Wrap-a-mouse, a fitting model

Ì want to revisit fitting woven tops. However a tape measure isn't working well to model my pronounced sway back, curved upper back, and tilted hips. (For instance, my neck area gets in the way of a shoulder to shoulder measurement) Someone moving house donated a half roll of midweight plastic wrap... Let's try the cling film method of making a fitting shell. That way there are no preconceptions. 

Mathematically, you'd get best results with a narrow strip and a continuous build over several hours. That is not going to happen in the heat, or without a sewing-savvy helper. What is possible is to build a sketch in sections, about the width of the roll. 

Step 1, wrap the first section. With a little help from DH, wrapped ribs to thigh about 6 times. I could reach to mark centre front, tummy button height and most forward point of hip crest bones. DH roughly marked my spine.

No point being too precise, since the plastic has stretch and recovery. After cutting myself free, I estimate it recovered by 10%-15%, depending on the tension in each area.

Step 2, where should the seams be?

No preconceptions, I  said. I want a flat pattern so need to snip into the areas of greatest curvature. Not surprisingly to me, the sideseam position was fairly flat, but there was a strongly curved area a thumb length towards back and front. I chose to follow my own anatomy, snipping long 'darts' above the most prominent point of hip crests, back and front. I also followed my own anatomy either side of centre front, cutting long 'darts' from the raised bone a fraction below empire line, not far above where my ribs divide, to the side of my tum at the height where it's pushed forward most.

Step 3, assessment 

First, some words for the horizontals, all about a thumb length apart:

Empire line, my smallest circumference is underbust;

High waist, the bend point; 

Low waist, the lowest point above hip bone, most recessed part of the spine.

High hip, at the most prominent bone at front, a ridge of bone at the back, and yes, some tummy flesh at centre front;

Low hip, the widest part of my bum, which sticks out at the back because of hip tilt, recessed at the front.

Because of rib tilt, my front is a part-cone from Empire line to low waist. The back in this region is closer to a conventional inverted part‐cone, more tilted than the standard. 

  At the empire line boundary, there's tissue above, a more prominent rib below and the next rib is even further forward. I can barely fit a thumb in the gap, so will model for fabric to fall about half an inch further forward.

  The other empty space to consider is about a thumb length below my tummy button, where my hip tilt causes an underhang. Skirts look better if loosely fitted in this zone. Trousers likely need slash and spread above the knee - think pleated pants drafting. I want my model to reflect the more fitted shape. 

My working hypothesis is that I should smooth over low waist in the side seam area for tops and dresses, but compress a little bit for skirt and trouser waistbands. Why? That height is the most forward part of my tum, and indeed the most forward part of my spine, so I have to take the fabric weight on the hip bone, not risk a garment sliding down the overhang. 

At this point I have a mental model and a very rough physical model in plastic film - which deteriorates each time it is handled. 

Step 4, transferring to paper

I used paper tablecloths for rough drafts

Added 1" at centre back and at centre front.

Using the plastic film as a guide, and remembering to add in the stretch/recovery factor, treated the slashes as vertical darts around my circumference. My piece of paper was long enough to reach almost up to Empire line, and down to low hip.

Folded, pinned, adjusted until it was close to my shape.

Step 5, transferring to scrap fabric, an old sheeting rectangle that reached from Empire line to thigh. I allowed extra at centre front. Since fabric drapes more naturally, there was a little bit of adjustment of dart length and intake. However it was pretty close to what I wanted.

I took a tiny fisheye dart in side seam area to mark low waist position.

Tapered the thigh portion to match my own shape. Not that mini skirts work for my lifestyle.

Put tactile markers (a few stitches) at centre back low waist, where (bridget jones big but comfy) knicker elastic crosses spine, and on tummy button. These fix height, tension and rotation.

Section 2 Underbust to overbust, and shoulder blades.

I managed this on my own, underarm to Empire line. Of course, a certain amount of compression went on. Nevertheless I got a good first approximation to mouse shape.

Followed the same steps as before, trace the wrap to a bit of paper tablecloth. Add width to compensate for compression. Make more symmetrical, and divide the darts. Fold and pin and try on. Then add a bit more width before tracing onto a worn out pillow slip. Keep pinning until fit is improved. The thing that surprised me was that, for this close fit, I couldn't back the darts away from the apex, the fabric chose to move so the point filled the corner.

