2024 mid-and and late- October

Between too many treats (concert tickets, walks and lunches out) and peak demand from my non-crafty project, there were just a few days mid-month where I had sewing-sized gaps in the schedule. 

Knitting can be done in shorter sessions. Although the Mallard cardi just needs split hem completing, and a button band on, it's been kicked down the list by a request from H for legwarmers - she is down to her last pair. She is fitter than me, and needs 5 extra 4 stitch ribs around her calves compared with her ankles. I, who only run for trains and buses, need only 3 extra. She has chosen the Mallard merino leftovers. The first is done up to the last few rows at the top, and the second cast on ready to take on a journey later this month. 

As the warmer weather clothes get put away, I notice the older long sleeve tees are looking less than pristine. Not quite ready for recycling, however I dug out my best pattern, a much modified Tilly and the Buttons Freya tee. Used more of the Monet-esque blue floral poly to make 2024 v1, tweaked another 1/4" at armscye and neckline. I really like the fit now. It works with navy trousers, and also with the thin dragonfly-print royal blue trousers, made 2017 ish. Wouldn't usually wear two prints together, but think I can get away with these. 

Repairs done. 

Green seeds-print tank, 2018 ish, had been altered to fit, but some discomfort from squared off binding enclosed in the sideseam. I had just enough to butt up the binding slightly offset. Not the prettiest join, but now much softer and flatter. Comfy enough now to sleep in or wear all day.

A general check for popped seams. Causes? Forgetting to switch to zigzag on stretch fabrics. Older tees need more front armscye scoop and less at back (pattern now corrected) Laundry issue - arm or leg stitching can pop when extracting a too tightly packed load from washing machine,  remember to use a net bag. 

Household: Deep cleaned inside tumble dryer - including new-to-me lint hiding place. Deep cleaned sewing machine. 

 

For next month? I'm enjoying wearing the Manx loaghtan hat, but it would look even better with an oak leaf attached. 

Reknit two year old Talvi teal jumper with stretched out neckline?

One more Freya tee? A sewn fleece or French terry cardi? 

Revisit waist treatment on joggers, make another pair? 

The pillowcase Betty from last month is really comfortable. Can I find a better match for the yoke pieces, and get at least some wear from it? 

We'll see how much time I actually get! 

    

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2024 September and early October

 

Sewing Camisole in blue floral Monet-esque poly jersey. The pattern is a distant descendant of a SoZo download, now cropped to waistband height, raised at front for extra coverage, and slightly ruched back and front at sideseam for fit. Stayed nicely in place during a full day test wear. I added 1/4" length at cb to flat pattern, but can claim my version as a T&T now. 

Fitting. Played with draping with paper tablecloth, but got nowhere better than the Betty. Cut another Betty from an old pillowcase and some scraps. Various quarter inch tweaks, notably at yoke and lower shoulder blade height. Have adjusted the flat pattern, and worn this round the flat and as a pj top. Think this is my minimum ease woven top, now. Very comfy. There'll be another Betty from decent material in the spring. 

Knitting. Mostly finishing off or redoing stuff that was nearly right last time. 

Mallard cardigan extended below waist. With new yarn, have substituted the old contrast yarn with new main yarn but different dyelot. Sleeves are better length, hips better width, and now longer than before. Currently working on split hem just above sitting length, then only have button band to redo. 

E's hat, Mustard Aran. (delivered, explained to his mum that the seam can be adjusted to fit him) 

Poppies, all delivered. 

Unpicked wristwarmers (too loose) and reknit 4 St's narrower. That's better. 

Unpicked most of Manx yarn hat, have reknit stand wider and a little higher, and crown with extra yarn (it was a bit thicker and maybe stiffer than 4-ply usually is). Just need to close off last couple of dozen stitches now.. 

Christmas stocking decoration for knit'n'natter cafe. 

Repairs done. 

New swimsuit top taken in along band (I'm between L and medium size) 

DH's trouser button replaced, one restitched for safety. 

Overall (1980's!) let out

Rainbow legwarmers extended, but left the red pair for now. 

Take in red fleece trousers (yellow ponte pair can wait till spring) 

Let out mouse-print pj trouser elastic (my standard cf adjustment for Rtw) 

Strap fixed on mouse and poppies bag.  

