Thursday 1 June 2023

A tale of many toiles (muslins)

Fitting a rump is hard! For comfort, the trousers have to fit both standing (without sagging) and sitting (needing extra ease). 

Two tips I wish I'd known earlier. Put a temporary button and loop on, rather than trying to always pin in a consistent place. And stitch unadjusted seams with a toning thread, but put changes on with a contrast thread - so that I can undo the change, or bring it forward to the next version. 

Version 1 and 2 happened in April - starting with a skirt, adding leg extensions, and refining. Version 3 was cut calf length, blue ex-duvet cover leftovers. It sagged and bagged, but has been worn comfortably as pjs. Version 4, leftovers from the island dress, is less baggy and has been worn once comfortably as pjs. Both of these are only calf length, due to limited fabric, but are long enough to test with bended knees. 

Most of the changes were additions to the rump and upper inseam, then removing excess from the outseam. 

I prepped a new pattern from v4 for version 5, but have obviously missed something. Made it up full length, from a slightly damaged mint sheet. I made a quarter inch fisheye dart at the front waist, and added a little more width at lower cb rump. 

As at 31 May, I'm switching between removing 1/4"x2 from the cb seam at the waist, or the same amount split between the side seams. Also considering how much to lift at back waist, and across what width. Think there might be an adjustment at inner knee, too. 

The front is fairly good, the back I feel I'm just moving fabric from one wrong place to another. I hope D comes to knitting club tomorrow - she has a good eye for these things.

Edit 29 June. 
D made a couple of good suggestions. 
Here's photos of v3, v4 and v5

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