Tuesday 30 April 2024

2024 Mid-March to end April

Spring is stuttering in, and I've washed and put away all the coldest-weather clothing. Layers of mid-weight will do for a while.

Slowing down on the knitting, but enjoyed working with the Manx loaghtan wool (rare breed undyed) as the hat grew in odd short spurts. Two concerns: Playing yarn chicken. Would there be enough to finish? And is it big enough? I checked tension and the pattern suggests it should stretch to fit. First wear before it was blocked, and it crept upwards. Better after wet blocking. 

Unusually, my train-journey bag has crochet for two community arts projects. Poppies for a Remembrance Day exhibition, commemorating service folk and civilians. And granny squares raising awareness for maternity provision - or lack of it - worldwide. I'll use all my red black and pink yarn leftovers for these projects, and get back to selfish knitting and baby hats later in the year. 

Sewing. Last month's plum self-drafted skirt has had a surprising number of wears, as an extra layer over pj's in the early morning or late evening. As a personal preference, I get on better with a hoodie rather than a big-sleeved dressing gown while doing first- and last-thing jobs. The trial skirt isn't brilliant fabric, but it is keeping my legs warmer. 

A shirt for H had reached the head of the queue last blog post. V1 Simplicity 9210 in old sheeting had to wait for a wear test (Spoiler: it passed with very few changes). 

Whilst waiting I adapted ancient News of the World NS258, made successfully in linen last year, for stretch ponte (antique gold from Marshside), cut out and accepted up to the waistband. Since I need a curved or darted front waist at that height, I wanted to check how my pattern lines up with the darts before finishing. 

Then H came back from her trip. V1 trial shirt needed small tweaks to sleeve length etc, but drapes beautifully around her neck and shoulders. Cut out V2 Simplicity 9210 in constellation print cotton poplin from Croft Mill.(UK readers, H studied a while at Jodrell Bank observatory, so you'll understand why this fabric was for her.) Finished, tested, and pattern changes made. She is really happy with the finished shirt. 

The antique gold ponte pants NS258 have their hem and waistband. Yes, the top of the band does indeed need to be 3" smaller than the base an inch below. Had to take them in, cos the trousers were Toulouse, as the old joke goes. Kidding apart, I'm pretty pleased with them as secret pyjamas. The bonus is that they go well with the duck-print jacket that I wear to technical meetings in summer. 


Repairs done. 
H's dark floral shirt, shorten at hemline to 23" below high shoulder point.
Plum skirt, take in an inch at waist. Then another! 
White floral shirt - shorten sleeves 3" or 3.5", taper to original cuffs, so lose 1" wrist circumference. Added 1" darts front and back. Added shoulder darts, taking in 1". Repair frayed buttonhole. Hmm, maybe it would be quicker to make a new one, however I learned better fitting and a new-to-me cuff placket. 
Replace drawstring and toggle on grey/turquoise backpack. 
Bra extender added to old but barely-used reserve white rtw - stitched on to survive washing machine. (The good bras are handwashed.) 
Some household repairs too, principally fixing a partially blocked drain before it became completely blocked. 


Chose not to do:
Take out excess below front waistband neon cycle shorts.  

I've added a discards section to my diary. Hoping items will mostly be worn out after many wears, rather than shopping mistakes. The 2014-ish navy and white raincoat must have had hundreds of wears and a couple of reproofing runs before finally biting the dust when the zip broke. Not worth unpicking when cuffs etc are almost worn through. 
The other category I'm happy to discard is wildcard buys from charity shops*. If the peasant style top with dark peach and dark sage flowers had worked out with my mature figure... I'd been unsure whether the style was too young, but the actual issue was that lower-cut backs fall off my sloping shoulders. For a couple of quid to a good cause, and better understanding, I'm not unhappy to discard i.e. donate it unaltered to another charity shop nearer me. 
* Very few fitting rooms nowadays, and in this case there's a rail journey to take the top back. 

