Tuesday, 28 April 2026

Not Me Made May

Rather than committing to Me Made May this year, I did a clothes sort and have either completed or gathered materials for small repairs or stain treatments. 

I still have about the right number of clothes for my environment and lifestyle (about 50 items) in styles and colours that work for me. However, some of them are wearing thin (mostly the plain ones). Also last year's wearable toiles were deliberately in less favoured fabrics.

I would like to buy more clothes ready made, since I'm a slow sewer. It's difficult, though, when you're petite with a pronounced curve to the spine. For example I have more bone at high hip than the standard mannequin has - definitely not a flat front. 

Ready mades
Unusually this year, I found three Rtw garments which are loose enough for comfort. All three look OK from the front. 
The cream cardigan was a good style for me, the large collar balances the big turn ups I have to fold on cuffs. However the soft yarn kept felting with loose fibres from adjoining garments. So it made it to the office only once and is now demoted to everyday.  
The brushed poly top is warm and comfortable. It's had a couple of dozen wears under a jumper, but I fear the soft fabric will probably only look good for another dozen or so wears. The horizontal stripes emphasise the poor fit at upper back - it was probably intended for someone with squarer shoulders. 
Most upset about the blue corderoy tiered dress, which is a nice style and fabric weight for Spring and Autumn. Since the side seams pulled forward at the lower ribs, the back looked awful. I tried to rescue by pinning darts at underarms, didn't work because my ribs flare not taper at underbust. Then tried pinning darts just above the waist. Actually I needed to raise the whole waistline above the swayback to avoid stress lines from back neck to front hip. It was a pain to unpick all those lines of stitches. However I will now choose the modified dress more often. 

Remodelling 
I made one major change to an existing me-made, a brown raglan jacket made some years ago when first learning about fitting. The fabric was leftover from a friend's craft project, but a useful weight for summer. The ancestor pattern was Successful Sewing 8, mine turned out as a sort of long bomber jacket. Unfortunately the jacket felt meh in its proportions on me, and I had to regularly replace the lowest popper which strained when sitting. I removed the hem band and the lower darts to give a straighter somewhat cropped jacket. Would have taken it even shorter if it were not for the pockets. It's still not a great fit, but is better on my petite frame, and is likely to be chosen more often after not a great deal of work. 

Recent me-mades 
February teal cords are a firm favourite. First choice off the clean washing pile for warmth, shape and comfort.
March chocolate brown trousers are a good office choice, or for any semi-formal day with only the odd half-hour walking. The thick fabric is a little stiff at the seams and hence a bit scratchy for a city walks. I think this version needs tiny changes to deal with increasing stretch throughout the day. 
April Morris-esque print jacket, not yet blogged, was very comfortable for travelling and city walks. I also felt suitably dressed for a classical concert and dinner. This version of the pattern is definitely worth tracing and making again in different fabric types.

Summer wardrobe gaps 
I have more brown-toned tops for the summer than bottoms. And more grey-blue trousers than tops. Both pairs of previous sand-coloured trousers are worn out. Despite poor Rtw fit on me, maybe I can find temporary light-weight trousers to take in at low hip or let out at high hip? Edit, end April, found some outdoor trousers size 14 which fit well in leg width and at low hip, but need waist expanding ie back darts reducing in length and width, and using side seam allowance to do the same to the 'waist darts' there. Of course they'll need shortening, and I'll either use what I cut off the length to add to the waistband, or maybe use the belt loop fabric. Not trivial, but a little quicker and cheaper than cutting and sewing a new pair. 

Ongoing
Continue working on a well-fitting tee. The last version, with ancestor pattern Freya from Tilly and the Buttons, was deliberately looser than the previous version, but ended up too wide on my neck, shoulders and biceps. Can I learn anything from the April jacket?
The last woven top, chicken print, feels fine but looks meh near my face. I now wonder if the V-neck was unsuccessful because of my asymmetric shoulders. Can I replace the front neck/yoke area with a round neckline?
What fabric do I have to make trial tops to look nice with any of the blue trousers? Or bottoms to go with favourite brown tops? 

Next year
The plain tops really do need replacing. Buy fabric once patterns are established. 

    

Friday, 17 April 2026

2026 March summary - chocolate brown trousers

Sewing 
Dark Chocolate office trousers. NL6130 V2 2026. 
I traced 2026v1 (teal cord pattern)  with ancestor NL6130 via TDCO process. When the inherited man-made length (possibly crimplene) was pre-washed, it shrank so much I reduced seam allowances to 3/8". The only fitting change was to increase the tum darts. However due to fabric limitations the waistband is narrow, pieced and backed with a different material. The patch pocket will only hold a house key and a train ticket. 
A slightly more difficult material than I've tackled recently. It frayed like mad, so I zigzagged extensively and treated the inseams as welt seams (top stitched to the back).
These have been fine around the office, They are not such nice fabric as the old favourites, but they are in better condition. 

Fitting 
A general thing to remember. The last three waistbands I have made were fine while trying on. And still are fine immediately after washing the garment. However, by lunchtime a very small horizontal stretch is a bigger vertical drop. No longer comfortable at the inseams. I need to set buttons etc a little on the tight side. Better to do that than move them a day or two later. 

Knitting/crochet 
Two 6" granny squares, one light green, one primrose, were edged in darker green. Ultimately to be used for a Christmas project by the knitting group. 

Finished a second hat a for homeless man, to be donated via the charity Shelter. Started a third. For a change, the last one  has a four section crown instead of my usual eight. Same stitch count, increase to 88st on 6mm needles, knit stocking stitch for a generous thumb length, one pair of short rows to warm ears and neck, then rib another inch or so on 5mm needles.

I needed a very lightweight project when carrying other stuff one day, so have cast on a preemie hat with tiny leftovers on the short 4mm bamboo dpns. The crown is white, in 5 sections double increase, and the stand is green 60 St's. 

Repairs
Restitched perished stitching on DH's trouser hem. 

Ages ago, I'd unpicked lettering from an event fleece jacket, and covered the logo with a star-splattered moon. This month I finally found and attached a little crochet cat. Silly, I know, but it balances the design. The fleece is a good weight for this weather - why not make it look fun rather than adequately rescued. 

Arrivals/departures
I'd thrown out a load of shrunken socks. Then DD decluttered and offered me half a dozen pairs in good condition. That gives me enough again. 
A friend who also has a tum disproportionate to her weight said maternity tights work well for her. I picked up an unused pair in a charity shop. When I got them out of the packet they were way too long, and too difficult to stretch to my waist measurement. They will be donated back, still unused. 

Next steps
Prepped the pattern S6614 cardigan, adding 1/4" at high shoulder point.