I divided the dart intake into one small very near the armscye, and two large under the apex. A nice detail, keeping seams a couple of inches forward and back of the usual line. Could let that small dart form a mini princess line running into the low scye. In the same way as section 1, added an inch to the empire line rather than model unusable space. 

Section 3, yoke and shoulders. 

Poor DH agreed to wrap me again. This time from a line roughly 3" above my elbow to a high scoop neckline. The shape of the Mold* cape, though plastic film is a very poor substitute for prehistoric gold.

No surprises about cutting darts at back shoulder and back neck, compensates for vertical curve. 

My shoulders are sloping and forward, so the ball is prominent here. The pattern angle can be adjusted by folding out a wedge at scye from collarbone to just below the ball of my shoulder. I'm also looking at the shapes and thinking a saddle shoulder, about 4" total, would give an even nicer fit at back shoulder and possibly be a low waste design on a fabric remnant. 

Went through the same process as before: trace onto paper, pin fit, adjust, cut in waste fabric, fine tune...

* Mold is a small town in north Wales. The archaeology is amazing! 

Step 6 merging the sections 

Preserving the work done in fabric, transferred changes back to the paper. I chose to keep my model in two sections, boundary at Empire line. For the top, I lined up at centre front and centre back, and traced. It had been clear for some time that I didn't have a good model of the sleeve cap and armscye - though the cap/flap was useful to haul on while aligning everything yet again with my shoulder points. Dug out the flexible ruler and did the best I could, matching the dimple where yoke crosses armscye at the front. At the back* the scye was my best guess because the back/arm boundary moves around so much. I chose not to deal with a sleeve cap but to let this version of my model be sleeveless.

* I have debated for years how to get movement ease and excess fabric balanced, whilst shared between back and sleeve cap. It has to work whether standing up, reaching up and forward, or falling asleep on a long train journey. 

From the tidied up tracings, I made one more physical model in worn out fabric. There were still a few challenges. With five darts and four seams around the torso I lost precision. Some user error, I'm reasonably competent with marking and stitching now, but not expert. And once I saw it, I realised the lower section, scrapped sheeting, had different turn of cloth than the upper, a scrapped pillow case.

Rather a shame that I have no use for a tennis dress. The final model fits me nicely. There's little ease, but I can sit, read, do housework. Not brave enough to show my legs on the balcony, however we have been closing our curtains against the unusual heat, so it's been OK to test wear inside.

This project has been time well spent.

2026 June and July. Tinkering and Wrap-a-mouse

No single make, but cleared a lot of small tasks. 

June was a tinkering month. I reluctantly accept I've gone up a size, and I'm exploring what that means in terms of fitting. My skirts and dresses are more forgiving than trousers, so that's mostly what I've worn. A change in my meds means I'm coping a little better with temperature variations than usual. It's been nice to get some wear out of my short sleeves this month.

July, more tinkering and some fitting. Mostly the Wrap-a-mouse project, another attempt at a cling film model of my current shape. Wrap, cut plausible darts, trace to paper, adjust, trace to fabric, adjust. Not doing it by the book, but have attempted three sections, Empire line to thigh; Empire line to underarm; and shoulder and upper arm. By the beginning of August, the shoulder to Empire line pieces had been merged, and the lower section tried and traced. Haven't done much with the sleeve cap beyond recording the cling film shape. The scye seems a good guess at fit. However I have thought that before, then found it not to be the case. We will see in August. 

I also had a quick go at adapting the bog coat to my narrow sloping shoulders and curvy upper back. I looked at the Balenciaga diagram, but ran out of time before heading off to a relative's momentous birthday celebration, miles from my home. I'd like to come back to that idea too. My idea was a light wrap from a thin scarf, a bit of sun protection at this time of year. 

Knitting:

The blue and purple merino legwarmers, with Lucas number stripes. Both legs were finished in July, despite only being worked on at knit and natter. Where I'm generally nattering. 

The experiment to adapt S6614 cardi pattern for knits is also progressing slowly. Back and sleeves went quickly. Somehow the fronts sat longer in my bag than in my hands. Finally sewed them up during a bands* in the park concert, but should have known there'd be a trapezium needed to level it at bust height. Well, the half-lining of the parent garment wasn't level, why did I expect the adaptation be different? I've put this down till I get some conclusions from the Wrap-a-mouse project. 

* International readers, brass band in the park is a very informal affair. Stop as long or as little as you like. Bring children, bring picnic. Knitting brings out a little friendly curiosity.

