Saturday 18 June 2022

2022 May - mostly small steps forwards

What got finished:
Stopped tinkering with the sage green French Terry jacket. It drapes better now and has been worn with only positive comments from friends and acquaintances. Perhaps I'm being fussy when I would like it 1/2" longer and with smoother sleeves.

Knitted seat belt padding. I rarely travel by car. However, being a petite person, when I do, seat belts catch on my neck. DD took me to Anglesey to try see Puffins, and we did see an Osprey, a wild Peregrine, some seals and lots and lots of lovely creatures, plants and scenery. A 5" by 3" rectangle, plus a band with two button holes, helped a lot. 

Updated the croquis. New photos, and a new tracing of my outline, which is diverging even further from the 'standard' templates. Used the croquis to work out the stripe placement on a planned cardi*. And to see whether it was worth altering a tee shirt with an added band - I prefer with, but not enough to risk spoiling what I have.
*Amazing DD and DH replanned the outward journey to our holiday cottage once they knew there was an even bigger branch of a fabric shop en-route. Three cuts of fabric and some haberdashery were added to our luggage.

Repairs and alterations As part of the Me Made May review,  apart from assorted tiny repairs, I was mostly trying to deal with the armpit wedgie which I think is due to my increasing upper spine curvature.

Tea pot print shirt. Released a vertical dart into a pleat, much more comfy.
White plissé Freya. Let out at junction of armscye and sleeve seam. 
Paisley Freya. Used seam allowances to add 1/8" x4 at notch height.  However, until friction soreness from the weekend subsides, it's not useful to tinker more. 
Paisley Mica. Permanently stitched the hem. 

Slow knitting: 
Talvi sleeves are progressing slowly, horseshoe scarf even more slowly. I'm optimistic about both, but am sewing more than knitting this month, and am joining in with a community outdoor project. 

And now I've got some oomph back, there's a backlog of household tasks, mostly just cleaning and fixing up, to do. 

Thursday 2 June 2022

Me Made May 2022 - How are we doing?


This year for Me Made May I attempted  to bring out appropriate items for my May activities, prioritising Me-Made or significantly refitted, and assess them after a full day's wear.   


Temperatures have been in mid to high teens most of the month, so hot weather clothes will have to wait to be assessed in June. Unusually this month, I made several long car journeys as a passenger, fell asleep sitting, and  my underarms became quite tender - could have been any of my layers or the seat belt. I may have falsely accused some garments as the discomfort lasted a few days. 

The summary of what I wore and what I found is probably more useful than the details. Here goes:
 
Things that I've worn in May, and reach for all the time 
Me Made Tees. Long sleeves. Slightly scooped or high V. Length just above low hip - though I get some use from tees 6" below waist. Lighter colours will be better once the sunny days arrive. Some tees are tired-looking, one has shrunk and could do with an underarm gusset if I can find the scraps. Verdict: Make more. 


Sturdy trousers. The thick cotton blue camo fabric from Leeds Market is perfect for walking in spiky vegetation and in most weather. If you know the Southport tide range, you'll get the joke about hi-vis beach wear. 
Verdict: Make more. (My fitting has improved since I made these)
 
Joggers. Me made sage French Terry pair, very comfy though a little short. Can I add cuffs? One thin Rtw pair, unaltered, terrible drape at back but good range of motion and doesn't chafe anywhere - worn regularly for tai chi. Two thick Rtw pairs with added fabric between high hip and waistband, need a long top to cover the too visible alterations but no longer chafe. Worn all winter and at beginning of May.
Verdict: Ready to make more - I've pattern tested using thin poly/silk paisley Jersey, but it's been too cold to give them a full day trial. 

Eccentric me-made semi-fitted trousers. Two pairs from a damaged border print duvet, intended as pattern testing, but so comfy I wore them lots last summer.
Not tested yet this year: me made wool silk trousers from vintage gifted suiting. These were lovely in the heat last year, and whilst I can get a better drape with the now-updated pattern, I'll keep these until they wear out. 
Verdict:  Make more in linen (already bought) and more in the inherited suiting fabrics for autumn/winter.



