Pleated pants NS258

You might remember I posted about multiple attempts at fitting trousers to my tilted pelvis. Not trivial. Well finally I have a pattern that fits, and a lovely pair of linen pants. I chose a pleated style because it provides some sitting ease at the tum, without adding much bulk when I'm standing. 

I'm describing them as sage, because they read as green in some lights, grey in others. It's a beautiful heavy weight fabric bought on Leeds market at least 5 years ago, that has been waiting for me to acquire the skills to do it justice.

Apologies that these are not properly pressed. Photos were taken before the test wear, so I hadn't confirmed the final stitching lines. They were fine. 

I'm at least the third custodian of the pattern, out of print News of the World 258. Does my garment look like the envelope picture? Well as close as someone with my proportions ever will.

What changes did I make? 

Design wise, I widened the legs for summer comfort, and have replaced the pockets with a patch pocket (not yet attached) to simplify the fitting process. 

Fitting wise, I need a shaped waistband, changed leg angle, different crotch curve, widen side seam especially at mid/high hip. Replaced back dart with two much shorter ones. Widened back thigh for sitting comfort. Small dart over front hip bone. There's a fuller list in my sewing diary. You'll get the picture that I'm nowhere near a standard shape, even though I believe I'm not unusual. 

Here's my pattern pieces overlaid on the original, folded to size 14. The angle on the centre back seam is from a previous fitting attempt, at the position of a knobbly vertebra. 

You'll see that I needed three shorten lines, 4" altogether. There's one stupid mistake - that somewhere during the trial process I lost part of the fly facing - which I had to work round. But mostly the differences are the sticky-out bones at front high hip, and the bony ridge at the same height all round the back. The sticky-out tum is mostly a consequence of sway back. I angled the zip to make room for it, rather than insert into a curved line.

At the end of all this, and after a full day's test wear, I'm really pleased that I can stand, sit or stroll in these. Yes, all three!

As a bonus, two of the toiles (muslins) are fit for pj's. The mint sheeting pair has been a favourite while we've experienced two hot weeks. That's probably the British summer for this year. 

Hope you're comfortable where you are. 

Things I chose not to do this June

Sometimes it's interesting to think about what projects and tasks you choose not to do, as well the ones you tackled. Some are turned down when your materials aren't quite right (no crochet cuffs in a lightly twisted yarn). Some you realise why they don't need fixing (unusually long sleeves on a woven pj top can stay, for warmth because I sleep with arms crossed ).

There were some chunky challenges I fancied doing this month, but settled for a fraction of each. 

Me Made May 2023. Considered doing this with the same theme as last year (let's assess). I was still in the cool weather clothing till the end of May, though. And when the sun arrived in June,  I realised that the verdicts would be much the same as last year. The smaller thing worth doing was a summer sort. I got rid of a handful of items, including (sadly) the two peach and white raindrop print tees which were Very Regularly worn. And I've put something in my detailed notes about the odd new item. 

Sew What You Need in June 2023. This challenge sounds like the perfect follow up to Me Made May. But bother, I have too many things in progress* to take it on. I am, though, working on basic necessaries: woven trousers that fit when standing, walking and sitting, fussily I want comfort all the time; a basic tee with the right amount of movement ease for me; and a semi-fitted woven long sleeved top. The trousers and tee are at the confirmation test stage, maybe needing 1/8" tweaks. The woven top will need at least one more toile (muslin) before I use good fabric.

* You'll have to wait for month roundup to find out how I got on. 

Great British Sewing Bee. I've often fancied taking on the construction challenges as a skill builder. Not in front of the cameras, and not under that time pressure. In my fantasy, these fit H who is petite but needs few other fitting changes. I did manage a boxy top for her, reading the instructions and taking no short cuts. The trial garment would have been good enough if it hadn't been made of worn-out sheeting. She was happy with the real thing (seabird print quilting cotton, K6217). Success! 

Is anyone else tempted by month long challenges? Do you ever try to do something even when you choose not to do the whole thing? Do you count it as a small success? 

2023 May roundup

Managed to stay in my own nest a bit more this month. That means less knitting and more sewing. 

The main project has been many toiles (muslins) in prep for some summer trousers. Two of the five have been good enough for pyjamas. The final one is also fit for pj's, and is close enough to transfer final changes to the flat pattern and make a good tracing. 

The Teal Hermia summer cardigan has moved slowly. I didn't have enough yarn after all, but the contrast stripes look good on the sleeves. One cuff, one quarter sleeve, and the lower quarter bodice to go. 

The cheerful Teddy was finished, and is looking for a home. A baby hat just needs casting off, when I dig out an odd bigger needle to do so. 

Repairs. 

Removed the wobbly patch from the event shirt, it needs a firmer fabric anyway. 

Stitched down the sleeve ties on a rtw dress, they'll never stay in place otherwise. 

Adapted the old sofa throw for the new sofa, which of course is a slightly different shape. 

In the household, yet again I cleared out all the small stuff from my living room/work area whilst a job was done. But this time I'm not allowing myself to bring anything back until it has been assessed, cleaned, and has a proper place to live. There are still a dozen shoe boxes to check, however the task is mostly done. 

A tale of many toiles (muslins)

Fitting a rump is hard! For comfort, the trousers have to fit both standing (without sagging) and sitting (needing extra ease). 

Two tips I wish I'd known earlier. Put a temporary button and loop on, rather than trying to always pin in a consistent place. And stitch unadjusted seams with a toning thread, but put changes on with a contrast thread - so that I can undo the change, or bring it forward to the next version. 

Version 1 and 2 happened in April - starting with a skirt, adding leg extensions, and refining. Version 3 was cut calf length, blue ex-duvet cover leftovers. It sagged and bagged, but has been worn comfortably as pjs. Version 4, leftovers from the island dress, is less baggy and has been worn once comfortably as pjs. Both of these are only calf length, due to limited fabric, but are long enough to test with bended knees. 

Most of the changes were additions to the rump and upper inseam, then removing excess from the outseam. 

I prepped a new pattern from v4 for version 5, but have obviously missed something. Made it up full length, from a slightly damaged mint sheet. I made a quarter inch fisheye dart at the front waist, and added a little more width at lower cb rump. 

As at 31 May, I'm switching between removing 1/4"x2 from the cb seam at the waist, or the same amount split between the side seams. Also considering how much to lift at back waist, and across what width. Think there might be an adjustment at inner knee, too. 

The front is fairly good, the back I feel I'm just moving fabric from one wrong place to another. I hope D comes to knitting club tomorrow - she has a good eye for these things.

Edit 29 June. 

D made a couple of good suggestions. 

Here's photos of v3, v4 and v5