Repairs

Shortened and added sitting ease to refitted sand-coloured trousers - let out cb and side seams. I really do need to start with a UK 16 and take in, rather than let out a 14.

Popped seam under sleeve on H's jacket

Stretched neckline, white V-neck tee, taken in ¼"

Shortened blue and sand checked shirt 3.5", above small worn holes. Want to think about sleeve alterations - I'm currently wearing it with cuffs turned up.

Shortened bright floral shirt 3" to improve proportions. Could have been 3.5".

Coral flower maxi dress, for 90th party. Stitched up sleeves by 1.5" to cover bra band at underarm. After the party, I wore it as a hot weather night dress. Would like to take up an inch at shoulders, and maybe fill in the V-neck for sun protection.

Around the hottest days, rejigged ancient cotton jersey bra to add triangles to band where ribs flare. Stole a little from seam to add cup volume.

Three pj tops altered. These were originally trial garments for woven tops, and were comfy when I first made them. However with shape changes they are all cutting into my underarm, especially the left. I realised that the shoulder slope no longer matches my current angle. One had facings, and I stole seam allowance at Hsp, which worked. Another had a proper collar, it sits rather better now reduced at Sp, but is still tight in some sleeping positions. The third suffered from sheer laziness. I zigzagged where I'd cut the neck binding at HSP instead of searching for a compatible scrap. now the zigzag irritates the eczema on my neck.

Key ring teddy bear left by house guest. Hanging loop repaired.

DH's old zip pouch has a new strap. Which gives him a spare.

Finally finished faffing with the red event tee. It now has a hexagon patch with bees, and has been returned to DH.

Other crafty activities. Visited the May Morris exhibition at Port Sunlight. It's good to see credit for these iconic designs going to the creator not her father. She was known in her lifetime for her embroidery. The exhibition centrepiece was an absolutely stunning dress which she had made for a friend. 

And in August? 

Finish the Wrap-a-mouse lowest section. See how it informs yet another attempt at a fairly standard woven semi-fitted short sleeved top. Not sure how much time I can devote, given that I also need to complete the household summer tasks - paintwork, washing thick bedding and so on.

2026 May summary, Bee fabric Freya 2026 v1

May has been generally dingy, so I've mostly worn my mid weight trousers and long sleeved tees, combined as necessary with scarves and wristwarmers. Met up with a relative in Hexham, and, rebel that I am, wore the silk Viking hood in the wind at the beautiful Vindolanda Roman site on Hadrian's Wall. It proved to be a very flexible garment, used as sun protection a fortnight later when our area was just on the edge of the UK heat dome.

Sewing:

Freya 2026 v1 in bee fabric. 

My tees are wearing out, most of them are 3 or 4 years old. The comfiest are the soft blue with white flowers, which correspond to 2023 v3 and v3a, ancestor pattern Freya by Tilly and the Buttons. I still had tracings of v3a and v7, the monet-esque. I prefer v3a neckline and shoulder width. 

Made lots of small pattern changes...

Starting with 2023 v3a back: 

 Widen by ½“ from most protruding point of blades, scye notch height;  

 Take a dart at shoulder notch to compensate. Odd in a knit, however I'll get away with it in my intended single jersey;

 Raise high shoulder point by ¼“, taking a smidge more into the shoulder dart to compensate; 

 Restore the scye to a more conventional shape.

Starting with 2023 v3a front: 

 Narrow the sideseams above hip height; 

 Scoop the front scye below yoke level.

Starting with 2023 v3a sleeve: 

 This had a smaller cap than the new scye. Added ⅛" height; 

 Lengthened by ¼".

The slightly metallic finish on this fabric looked gorgeous on the roll, but it bruises easily when folded or stitched. Think this version will be wearable but not for best. We will see how it washes and wears.

EDIT: did a wear test on 1st June. Provionally pleased with silhouette and comfort. I've pinned a couple of ⅛" changes to the front scye, but haven't machined yet.

Knitting. 

Blue and purple merino legwarmers, with Lucas number stripes. Both legs are at 11" by 31 May. Blue yarn is almost used up on the stocking stitch, there should be enough purple left for the top ribbing.

A new experiment, trying to adapt S6614 cardi pattern for knits, rotating some darts to short rows. Testing as a bolero on big needles. I have notes, however it's a travel piece, too, so it'll be a while before blogged.

Repairs:

Replaced button on DH's trousers 

Moved in sleeve buttons on blue corduroy dress.

