Tuesday, 28 April 2026

Not Me Made May

Rather than committing to Me Made May this year, I did a clothes sort and have either completed or gathered materials for small repairs or stain treatments. 

I still have about the right number of clothes for my environment and lifestyle (about 50 items) in styles and colours that work for me. However, some of them are wearing thin (mostly the plain ones). Also last year's wearable toiles were deliberately in less favoured fabrics.

I would like to buy more clothes ready made, since I'm a slow sewer. It's difficult, though, when you're petite with a pronounced curve to the spine. For example I have more bone at high hip than the standard mannequin has - definitely not a flat front. 

Ready mades
Unusually this year, I found three Rtw garments which are loose enough for comfort. All three look OK from the front. 
The cream cardigan was a good style for me, the large collar balances the big turn ups I have to fold on cuffs. However the soft yarn kept felting with loose fibres from adjoining garments. So it made it to the office only once and is now demoted to everyday.  
The brushed poly top is warm and comfortable. It's had a couple of dozen wears under a jumper, but I fear the soft fabric will probably only look good for another dozen or so wears. The horizontal stripes emphasise the poor fit at upper back - it was probably intended for someone with squarer shoulders. 
Most upset about the blue corderoy tiered dress, which is a nice style and fabric weight for Spring and Autumn. Since the side seams pulled forward at the lower ribs, the back looked awful. I tried to rescue by pinning darts at underarms, didn't work because my ribs flare not taper at underbust. Then tried pinning darts just above the waist. Actually I needed to raise the whole waistline above the swayback to avoid stress lines from back neck to front hip. It was a pain to unpick all those lines of stitches. However I will now choose the modified dress more often. 

Remodelling 
I made one major change to an existing me-made, a brown raglan jacket made some years ago when first learning about fitting. The fabric was leftover from a friend's craft project, but a useful weight for summer. The ancestor pattern was Successful Sewing 8, mine turned out as a sort of long bomber jacket. Unfortunately the jacket felt meh in its proportions on me, and I had to regularly replace the lowest popper which strained when sitting. I removed the hem band and the lower darts to give a straighter somewhat cropped jacket. Would have taken it even shorter if it were not for the pockets. It's still not a great fit, but is better on my petite frame, and is likely to be chosen more often after not a great deal of work. 

Recent me-mades 
February teal cords are a firm favourite. First choice off the clean washing pile for warmth, shape and comfort.
March chocolate brown trousers are a good office choice, or for any semi-formal day with only the odd half-hour walking. The thick fabric is a little stiff at the seams and hence a bit scratchy for a city walks. I think this version needs tiny changes to deal with increasing stretch throughout the day. 
April Morris-esque print jacket, not yet blogged, was very comfortable for travelling and city walks. I also felt suitably dressed for a classical concert and dinner. This version of the pattern is definitely worth tracing and making again in different fabric types.

Summer wardrobe gaps 
I have more brown-toned tops for the summer than bottoms. And more grey-blue trousers than tops. Both pairs of previous sand-coloured trousers are worn out. Despite poor Rtw fit on me, maybe I can find temporary light-weight trousers to take in at low hip or let out at high hip? Edit, end April, found some outdoor trousers size 14 which fit well in leg width and at low hip, but need waist expanding ie back darts reducing in length and width, and using side seam allowance to do the same to the 'waist darts' there. Of course they'll need shortening, and I'll either use what I cut off the length to add to the waistband, or maybe use the belt loop fabric. Not trivial, but a little quicker and cheaper than cutting and sewing a new pair. 

Ongoing
Continue working on a well-fitting tee. The last version, with ancestor pattern Freya from Tilly and the Buttons, was deliberately looser than the previous version, but ended up too wide on my neck, shoulders and biceps. Can I learn anything from the April jacket?
The last woven top, chicken print, feels fine but looks meh near my face. I now wonder if the V-neck was unsuccessful because of my asymmetric shoulders. Can I replace the front neck/yoke area with a round neckline?
What fabric do I have to make trial tops to look nice with any of the blue trousers? Or bottoms to go with favourite brown tops? 

Next year
The plain tops really do need replacing. Buy fabric once patterns are established. 

    

Friday, 17 April 2026

2026 March summary - chocolate brown trousers

Sewing 
Dark Chocolate office trousers. NL6130 V2 2026. 
I traced 2026v1 (teal cord pattern)  with ancestor NL6130 via TDCO process. When the inherited man-made length (possibly crimplene) was pre-washed, it shrank so much I reduced seam allowances to 3/8". The only fitting change was to increase the tum darts. However due to fabric limitations the waistband is narrow, pieced and backed with a different material. The patch pocket will only hold a house key and a train ticket. 
A slightly more difficult material than I've tackled recently. It frayed like mad, so I zigzagged extensively and treated the inseams as welt seams (top stitched to the back).
These have been fine around the office, They are not such nice fabric as the old favourites, but they are in better condition. 