Removed letters from black men's volunteering fleece (they didn't want it back) and put on a fabric patch to conceal the non-unpick-able logo. 

Tightened binding on chicken-print Betty 

New arrivals:

Thick soled trainers. 

Discards:

Ethnic print cardi, too small across back now. 

Pieced rugby shirt - scorched area still shows

    

2024 August summary

Not much sewing, but am happier with the chicken-print fabric Betty top. Problem with the shoulder area. Added length across back including scyes. Dropped the V another inch for better proportions. Even nicer now it has visible binding.

Knitting: the Newborn size pink hat is finished.

More poppies - they are an easy handbag size project. 

Unpicked the baby merino wristwarmers (too loose) and started to reknit 4 St's narrower. They are both about 6" long and I hope to get another inch on each. 

Repairs done. 

Shortened garden bird print tee for H. Unpicked top stitching at front neck and lowered the scoop 1/8" to compensate for stretching.

More popped seams restitched and two stretched neck lines elasticated (a more solid jersey than usual) 

Restitched press stud on brown jacket. This time it's the second down - the one I fasten when I want part open. 

Button restitched on navy canvas pants. 

Patched paisley cycle shorts (as temporary bikini bottoms, I'm going to see how I feel about swimming again)  

Retouched paintwork (a regular summer household task) 

Discards. The tan petite overshirt, new-to-me about 2015, now too tight across shoulders. Shame. 

Beige L-shaped scarf, can't get clean. But will use that shape again. 

Hoarded small fabric scraps. I've kept enough to do repairs on garments I still have, and a few child friendly pieces. Just in case. 

What else crafty? 

Spent way too much time watching historical /archaeological textile and garment videos. 

Started yet another fabric /yarn sift. We're not going to get trying-on weather this year. Only a couple of days over 20°C. So the next projects will need to be either already fitted patterns, or cardigans/top layers to be tried on over long sleeve tees. Which get scruffy quickly cos they fluffy and cosy,  so I run short of them quickly. 

 

    

2024 July summary

Mustard Aran hat, pre-teen size. I don't have measurements yet for this, so knitted flat from age suggestion and will choose seam style to adjust when his mum gets back to me. Length just touches tops of my ears, so ribbing  likely to turn up for him. 

Summer wrist warmers in light brown baby merino. An odd ball that's a really good match for my skin tone has been my travel project. Top down, 60 St's rib on 3.25mm dpns, thumbless, worked gusset down to 52 St's (though 48 would have been better). Both warmers worked down to the forearm so far.  I'm hoping for 8" to 10" length. Why for summer? So I can wear some of my nice short sleeve shirts and tees without scratching at my eczema. 

(EDIT Next time, on 3.25mm dpns, c/o 56St,, rib half an inch. Leaving a 4 st bridge, make thumb hole 1.5" deep. Reduce to 48st at wrist, and increase at forearm to 52 or 56 before edging below elbow. If I choose garter stitch edges for historical reasons, cast on 52 with fewer decreases below thumb.)

Only enough of the pink yarn left for a newborn hat. It's progressing slowly top down, but I've started the rib now. 

Test wears. Our part of the UK has been just outside the warmer air stream. On the couple of days above 20°C, the altered silk top was very comfy. The L shaped scarves worked as a extra layer as well as for sun protection. The white floral top and the new-to-me split sleeve tops are still waiting for a suitable occasion. 

The Mallard raglan cardigan made last year only works with a dress. Tracked down more yarn - and unfortunately it is less muted in colour. I need to knit up a sample to see if it will do for cuffs and bands - and if so can use the existing cuffs and bands to add an inch or so and bring it down to cover my skirt and trouser waistbands. 

No sewing. The Chicken-print fabric Betty top has been neglected in the hope of a warm and quiet day. (Edit. Fixed in early August) 

Possibles  -  same as last month

Repairs done. 

Only household e.g. tightened screws on frying pan. 

    

2024 June summary

Not a particularly crafty month, but some projects finished or moved forward. 

Knitting /crochet:

Delivered granny squares for the community arts project, then decided to make one more plain in flecked grey, then squeezed in a second from mixed leftovers (the octagon centre worked better than a square start). A couple more poppies added to the bag, too. These two projects are refreshing my crochet skills, and using up yarn unsuitable for baby clothes donations. 