Tidied up waistband on refitted sand-coloured trousers - however there still isn't quite enough sitting ease.

Debating whether to do: Replace lower band on Hermia teal cardi which is slightly flared compared to the stocking stitch above it. I'd chosen to do that rather than rib because I dislike the slight gather which emphasises my lower tum. This band is better, however I need to lose something like one in ten stitches. Whether it's worth it given the merino superwash is already showing wear at hips and elbows... It'd involve removing and reknitting the button band. The smaller thing is to add a couple of rows to the button band, filling in the wide V a bit ‐ for warmth and better proportions on my short frame.

Possibles for June 

A light wrap from an old scarf?

Use damaged silk scarf for a cami?  

Another Freya to pattern test latest changes in plain colour?

Red event men's polo, add pocket, experiment with refitting?

Chicken-print top, can I replace yoke for better fit at front shoulders. A round neck to de-emphasise my asymmetry there? 

Skirt yoke to fit. Use for grey pleated fabric?

    

2026 April summary, Morris-esque jacket

Sewing 

S6614 cardi v1 2026 Morris-esque furnishing fabric. 

I'm wearing this as a jacket, in a print inspired by the Strawberry Thief, 

One pattern change since last year's red fleece, added 1/4" at high shoulder point, which has fixed stress lines at neck. Tested the change as a half lining, a soft white twill weave, probably polyester.  The main fabric seems to be largely cotton. 

Yet again in 2026, I'm using what fabric I have, even when it's not really quite enough. This time I made it work by piecing the back, using selvedges at the centre front opening, and then using other materials for edge treatments. I'm actually happier with the proportions at this slightly shorter length than the previous version.

Finishing style? Four inherited buttons from neck to underbust again. This time button loops were made from bias binding, decorated with grey blind-hem stitch to blend with the main fabric. The hem was skimpier than my preference, so I extended it with a bit of bias binding. Wish I'd used bias instead of lining to cover the button loops on the inside. Hanging loop from a ribbon oddment.

There was only enough main fabric for one rectangular patch pocket 5" wide and 5.5" high, and attached as close to hem as possible. Phone is fairly secure with this extra height, and doesn't dig into my ribs too much. 

I'm happy with the pattern now, and have made a good tracing with my adjustments. I'm enjoying wearing the jacket when I want to look a little tidier. 

DH asked for a zip pouch on an elastic waistband. It replaces one measuring  9.5"x4.5" excluding seam allowance. Waistband tabs were about 1"x6",the elastic making a total of 34" circumference. Again using what I have, I dug out the below knee section of some old navy canvas trousers (saved for mending). The zip was in a contrasting purple, for visibility, and inherited. I'd put some grosgrain ribbon from stash in the 'kit' but spotted a yard of narrow grey grosgrain in a charity shop which went better. He is happy. 

Knitting 

Preemie hat, white and green. 

Mansize hat in two shades of blue - no 3. 

Travel knitting, blue and purple merino legwarmers. Since one of the trips was to Cambridge, I chose Lucas numbers for the row counts. (Yes, I do know it's a different Lucas from the professorship - a mousematician is allowed terrible puns). Both legs are in progress, reaching up to the calves now. 

Chose not to do

Me Made May 2026. Instead did a clothes sort/assessment (see previous post) , and pulled a few garments out for repair etc. 

 

Remodelling, refitting 

Brown jacket, about 7 years old - removed lower band. 

Blue corduroy dress, RTW - shortened 1" at waist. Cuff buttons still need moving in. 

Sand-coloured outdoor trousers (charity shop find after the clothes sort) were let out at waist and high hip. Not a brilliant fit, or best stitching in awkward areas, however it should allow me to get some use from my brown tops this year. There's still a bit of hand finishing to do on the inner waist band, however the hard work is done. 

Repairs

Fixed popped seams on cycle shorts, and on a couple of tees

Replacement button on DH's trousers. 

Hem fixed on dragonfly trousers 

Shortened sleeves on silk dress for DD. 

Two white rtw cotton tees - removed stains with bleach

Sage linen trousers - hand stitched to tidy inside curve better

Moved buttons out on dragonfly trousers - I'm at my end of winter weight 

Shortened zip on grey wide leg trousers, because the lower end rolled awkwardly when unfastened. I hated struggling when there was a queue outside the cubicle. 

New arrivals:

White sunhat with floral band. 