Things that I've worn in May, but reluctantly.
Long sleeved RTW woven shirts, mostly from charity shops, cut for straighter backs than mine. Despite attempted alterations, all rub at underarms. Not enough back width although shoulders too wide. Last surviving office shirt (teapot print), plaid overshirt, new-to-me check button down shirt. 
A 3/4 sleeve blue floral is looser cut, just about acceptable though I prefer full length for sun protection. 
Verdict: Keep the plaid temporarily, for medical visits - the sleeves roll up all the way. Start pattern testing an office shirt and an overshirt 

.Rtw trousers are cut for flat tums and low hip bigger than high hip. My measurements are the other way round, so choices are to buy big enough at HH and take in elsewhere, or to buy tight and too long, using excess fabric to patch in at high hip and below cf waist. Hence I occasionally dare buy from charity shops and alter. The ancient red linen pair with a yoke are just about acceptable after moving buttons, they droop a little but don't chafe too badly. The beige cotton linen pair droop, despite waistband tucks and a dart near the inseam. Blue canvas might be salvageable with an insert below front waistband. The beige linen pair with tucks in the waistband have finally given up the ghost..
Rtw Beige silk trousers (gift), shortened and taken in at waist. Sad at the back hem after many outings, but so good to wear in mild to hot weather. Does everyone have this conflict between long enough to stride out in but short enough to stand and cook in? 
Verdict: try to salvage blue canvas pair, make two replacement linen pairs that fit. Don't yet have the skills to make an equivalent silk pair. Need more practice.

Indoor/outdoor layers, every one of them reluctantly worn. At this time of year I mean cardigans or  thin jumpers (sweaters) to wear in the house in morning and evening, and to slip on against wind chill if going out. The winter ones are somewhat better.
Me made brown bomber jacket was a trial from gifted flawed baize - not intended as a garment fabric at all. It's comfy, has a fastenable opening at centre front, and is a good weight for a spring cardi or summer jacket. Although it's been worn loads of times, I'm always aware of the poor finishing from three years ago, and the visible flaw in the sleeve. 
Emergency purchase when away from home, old RTW boxy burgundy rib swamps me at shoulders and arm length but was smallest size that went over high hip. Despite restitching sleeves with double turned cuff so my hands show, it still feels like the least bad of a poor bunch, all that was available at that point in the retail cycle.
Grey workwear fleece, sleeves shortened and underarms eased. Although good fabric and the same size looked great on my colleague, this never fitted me well. The zip finally died this May, and I'm not going to replace it.
Ancient black thin fleece pj top, worn as sweater. 21.5" wide at back underarm, 20" around armholes. Loose enough not to rub, fitted enough not to bury me. Good indoors, black is too hot in sun. 
Recent trial cardi, rescued sage French Terry from failed boxy jacket. Nice fabric, not a bad fit, but I feel meh in it, The hang of the patchworked sleeves maybe? Or just my attitude to too many attempts with this material?
Verdict: keep trying based on sage trial cardi. I have a leftover that will probably do a trial bodice and another for a trial sleeve. Then some thinner French Terry for a summer layer if that test is successful.

 And the supporting stuff... 
The waterproof coat is cold when wet, remember to take an underlayer. 
Showerproof coat will do another year, but I'd prefer deeper armholes. 
Plenty of knicks and socks - have disposed of some worn ones. 
One formal bra, one supportive, one much-altered and scruffy but comfy, one scratchy spare. That's enough in cold or mild weather. Worn out ones disposed of. The hot weather ones, me made or altered to have cotton front bands haven't been worn yet this year. 
Plenty of scarves, need to finish the cream horseshoe one on the needles. 
Everyday handbag and formal handbag still good. 
Recent gift of cloth bag (lovely sketch of collie) gives me enough shopping bags with right sized handles, Can get rid of the scruffy ones. Have added a zip pocket to the Swiss cheese bag for keys etc. 
Shoes: One pair formal probably OK, one pair formal to dispose of. Trainers well used but not a great fit - though I'll be extremely lucky to find a sturdy pair in half-size narrow-heel wide-front. Two pairs of sandals will probably do another year - they were good all last summer. Flip flops for summer house shoes are still good, warm slippers are put away till autumn. 
The me-made pjs are still fine, though I'd missed trimming one of the armscyes (oops), no wonder the other top was always my first choice. All the Rtw pj trousers have been altered at some stage to raise the elastic above my protruding hip bones. The llama jamas are my comfiest, with a 24" back at armscye bottom, cuffs at wrist and ankle. 
Summer dressing gown is much too tight now, but has nostalgia value so I wear it anyway. Can I add a band down the sideseams? Fluffy hoodie used as winter dressing gown is put away till autumn.

Mostly Me Made Underlayers. Me made cycling shorts for extra warmth and to reduce friction with Rtw trousers. Altered Rtw leggings with an added tummy panel are ok when all shorts are in the wash. I'm homing in fitting a camisole underlayer - this year's are a better fit, however the plissé leftovers are a bit bulky under mild weather clothes. Verdict: Make more.