Fitting 
A general thing to remember. The last three waistbands I have made were fine while trying on. And still are fine immediately after washing the garment. However, by lunchtime a very small horizontal stretch is a bigger vertical drop. No longer comfortable at the inseams. I need to set buttons etc a little on the tight side. Better to do that than move them a day or two later. 

Knitting/crochet 
Two 6" granny squares, one light green, one primrose, were edged in darker green. Ultimately to be used for a Christmas project by the knitting group. 

Finished a second hat a for homeless man, to be donated via the charity Shelter. Started a third. For a change, the last one  has a four section crown instead of my usual eight. Same stitch count, increase to 88st on 6mm needles, knit stocking stitch for a generous thumb length, one pair of short rows to warm ears and neck, then rib another inch or so on 5mm needles.

I needed a very lightweight project when carrying other stuff one day, so have cast on a preemie hat with tiny leftovers on the short 4mm bamboo dpns. The crown is white, in 5 sections double increase, and the stand is green 60 St's. 

Repairs
Restitched perished stitching on DH's trouser hem. 

Ages ago, I'd unpicked lettering from an event fleece jacket, and covered the logo with a star-splattered moon. This month I finally found and attached a little crochet cat. Silly, I know, but it balances the design. The fleece is a good weight for this weather - why not make it look fun rather than adequately rescued. 

Arrivals/departures
I'd thrown out a load of shrunken socks. Then DD decluttered and offered me half a dozen pairs in good condition. That gives me enough again. 
A friend who also has a tum disproportionate to her weight said maternity tights work well for her. I picked up an unused pair in a charity shop. When I got them out of the packet they were way too long, and too difficult to stretch to my waist measurement. They will be donated back, still unused. 

Next steps
Prepped the pattern S6614 cardigan, adding 1/4" at high shoulder point. 











    

Saturday, 7 March 2026

2026 February - Teal cords

Sewing 
Teal corduroy trousers, 2026 v1 from ancestor pattern 6130, which was significantly tweaked for my shape in last year's TDCO exercise. Due to fabric shrinkage when prewashed, I needed to cut with a separate back gusset, and to move ⅛“ from inseam to outseam - this worked OK since wanted sitting ease not standing room. After trying on, I also made a small adjustment to the top of the centre back seam. I decided to put a side fastening instead of a zip on this version to test the centre front fit. Only a tiny adjustment was made at lower tum. However, the next day I had a stupid evening and put placket and band on with an underlap not an overlap.  
Overall, I'm glad I've tested with the gusset and succeeded with sloped pockets. I'm ready to make some office trousers from this pattern. 

Knitting
Test knit a couple of patterns of stars, requested further down the chain by a Brownie leader. Tried a starfish pentangle-ish pattern first. However five 60° angles gave too much fullness for my taste. I preferred the woven star pattern, two interlinked triangles. So does my friend who will be knitting up a batch. 

Made one last pair of baby mittens from the green yarn. 

Hat a for homeless man, requested by one of my knitting group friends who supports the charity Shelter. I had been given a unpicked jumper, DK in two shades of blue, high wool content. Knitting both strands together, I'll get two, maybe three, hats from the available yarn. One finished in February, another started. 

Repairs done
Small hole darned in rainbow gloves
DH's coffee colour shirt, removed pocket flaps, zigzagged tattered pocket edge. 
Hanging hook on new towel - all batch towels checked and correct. 
TDCO pj's, mended the second split. 
Another popped button on purple coat. 
Failed repair, an event top which I had tried to unpick the logo from, and made a hole in (grrr). Couldn't find a suitable stretch fabric for a pocket over the mess, and DH agreed we should just put it in the textile bank. 



Discards
Koala pj trousers, worn out
S6614 v2 white sheeting top. Was really a trial being used as emergency pj's - I have enough pj's. 
Lots of shrunken socks. 
Cleared out a load of worn-out-fabric test garments from the 'maybe I'll do something with this' bag. They've had a garment life and then provided some useful learning, and now it's time to let them go to the textile bank. 







    

Saturday, 28 February 2026

2026 January, a fun project

We took our annual holiday in the winter this year. Escaped for a few days to Spain, where there is light and warmth, at least compared to snowy Britain. Didn't do much crafty stuff, and (oops) the biggest project was a fun thing not a necessity. 