    

Not Me Made May

Rather than committing to Me Made May this year, I did a clothes sort and have either completed or gathered materials for small repairs or stain treatments. 

I still have about the right number of clothes for my environment and lifestyle (about 50 items) in styles and colours that work for me. However, some of them are wearing thin (mostly the plain ones). Also last year's wearable toiles were deliberately in less favoured fabrics.

I would like to buy more clothes ready made, since I'm a slow sewer. It's difficult, though, when you're petite with a pronounced curve to the spine. For example I have more bone at high hip than the standard mannequin has - definitely not a flat front. 

Ready mades

Unusually this year, I found three Rtw garments which are loose enough for comfort. All three look OK from the front. 

The cream cardigan was a good style for me, the large collar balances the big turn ups I have to fold on cuffs. However the soft yarn kept felting with loose fibres from adjoining garments. So it made it to the office only once and is now demoted to everyday.  

The brushed poly top is warm and comfortable. It's had a couple of dozen wears under a jumper, but I fear the soft fabric will probably only look good for another dozen or so wears. The horizontal stripes emphasise the poor fit at upper back - it was probably intended for someone with squarer shoulders. 

Most upset about the blue corderoy tiered dress, which is a nice style and fabric weight for Spring and Autumn. Since the side seams pulled forward at the lower ribs, the back looked awful. I tried to rescue by pinning darts at underarms, didn't work because my ribs flare not taper at underbust. Then tried pinning darts just above the waist. Actually I needed to raise the whole waistline above the swayback to avoid stress lines from back neck to front hip. It was a pain to unpick all those lines of stitches. However I will now choose the modified dress more often. 

Remodelling 

I made one major change to an existing me-made, a brown raglan jacket made some years ago when first learning about fitting. The fabric was leftover from a friend's craft project, but a useful weight for summer. The ancestor pattern was Successful Sewing 8, mine turned out as a sort of long bomber jacket. Unfortunately the jacket felt meh in its proportions on me, and I had to regularly replace the lowest popper which strained when sitting. I removed the hem band and the lower darts to give a straighter somewhat cropped jacket. Would have taken it even shorter if it were not for the pockets. It's still not a great fit, but is better on my petite frame, and is likely to be chosen more often after not a great deal of work. 

Recent me-mades 

February teal cords are a firm favourite. First choice off the clean washing pile for warmth, shape and comfort.

March chocolate brown trousers are a good office choice, or for any semi-formal day with only the odd half-hour walking. The thick fabric is a little stiff at the seams and hence a bit scratchy for a city walks. I think this version needs tiny changes to deal with increasing stretch throughout the day. 

April Morris-esque print jacket, not yet blogged, was very comfortable for travelling and city walks. I also felt suitably dressed for a classical concert and dinner. This version of the pattern is definitely worth tracing and making again in different fabric types.

Summer wardrobe gaps 

I have more brown-toned tops for the summer than bottoms. And more grey-blue trousers than tops. Both pairs of previous sand-coloured trousers are worn out. Despite poor Rtw fit on me, maybe I can find temporary light-weight trousers to take in at low hip or let out at high hip? Edit, end April, found some outdoor trousers size 14 which fit well in leg width and at low hip, but need waist expanding ie back darts reducing in length and width, and using side seam allowance to do the same to the 'waist darts' there. Of course they'll need shortening, and I'll either use what I cut off the length to add to the waistband, or maybe use the belt loop fabric. Not trivial, but a little quicker and cheaper than cutting and sewing a new pair. 

Ongoing

Continue working on a well-fitting tee. The last version, with ancestor pattern Freya from Tilly and the Buttons, was deliberately looser than the previous version, but ended up too wide on my neck, shoulders and biceps. Can I learn anything from the April jacket?

The last woven top, chicken print, feels fine but looks meh near my face. I now wonder if the V-neck was unsuccessful because of my asymmetric shoulders. Can I replace the front neck/yoke area with a round neckline?

What fabric do I have to make trial tops to look nice with any of the blue trousers? Or bottoms to go with favourite brown tops? 

Next year

The plain tops really do need replacing. Buy fabric once patterns are established. 

    

2026 March summary - chocolate brown trousers

Sewing 

Dark Chocolate office trousers. NL6130 V2 2026. 