One toddler size pink hat knitted, and started another. 

Sewing: Worked with chicken -print fabric for Betty top. It's the best fit yet for sleeves and mid-back. Ready for a test wear when summer arrives.  However I've cut the neckline too wide to stay in place and suspect it will soon be on the repair pile for a yoke to replace the neck area. 

Repairs:

Poppers on brown raglan cardi restitched - again. 

Rainbow legwarmers. Cut off shrunken wool extension (about 1") and added a burgundy acrylic stripe (about 1.5") to the top rib. 

Two long scarves made L-shaped for sun protection.  From a two-fabric charity shop find, one half beige gauze, the other ivory lace. 

Other crafty activities:

Sorted some inherited knitting needles, decided which to add to my own collection. Duplicates donated, well most of them :)  

Test wears - only the mustard brocade skirt which was fine for about town. We only have had one hot day here (in mid-twenties)  White floral shirt still awaits the sun. 

Chose not to do:

Sew what you need in June - already covered by existing plans. 

And what's are the probable projects for July? 

Make sure the tweaks to the Betty top are transferred to the flat pattern. 

Play with raising or narrowing the back neck so it doesn't slide down in wear. 

Handbag sized projects. I've done a load of crochet poppies, can I do some knit ones as well? Use the part ball of cotton yarn for (sun protection) gloves? 

Once happy with the Betty pattern, can I use what I've learned to reknit the top 6" or so of the Talvi 2022 or Finchdale 2023 jumpers? Or am I better making a fleece or brocade cardi first? I'm short of decent cardigans. 

Neither of my summer raincoats have hoods, can I do something about that? 

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2024 May summary, mostly repairs and rejigs.

At the start of the month, I was fitting. Working out how much to compensate for the waistband stretch on ponte pants. Also did another round of drape/pin/stitch/adjust on a defunct plaid shirt of DH's. This time I concentrated on underbust to hip, and have a better contour map to feed into my eventual (cough cough) well-fitting shell. The grand plan is to blend with a better shoulder area/upper back/armscye/sleeve cap, but for now I'll settle for a better waistband and yoke. 

Me-Made-May? Well, I told myself I'd skip this year, and just do a grand try-on instead. Unfortunately, my posture has deteriorated. Upper back is even wider and rounder, pelvis more tilted. A large bag of jackets and formal wear left the flat, including some favourites (sad). But I did find ways to rescue several of my me-mades and charity shop finds from the outbox. 

Firstly, another alteration round with two recent makes, where I hadn't compensated enough for the stretch fabric. 

Plum skirt, take in another inch. 

Ponte pants - split back darts into three  (1" taken in). Take 1/4" off all side seams, making another inch from waist. Hooray, they stay up well now. 

And then rejig older garments which I want to keep

Duck tee v1 and pale tan Freya v1 - fix tight front armscye by adding a back armscye dart and compensating with bust dart. Bonus - they don't roll to back so much, so necklines fit better. 

Add extra elastic on grey summer joggers.

Moved the zip across 1/2" on the camo trousers

Red plaid pj trousers, add 5" to elastic. No wonder they were uncomfy (I'm smallest at empire line so tight elastic creeps upwards) 

Bias cut sleeveless blue flowered dress - added dart to front and back below scye. No longer cuts into armpit. 

Paisley cycle shorts, restitched popped seam. Stole a little from seam allowance at tum and spine to give more ease at that height. 

Additional button hole made on white floral shirt, it's now suitable for the office

Has this worked? Yes, the rejigged trousers and tees are chosen again straight off the clean washing pile. Though it hasn't been warm enough yet to test the lighter clothes. 

Wardrobe: This year's sifts have left me short of summer office wear and of tidy everyday cardis. Which told me to reschedule... 

Sewing: A quick rectangle skirt from some gifted mustard brocade (Two seams to shape the waist elastic). It's passed its test wear round the flat, but awaits temperatures over 20° before it gets a full-day test. 

I finally checked sleeve and neckline pattern and cut out my chicken print fabric. 

Knitting:

Community Arts poppies, two last petals to go, and that's the last of my suitable yarn. 

Community Arts granny squares. Done but not delivered. 

Reduced band on red tam, started reknitting sides and crown. 