Sewing
Viking hood, used some lovely pieces of silk from a damaged kimono. It needed 12.5" squares plus seam allowances. Managed to piece 13.5" squares for the shoulders. Thought the capelet was just a little long, but was fine once the double fold hem was in place (3/8" plus 5/8"). The hood would perhaps have been even better with felled seams than French seams. Nevertheless, I like wearing it on a cold evening, especially to comfort my face muscles. 

Knitting
Just a pair of green baby mitts for a colleague, to go with the hat finished in December. 

Repairs
Replacement buttons on cotton pj shorts, purple coat. 
Added zip and inside pockets to a cloth shopping bag before our holiday. (A longer shoulder strap wasn't useful so removed it after we got home) 
Restitched hanging loop on grey wool coat. 
Restitched pocket on DH's hoodie and darned small holes. 
Torn summer pj trousers, however there's a second rip. 

Arrivals
burgundy/cream striped top, sleeves 2.5" shortened and 1" narrowed 
Green pj's, waist added 2" elastic at back, shortened 2.5", narrowed 1.5" at cuff. 
Turquoise spring coat, shortened sleeves 1.5"

Next steps
In the last few days of January I prepped fabric for a replacement pair of corduroy trousers. The bad news? It wasn't a full 60", or at least not after washing. Better news, I'd bought 1.5m, so by cutting a gusset, it was just possible to preserve the nap and grain. I've also prepped the pattern for slant pockets. However I'm not sure how they'll play with my front high hip darts, so won't cut the side seams on that line till I'm certain. 






    

Monday, 26 January 2026

2025 —How did I do?

At the beginning of 2025, I was happy that the shapes and colours in my wardrobe met my needs. I had intended to continue refining patterns for my petite pear shaped frame with forward-tilting hip crests. A woven top and an improved trouser pattern were next on the list. How did I do? 

Sewing

Spent February and March trying Top Down Centre Out (TDCO) trouser fitting starting with New Look 6130. The method uses your waistband as a stable starting point. After some tribulations, largely because I don't have a flat front, the cotton summer pair have been really comfy. I did achieve a better sense of curves around waist and hip, and want to remake the pattern with standard rather than patch pockets in 2026.

Woven top? Three wearable versions of S6614 dress converted to a top were finished. Though not in great fabrics, I'm happy with the pattern, and they will do in summer for a year or two. 

I also made two versions of stretch fabric S6614 cardigan. V1 from old sheeting was supposed to be expendable. It's actually been worn lots over short sleeved tees. I also made V2 from leftover fleece. While I need to either line the next as the pattern intended, or add more of an overlap for buttons, I would definitely like to make more. 

As a bonus fitting project, I  tried a woven cami to explore fit between underbust and high hip. Ancestor pattern was a magazine giveaway dress which seems to be New Look 6369. I've worn this on the few very hot days, and more often as an under layer. 


I haven't managed to make any more plain tees, though I did buy two supposedly cropped ones, hip length on me, and am wearing them with 3" cuffs turned up. Less good, I bought more printed jersey (Oops, I'm more short of plains) and haven't even dug out the last version of the pattern. 

Household. 
The seating in our living/dining room was, shall we say, varied. I loose-covered a 3-seater sofa, a roller chair and our four dining chairs, then wallpapered the assorted storage boxes which happen to fit our shelving. I'm happy that the room feels more coordinated and restful now 



Knitting

Finished an Aran toddler hat. 

The Manx loaghtan hat is permanently lost, I think because it was slightly small in diameter. 

I reknit my teal Talvi jumper from the armscye up, and have been much happier. However I'm not sure my notes are good enough to make another that actually fits. The sewn cardi is likely to be a better starting point in 2026. 

The Finchdale jumper langushed in a cupboard until December, then I couldn't find the ends to unpick beyond the yoke, so, come January, I'm still cobbling together some narrower shoulders.

Small knit community projects were granny squares for the Bear Parade, Christmas chains for the café, more baby hats ... 

Cobbling. 
I have no scruples about altering not-quite-last-legs garments, or about acquiring and altering charity shop finds. I can afford time and a little money for a fail (like the denim skirt that just wasn't right for me)  
 
Removed waistband from wool/silk trousers. Let out every seam and dart, and added an insert to cb waistband.  They're comfier now.
  
Two tank-style tops contrived from shrunk or stretched tees

Lengthened red legwarmers when I found a bit more yarn. 

Care-and-repair: stain treatment, restitching popped seams and missing buttons; adjusting waist elastics; adding a dart at shoulder blade; rebound trousers cuffs; shortened shirts by 3"-4"; trimmed loose threads. Those kinds of jobs. 