I traced 2026v1 (teal cord pattern)  with ancestor NL6130 via TDCO process. When the inherited man-made length (possibly crimplene) was pre-washed, it shrank so much I reduced seam allowances to 3/8". The only fitting change was to increase the tum darts. However due to fabric limitations the waistband is narrow, pieced and backed with a different material. The patch pocket will only hold a house key and a train ticket. 

A slightly more difficult material than I've tackled recently. It frayed like mad, so I zigzagged extensively and treated the inseams as welt seams (top stitched to the back).

These have been fine around the office, They are not such nice fabric as the old favourites, but they are in better condition. 

Fitting 

A general thing to remember. The last three waistbands I have made were fine while trying on. And still are fine immediately after washing the garment. However, by lunchtime a very small horizontal stretch is a bigger vertical drop. No longer comfortable at the inseams. I need to set buttons etc a little on the tight side. Better to do that than move them a day or two later. 

Knitting/crochet 

Two 6" granny squares, one light green, one primrose, were edged in darker green. Ultimately to be used for a Christmas project by the knitting group. 

Finished a second hat a for homeless man, to be donated via the charity Shelter. Started a third. For a change, the last one  has a four section crown instead of my usual eight. Same stitch count, increase to 88st on 6mm needles, knit stocking stitch for a generous thumb length, one pair of short rows to warm ears and neck, then rib another inch or so on 5mm needles.

I needed a very lightweight project when carrying other stuff one day, so have cast on a preemie hat with tiny leftovers on the short 4mm bamboo dpns. The crown is white, in 5 sections double increase, and the stand is green 60 St's. 

Repairs

Restitched perished stitching on DH's trouser hem. 

Ages ago, I'd unpicked lettering from an event fleece jacket, and covered the logo with a star-splattered moon. This month I finally found and attached a little crochet cat. Silly, I know, but it balances the design. The fleece is a good weight for this weather - why not make it look fun rather than adequately rescued. 

Arrivals/departures

I'd thrown out a load of shrunken socks. Then DD decluttered and offered me half a dozen pairs in good condition. That gives me enough again. 

A friend who also has a tum disproportionate to her weight said maternity tights work well for her. I picked up an unused pair in a charity shop. When I got them out of the packet they were way too long, and too difficult to stretch to my waist measurement. They will be donated back, still unused. 

Next steps

Prepped the pattern S6614 cardigan, adding 1/4" at high shoulder point. 

    

2026 February - Teal cords

Sewing 

Teal corduroy trousers, 2026 v1 from ancestor pattern 6130, which was significantly tweaked for my shape in last year's TDCO exercise. Due to fabric shrinkage when prewashed, I needed to cut with a separate back gusset, and to move ⅛“ from inseam to outseam - this worked OK since wanted sitting ease not standing room. After trying on, I also made a small adjustment to the top of the centre back seam. I decided to put a side fastening instead of a zip on this version to test the centre front fit. Only a tiny adjustment was made at lower tum. However, the next day I had a stupid evening and put placket and band on with an underlap not an overlap.  

Overall, I'm glad I've tested with the gusset and succeeded with sloped pockets. I'm ready to make some office trousers from this pattern. 

Knitting

Test knit a couple of patterns of stars, requested further down the chain by a Brownie leader. Tried a starfish pentangle-ish pattern first. However five 60° angles gave too much fullness for my taste. I preferred the woven star pattern, two interlinked triangles. So does my friend who will be knitting up a batch. 

Made one last pair of baby mittens from the green yarn. 

Hat a for homeless man, requested by one of my knitting group friends who supports the charity Shelter. I had been given a unpicked jumper, DK in two shades of blue, high wool content. Knitting both strands together, I'll get two, maybe three, hats from the available yarn. One finished in February, another started. 

Repairs done

Small hole darned in rainbow gloves

DH's coffee colour shirt, removed pocket flaps, zigzagged tattered pocket edge. 

Hanging hook on new towel - all batch towels checked and correct. 

TDCO pj's, mended the second split. 

Another popped button on purple coat. 

Failed repair, an event top which I had tried to unpick the logo from, and made a hole in (grrr). Couldn't find a suitable stretch fabric for a pocket over the mess, and DH agreed we should just put it in the textile bank. 

Discards

Koala pj trousers, worn out

S6614 v2 white sheeting top. Was really a trial being used as emergency pj's - I have enough pj's. 

Lots of shrunken socks. 

Cleared out a load of worn-out-fabric test garments from the 'maybe I'll do something with this' bag. They've had a garment life and then provided some useful learning, and now it's time to let them go to the textile bank.