Household: . 

Tighten bolts on remaining living room furniture. 

Hanging loops on remaining bathroom towels 

And candidates for next month? 

Finish reknitting cherry scrappy tam, and the last poppy. Extend cherry legwarmers if I can. Then back to baby hats. 

Sew up the chicken print top, test the mustard skirt, and carry on with the fitting project. Surely it will feel warmer soon! 

    

    

2024 Mid-March to end April

Spring is stuttering in, and I've washed and put away all the coldest-weather clothing. Layers of mid-weight will do for a while.

Slowing down on the knitting, but enjoyed working with the Manx loaghtan wool (rare breed undyed) as the hat grew in odd short spurts. Two concerns: Playing yarn chicken. Would there be enough to finish? And is it big enough? I checked tension and the pattern suggests it should stretch to fit. First wear before it was blocked, and it crept upwards. Better after wet blocking. 

Unusually, my train-journey bag has crochet for two community arts projects. Poppies for a Remembrance Day exhibition, commemorating service folk and civilians. And granny squares raising awareness for maternity provision - or lack of it - worldwide. I'll use all my red black and pink yarn leftovers for these projects, and get back to selfish knitting and baby hats later in the year. 

Sewing. Last month's plum self-drafted skirt has had a surprising number of wears, as an extra layer over pj's in the early morning or late evening. As a personal preference, I get on better with a hoodie rather than a big-sleeved dressing gown while doing first- and last-thing jobs. The trial skirt isn't brilliant fabric, but it is keeping my legs warmer. 

A shirt for H had reached the head of the queue last blog post. V1 Simplicity 9210 in old sheeting had to wait for a wear test (Spoiler: it passed with very few changes). 

Whilst waiting I adapted ancient News of the World NS258, made successfully in linen last year, for stretch ponte (antique gold from Marshside), cut out and accepted up to the waistband. Since I need a curved or darted front waist at that height, I wanted to check how my pattern lines up with the darts before finishing. 

Then H came back from her trip. V1 trial shirt needed small tweaks to sleeve length etc, but drapes beautifully around her neck and shoulders. Cut out V2 Simplicity 9210 in constellation print cotton poplin from Croft Mill.(UK readers, H studied a while at Jodrell Bank observatory, so you'll understand why this fabric was for her.) Finished, tested, and pattern changes made. She is really happy with the finished shirt. 

The antique gold ponte pants NS258 have their hem and waistband. Yes, the top of the band does indeed need to be 3" smaller than the base an inch below. Had to take them in, cos the trousers were Toulouse, as the old joke goes. Kidding apart, I'm pretty pleased with them as secret pyjamas. The bonus is that they go well with the duck-print jacket that I wear to technical meetings in summer. 

Repairs done. 

H's dark floral shirt, shorten at hemline to 23" below high shoulder point.

Plum skirt, take in an inch at waist. Then another! 

White floral shirt - shorten sleeves 3" or 3.5", taper to original cuffs, so lose 1" wrist circumference. Added 1" darts front and back. Added shoulder darts, taking in 1". Repair frayed buttonhole. Hmm, maybe it would be quicker to make a new one, however I learned better fitting and a new-to-me cuff placket. 

Replace drawstring and toggle on grey/turquoise backpack. 

Bra extender added to old but barely-used reserve white rtw - stitched on to survive washing machine. (The good bras are handwashed.) 

Some household repairs too, principally fixing a partially blocked drain before it became completely blocked. 

Chose not to do:

Take out excess below front waistband neon cycle shorts.  

I've added a discards section to my diary. Hoping items will mostly be worn out after many wears, rather than shopping mistakes. The 2014-ish navy and white raincoat must have had hundreds of wears and a couple of reproofing runs before finally biting the dust when the zip broke. Not worth unpicking when cuffs etc are almost worn through. 

The other category I'm happy to discard is wildcard buys from charity shops*. If the peasant style top with dark peach and dark sage flowers had worked out with my mature figure... I'd been unsure whether the style was too young, but the actual issue was that lower-cut backs fall off my sloping shoulders. For a couple of quid to a good cause, and better understanding, I'm not unhappy to discard i.e. donate it unaltered to another charity shop nearer me. 

* Very few fitting rooms nowadays, and in this case there's a rail journey to take the top back. 

