On the knitting front, I've struggled a bit. The Horseshoe scarf is supposed to be an easy project. My brain, though, was definitely still addled post-covid recovery. I did finish it, and prepped yarn for a proper version. But having lost momentum, I haven't started this or continued with the Talvi sweater. Mid-month, I finished the tiny cardigan in mint and purple. Started a preemie size hat with the remaining 25g or so, increasing to 56 sts before continuing straight. Finished May 1st, so let's include the hat in April too.
I'm running short of decent mild weather tops, and somehow refitting the familiar TATB Freya top pattern in stages has worked better than knitting. I'd planned one more attempt in a white plissé fabric, and found two bonus garments with the leftovers. Then, since we had more work in the flat, so I still couldn't unpack my fabric boxes, I thought I'd buy another metre of paisley grey brown plum poly silk to make a faux dress, when put with the March Freya and Mica tops. Impulsively, I bought 2m to see how I'd like a faux jumpsuit as well. Good move: the trousers took just over a metre, the skirt a little less. And got a bonus garment from the paisley - more on that later.
The white plissé jersey has a zigzag border. To make the most of it, I cut out a TATB Freya top with a front skirt* and a plain back. I'd toyed with the idea of statement sleeves, but decided to go with plain and a necklace as more versatile. Tweaked the sleeves, and finally rotated them to the angle of my own arms. Is there a Forward Arm Adjustment in the catalogue? Over the next few weeks, I adjusted the lower hip, having cut out the dress shape not the top. I quite like the flare at this length, but a flaw in the border at the side seam was affecting the drape. I also reshaped the skirt seam twice, to sweep lower. Another time I would attach lower than the waist, to give the choice of tucking into a skirt.
* to avoid a curved edge for the border.
There was enough plissé from the other selvedge end for a long cami mashed from the So Zo vest and the TATB Freya. Since I'd just worked on fitting the Freya, I used this below the armpit and, roughly, the SoZo Vest shape above. This version had the FBA eased in, rather than darting it. The body sewed together beautifully - however I hadn't taken account of the plisse expanding when pressed. Still 'need more practice' pressing the binding to shape. But, unlike last year's vest attempt, there are no stitching gaps attaching it.
All that was left of the white plissé jersey was a 40" x 20", a 6" x 18" ish and some hand sized scraps. If I pieced the back near one sideseam, surely I could get a short cami mashed from the So Zo vest and the TATB Freya? There was just enough! Did a better job easing front to back, and a better job pressing against a rolled cloth. The binding still needs more practice, though.
After a photo session, I continued to tweak all four Freya descendants. Though I notice today folding clean laundry that the Mica hem is still only tacked (hand-basted) up. Oops.
Mid-month decided it was the time of year for moving the cold weather clothing to less accessible drawers, and trying on the mild weather clothing to see what still fits. As usual, the quantity is fine, though there are too many near orphans, and some items show their dozens of wears. The detail is in my diary, and may feed into my Me Made May verdicts, too. I did take action on remodelling the teapot shirt to remove a dead collar and remodel the worn-out cuffs. A few more minor repairs happened too. Still thinking about the two mid-grey short sleeved tees. These barely get used as we rarely get hot overcast weather here. Can I use one to make long sleeves for the other?
Came back to the paisley grey brown plum poly silk fabric. After playing with layouts to use New Look K6217 trousers, I decided the darted waist wouldn't be good with this print anyway. Toyed with the idea a thin cardigan, too. But in the end plumped for an ancient joggers pattern, Successful Sewing 8 (henceforth SS8) combined with a Freya-derived skirt. I was pleased with the low-waste solution - a CB seam and a non-obvious change in print orientation was a compromise worth paying for a bonus garment rectangle. Both projects are more wearable toiles rather than office or formal clothing.
With the SS8 gathered trousers, I fixed some grainline and shaping (fit) issues which had annoyed me on the last iteration. When sewing together, I realised I have relapsed into the habit of rushing fabric through the feed dogs. When what I actually want to do is support and steer the fabric, but let the feed do the work. Bother! One leg puckered and had to be redone. I've still to test wear for a day - too cold so far - but borrowed them as emergency pj trousers and they were really comfy overnight and at breakfast. Next time, I'd like to try wider elastic rather than what was accessible this month.
The Freya-based skirt needed some changes at the waist - a dress doesn't need the same support. Since I don't currently have a well-fitting skirt, this is likely to get a lot of wear, with either of the matching tees or any of my black, white or grey tees. This info also fed back into my main Freya tracing in the abdomen area.
And the bonus garment? Patterns For Pirates Peg Legs cycle shorts in pieces of paisley - a patchwork project. As well as solving piecing problems, I'm still trying to get relative heights at back front and side seams right. I am happy that I improved the fit, especially around the waistband, but still have some grainline issues and leg length (at inseam relative to outseam) to solve. These have been tested as undertrousers for a full day, including a Tai Chi session - and are even nicer to wear than last year's pairs.
And the capsule? I'd thought to pattern test, making a faux dress and a faux jumpsuit**, plus a top for a cooler weather formal occasion. The bonus garments were great for refining fit and feeding it back into my tracings. I was pleasantly surprised at the combinations. From the paisley, a Mica Tee and Freya Tee, SS8 gathered trousers, a Freya skirt and Peg Legs shorts. From the white plissé, a Freya Tee and a long and a short cami. From older makes, a white jersey Mica Tee and Freya Tee. Add RTW or much altered RTW, a black long-sleeved tee, beige silk trousers, a black light-weight fleece, two grey short-sleeved tees, and a Chanel-shaped unlined jacket. Sounds like a great combination for a city break, when that becomes easier.
**I've still to make up by mind on the faux jumpsuit, preferring the patterned trousers with a plainer top. But love the skirt with plain or a either matching tee. We haven't had any hot weather yet, so don't know how well the poly/silk will breathe. Fingers crossed everyone.
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