Pleated pants NS258

You might remember I posted about multiple attempts at fitting trousers to my tilted pelvis. Not trivial. Well finally I have a pattern that fits, and a lovely pair of linen pants. I chose a pleated style because it provides some sitting ease at the tum, without adding much bulk when I'm standing. 

I'm describing them as sage, because they read as green in some lights, grey in others. It's a beautiful heavy weight fabric bought on Leeds market at least 5 years ago, that has been waiting for me to acquire the skills to do it justice.

Apologies that these are not properly pressed. Photos were taken before the test wear, so I hadn't confirmed the final stitching lines. They were fine. 

I'm at least the third custodian of the pattern, out of print News of the World 258. Does my garment look like the envelope picture? Well as close as someone with my proportions ever will.

What changes did I make? 

Design wise, I widened the legs for summer comfort, and have replaced the pockets with a patch pocket (not yet attached) to simplify the fitting process. 

Fitting wise, I need a shaped waistband, changed leg angle, different crotch curve, widen side seam especially at mid/high hip. Replaced back dart with two much shorter ones. Widened back thigh for sitting comfort. Small dart over front hip bone. There's a fuller list in my sewing diary. You'll get the picture that I'm nowhere near a standard shape, even though I believe I'm not unusual. 

Here's my pattern pieces overlaid on the original, folded to size 14. The angle on the centre back seam is from a previous fitting attempt, at the position of a knobbly vertebra. 

You'll see that I needed three shorten lines, 4" altogether. There's one stupid mistake - that somewhere during the trial process I lost part of the fly facing - which I had to work round. But mostly the differences are the sticky-out bones at front high hip, and the bony ridge at the same height all round the back. The sticky-out tum is mostly a consequence of sway back. I angled the zip to make room for it, rather than insert into a curved line.

At the end of all this, and after a full day's test wear, I'm really pleased that I can stand, sit or stroll in these. Yes, all three!

As a bonus, two of the toiles (muslins) are fit for pj's. The mint sheeting pair has been a favourite while we've experienced two hot weeks. That's probably the British summer for this year. 

Hope you're comfortable where you are.