A bonus craft project over the Easter break,with a simple table loom. Interesting as an experiment, however I don't imagine scaling up. 


Wardrobe 

So in 2025 I improved several woven patterns, and made some wearable trial garments, though all in poor quality fabrics.  

Footwear has always been difficult for me, and gets increasingly hard as my body ages. It rather limits which skirt/trousers work. I found some OK summer shoes locally. Later in the year, I took a trip to a specialist fitter in Clitheroe, who found me walking boots (chosen often) and some shoes adequate for our informal office. 

Given that there's been another year's wear on the stalwart outfits, I need to get rid of the scruffiest. Then think about how much I can actually buy while RTW is generously fitted enough to be alterable for me. The nice bit will be to outline my preferred makes for the coming months. 


  

Thursday, 8 January 2026

2025 December


Mostly had non-crafty fun this month with immediate family and with colleagues.

My making mojo is back a little, now last month's makes are in action. Enjoyed wearing the swaledale hat made last month, and have found the leftovers hat useful. The community project, 'paper chains', looked lovely in the cafe. 

While there's been some activity in December, the only finish was the knitted baby hat. And since one of my colleagues is expecting, I've started knitting a pair of mittens to go with it.

In the evenings, I've dug out an abandoned jumper, the Finchdale. Still too wide across the shoulders, and too low and wide in the neckline. So yet again it's been unpicked and the yoke reknitted. I'm so fed up that, much as I like the yarn, I've resorted to k2tog as yoke darts. It should be wearable then, but not smart. So I've actually bought, in the post-Christmas sales, an office-suitable cardi which doesn't look too ridiculous with 4" cuffs turned up (because it has a big  collar). 

A few bits of mending - the usual suspects. Popped seams, various buttons replaced, DH's shirt pockets darned...

I've been looking at the refashioning pile. A nice black and white silk square scarf just wanted a worn out fringe removed. 

Also pulled out a gifted silk kimono. The back panel had shredded. However, the front sleeves and bands were different silks and are fine. I've disassembled, and think there will just be enough to make a viking style hood using a grid* 12.5" units plus seam allowances. If just a little short of materials, I might get away with a 10" capelet section. The size-check prototype, pinned but not cut from unrelated leftovers, looked and felt good. 

The jumper, the mittens, and the potential hood are going to carry over into January. 


* Mathematically inclined readers may be pleased to see that the 6 square T-shaped grid, with different seams, would be a possible net for a cube. Grin. 

Sunday, 7 December 2025

2025 September/October/November summary

It's been a busy few months with non-crafty activities. The good stuff, concerts and walks and visits to see friends. Not so good, a family member needing support many miles from us. (She is doing much better now) 

Sewing. The big success was v2 of S6614 cardi in red fleece. The bodice fitting tweaks in v1 were fine. This time, though, I didn't leave quite enough centre front facing for the buttons I used. Made neck facings from scraps of poly/silk. Reshaped the sleeve heads, this thicker fabric wouldn't ease enough. This has been worn several times including to the office. I want to make more in better fabrics. 

Knitting. Although I've carried yet another baby hat around with me, it has mostly stayed in my handbag. 

Then, for my birthday, I was given a ball of real Swaledale wool for a hat. 80 St's on 6.5mm needles. Oh, lovely to knit with. I kept it very plain to show the gentle greys, just a few purl stitches on the stand for decoration. (EDIT: unpicked the last few rows to have less fabric over eyebrows/glasses, and short rowed at the back to keep ear lobes and neck warm.)

Hat from leftover wool. Had a failed neck scarf in cream, looked terrible against my silver hair, and a 22st band of brown in similar weight. Contrived a Fibonacci stripe pattern which fitted plausibly with my head measurements, but actually came out a bit shorter than my preference. So today, the last of the month, I've unpicked to the stand and decreased every third row, with the intention of adding an inch. Fingers crossed there'll be enough yarn. (EDIT: just enough yarn to be usable in our mild damp winters , though I don't think it'll be a favourite) 

Community project, knitted 'paper' chains for a Santa themed event. 5sts by 15cm stocking stitch on the small addi.

Alterations
Removed waistband from wool/silk trousers. Either they've shrunk 3" or I've grown. Probably a bit of both. Let out every seam and dart, and they're comfier now. Back waistband needed an insert with a scrap of cotton. This pair still are shorter than when first made, but are good enough with ankle boots. 

Two tank-style tops contrived. Removed worn out turtleneck and sleeves from the light tan old Freya tee, turned and stitched edges. Same method to rescue the first of the duck Freya tees, though I was able to keep the bound neckline on that one. They are in regular rotation now.