Candidates for next time? Maybe see if I can get a skirt from the leftovers antique gold ponte. 
I want to restart the woven shirt/top. I have some adorable chicken print poplin and a trial top fitting from last year, though hadn't decided on sleeve and neckline to showcase the print. 
Depending on my non-crafty commitments, I'd also like to think about top and underlayers. Fit a sleeveless top to double as a cami, and maybe a cardi that fastens at centre front. UK summers are as unpredictable as our springs. 
The Rolls-Royce item, a raincoat that fits me, is still in daydreaming stage rather than planning. 

    

Sunday 17 March 2024

2024 February and early March

So, what's been happening chez mouselet in the last month and a half? 
Hooks and needles still turning out small things for donation. The last of the lilac 4ply was crocheted into a baby hat, ribbed with a dark rose, and there was just enough lilac for a shell edging. With purple dk made fingerless mitts (thumb holes but not thumb extensions, blue skies and dragonflies pattern) to match last month's socks. And the very last of the purple dk, supplemened with white ribbing, became a 6-month hat that matches mitts and socks. 

A present for K on her allotment, a beanie in kingfisher colours, Teddy Navajo Aran. 

And prepping the next handbag size project, I've chosen needles and pattern - yes after knitting a tension square - to use the gorgeous undyed Manx loaghtan (rare breed sheep) 4ply that I brought home from the island last autumn. 

A little sewing... 
2024 v1 from ancestor pattern So Zo cami, in reused dark blotchy print. Reusing a somewhat altered pattern from a couple of years ago and what I've learned since then. Interesting, I added a horizontal dart at lower shoulder blade, and it fits well now, is very comfy, but wants an extra quarter inch coverage for my winter bras. And just a little more length for waistline warmt. 

Also for me, v1 of a self drafted knit underskirt with a little bit of flare, made from bargain box plum jersey. The front waistband needed a bit more 'curvature' to stay up well, a consequence of my sway back. However, I am happy enough with fit now that I'm ready to lengthen the pattern an inch, and cut better fabric for a spring skirt. 

And started a more complicated sewing project, prepped a shirt pattern for H. It's mid-nineties Simplicity 9210, design your own shirt. So old they have reused the pattern number. V1 is made up in a worn-out sheet. First fitting and a recent try on look pretty good, but she hasn't done a proper wear test yet for those last quarter inch adjustments. 

Repairs? fixed popped seams and loose buttons. Took in stretched elastic, clipped wide elastic on pj's to clear my hip bone. Added a strip to office chair seat cover to stop it working loose. 

I think you can guess the plans for the rest of March. Into April, maybe I'll tempt fate by replacing summer clothes - lost sunhat, outgrown dress etc. 
    

Friday 2 February 2024

2024 January roundup

January projects, on the whole, were handbag sized knitting and crochet for donation. Mostly booties, with one pair of sleep socks for a toddler. Theme was different styles - sole first, toe first, top down Not in photo, a bonus pair of toe up crochet preemie booties, already donated. Haven't seen a pattern for crochet top down yet, and there are still crossover and granny square designs to try. 
I'd wanted to see whether I still enjoy crochet (I do, though it's harder on my eyes than knitting.) Also, to have a go at knitting both classic heel methods, before I choose yarn and pattern for a grown-up size later in the year. 
I'm also pondering hybrid travel slippers for myself - crochet sole in chunky or doubled yarn for insulation, knit uppers for packing, and because I prefer knitted rib. There are always more projects to try. 

The only sewing project was another pair of cycle shorts, in inherited neon jersey  whichbreathes a little. No, not as exercise wear - for me a bike is transport - but as  an underlayer. I had a week away from home, variable temperatures, and the extra layer worked when going from snow to shirtsleeves. I'm also happy to add my much altered https://www.patternsforpirates.com/product/peg-legs/ pattern to the T&T* list. The bad news? Now I want to buy fabric for leggings, to try the gusset versions, to try colour blocking, loads of options. 
* T&T - tried and tested, tried and trusted, tried and true. A pattern you have made your fit adjustments to, and need to mostly think about fabric behaviour when you make up.. 


