, which have a wide and shallow sleeve cap, the kind I usually see in toddler knits. A few fitting changes at the shoulders, plus I've given myself an additional quarter inch at high hip, 1" total extra ease.
* Rant. Of course I've stumbled across two or three candidates since. But I'm rubbish at guessing search terms. 'Tops sew pattern' really doesn't help narrow down the options, set-in doesn't seem to be indexed on the search engines.
I pieced fabric big enough for the sleeves from the dismantled dropped shoulders version and some scraps, zigzagged in an arc at back neck. Unfortunately, the horizontal seam affects the drape - shame, cos I've been fantasising about lower waste layouts for the next version. Unhappy about both the the wider-than-anticipated-neckline and the backward shoulder creep, I tried a centre back/neck dart. And hey presto, fit and drape improved no end. I've added buttons but not buttonholes at the front. Will probably just add press-studs for now. Not a spectacular rescue, perhaps I'll replace the sleeves now I've found the missing remnant, but certainly better than its predecessor.
One extra thing happened towards the end of the month. If this is an indoor to outdoor layer, it needs pockets. I spent ages pinning rectangles in different proportions to try find a phone-friendly size. No luck since I simply don't have a flat front, or a large enough area that approximates a flat front. Keys, tickets and a few coins or a note will go in, but will have to take a bag for my phone. Since that functional requirement couldn't be met, I subbed in the pockets from Tilly and the Buttons Stella Hoodie. Well, divided the kangaroo pocket into two, then lined and stitched both on. Yet again, I need more practice to stop it looking amateurish.
I've worn this a couple of times for coastal or woodland walks. It's much more comfy than RTW, and practical around the house and on the dunes. The bad news: it looks lumpy and miserable. It'll do temporarily. Next time (and I have another length of French terry in brown,) let's revise the high back and shoulder shaping, which is not far out. Try sleeves without piecing so I can assess where the excess is, and maybe add a smidge at high hip. Narrow the neckband: it doesn't have the tension of a continuous front to keep it tidy at the overlap. Raise the neckline to compensate, and maybe a bit more to cover the assorted tee shirts that show awkwardly (most of them). Or just continue refining my tee necklines outward and downwards, which is happening anyway..
Wish me luck!