Saturday 6 January 2024

2023 review, 2024 plan

Every year I aspire to complete items from the queue, polish my techniques, improve my fitting, and learn lots of new things. These are not SMART goals, but saying them out loud helps me choose projects that will take me in the right direction.
So how did I get on? 

Using up, adapting or finishing off:

The Finchdale set-in sleeve jumper was finally finished. Much better fit than Rtw, but will do less scoop at neck and a wider lower edge another time. 
The Hermia v-neck raglan cardigan used not quite enough charity shop merino yarn. Fits well, but with v-neck and cropped length, it'll work from late spring. 
Legwarmers for J, for September birthday girl, and for me, all from leftover/reused materials. Pattern is good for the future. 
Tech knitter's scrappy tam, mostly wool, from the hip section of a long-abandoned jumper. A bit loose in the band, but so cosy. Worn very often, will be repeated.
Wristwarmers from leftover sock yarn, and reknitted uncomfy too-wide mittens. A few more rows added to my old legwarmers and wristwarmers. 
There were more knit baby hats for donation, either my leftovers or grab bags of part balls from charity shops. 
Trying crochet after a long gap, a top down hat in sock yarn with knitted rib worked. (I pulled out the round-the-post crochet as too busy-looking in this colourway and perhaps too bulky) Not sure the crochet booties in DK are suitable for tinies, whether the hook holes are going to be trouble for delicate toes. I want to try booties again with finer yarn and a smaller hook. Or make 6-9 month size for not-quite walking kids. 

The fitting project 
Tee from ancestor pattern Tilly and the Buttons Freya. Lots more trial and tweaks - think the balance between movement ease and appearance is now about right. In any case, I have plenty of good enough tees and pj tops for 2024.
Woven trousers from ancestor News of the World NS258. One good pair made in Sage linen. The many trial pairs became summer pj pants. 
Joggers from ancestor pattern Successful Sewing 8. My version of SS8 is good now with grain lines, and fits at thigh, high and low hip. Still needs more adaptation at elastic waist for my abrupt curves. 

Not done
Fitting a skirt using what I've learned from trousers. Attempts from recycled materials failed, one because the fabric was more damaged than I'd realised, the second hadn't enough fabric as I prefer A-line to columns on my figure. I did confirm my preferred length below knee but not below calf. Might try again once it's warm enough for bare legs. 
Finish summer handbag from 2021 course. 
Refashioning? Tried to make something of the event badged polo-shirts, but they weren't the right shape for me. One has been kept as sleepwear,with a patch over the logo, the rest donated. 
Woven shirt fitting. I was almost ready to cut into good fabric after more trials in reclaimed gingham. Using Burda 8957, fitting help from Mrs Mole, and mashed up with the Betty Foster master for long sleeves. Then my non-crafty project arrived, and the colder weather. Try again in the summer. 

Planning. 
Did some thinking about needs using themes of Function, Fitting, Finishing and Fun. My wardrobe holes, in no particular order are (some still) 

Formal-ish dress to replace 2019 double jersey Freya (now tight)
Another pair warm office trousers. There are some nice inherited suiting lengths waiting. 
Woven shirt, from cheerful prints or the gingham that goes with the sage linen.
A denim skirt or pinafore - the fabric piece is not quite long enough for jeans.
More cycling shorts as undertrousers, maybe wear them under the denim skirt. 
Another camisole or two or three. 
Pattern test and make up the mouse quilting fabric waistcoat. 
I'm using more busy trains, and my old masks are scruffy.
Replace summer pair of tired joggers.
Gifts - top and dress for H in 2023. She has chosen fabric for next summer.

This lot, plus any repairs, should keep me occupied in 2024!