Candidates for next time? Maybe see if I can get a skirt from the leftovers antique gold ponte. 

I want to restart the woven shirt/top. I have some adorable chicken print poplin and a trial top fitting from last year, though hadn't decided on sleeve and neckline to showcase the print. 

Depending on my non-crafty commitments, I'd also like to think about top and underlayers. Fit a sleeveless top to double as a cami, and maybe a cardi that fastens at centre front. UK summers are as unpredictable as our springs. 

The Rolls-Royce item, a raincoat that fits me, is still in daydreaming stage rather than planning. 

    

2024 February and early March

So, what's been happening chez mouselet in the last month and a half? 

Hooks and needles still turning out small things for donation. The last of the lilac 4ply was crocheted into a baby hat, ribbed with a dark rose, and there was just enough lilac for a shell edging. With purple dk made fingerless mitts (thumb holes but not thumb extensions, blue skies and dragonflies pattern) to match last month's socks. And the very last of the purple dk, supplemened with white ribbing, became a 6-month hat that matches mitts and socks. 

A present for K on her allotment, a beanie in kingfisher colours, Teddy Navajo Aran. 

And prepping the next handbag size project, I've chosen needles and pattern - yes after knitting a tension square - to use the gorgeous undyed Manx loaghtan (rare breed sheep) 4ply that I brought home from the island last autumn. 

A little sewing... 

2024 v1 from ancestor pattern So Zo cami, in reused dark blotchy print. Reusing a somewhat altered pattern from a couple of years ago and what I've learned since then. Interesting, I added a horizontal dart at lower shoulder blade, and it fits well now, is very comfy, but wants an extra quarter inch coverage for my winter bras. And just a little more length for waistline warmt. 

Also for me, v1 of a self drafted knit underskirt with a little bit of flare, made from bargain box plum jersey. The front waistband needed a bit more 'curvature' to stay up well, a consequence of my sway back. However, I am happy enough with fit now that I'm ready to lengthen the pattern an inch, and cut better fabric for a spring skirt. 

And started a more complicated sewing project, prepped a shirt pattern for H. It's mid-nineties Simplicity 9210, design your own shirt. So old they have reused the pattern number. V1 is made up in a worn-out sheet. First fitting and a recent try on look pretty good, but she hasn't done a proper wear test yet for those last quarter inch adjustments. 

Repairs? fixed popped seams and loose buttons. Took in stretched elastic, clipped wide elastic on pj's to clear my hip bone. Added a strip to office chair seat cover to stop it working loose. 

I think you can guess the plans for the rest of March. Into April, maybe I'll tempt fate by replacing summer clothes - lost sunhat, outgrown dress etc. 

    

2024 January roundup

January projects, on the whole, were handbag sized knitting and crochet for donation. Mostly booties, with one pair of sleep socks for a toddler. Theme was different styles - sole first, toe first, top down Not in photo, a bonus pair of toe up crochet preemie booties, already donated. Haven't seen a pattern for crochet top down yet, and there are still crossover and granny square designs to try. 

I'd wanted to see whether I still enjoy crochet (I do, though it's harder on my eyes than knitting.) Also, to have a go at knitting both classic heel methods, before I choose yarn and pattern for a grown-up size later in the year. 

I'm also pondering hybrid travel slippers for myself - crochet sole in chunky or doubled yarn for insulation, knit uppers for packing, and because I prefer knitted rib. There are always more projects to try. 

The only sewing project was another pair of cycle shorts, in inherited neon jersey  whichbreathes a little. No, not as exercise wear - for me a bike is transport - but as  an underlayer. I had a week away from home, variable temperatures, and the extra layer worked when going from snow to shirtsleeves. I'm also happy to add my much altered https://www.patternsforpirates.com/product/peg-legs/ pattern to the T&T* list. The bad news? Now I want to buy fabric for leggings, to try the gusset versions, to try colour blocking, loads of options. 

* T&T - tried and tested, tried and trusted, tried and true. A pattern you have made your fit adjustments to, and need to mostly think about fabric behaviour when you make up.. 

2023 review, 2024 plan

Every year I aspire to complete items from the queue, polish my techniques, improve my fitting, and learn lots of new things. These are not SMART goals, but saying them out loud helps me choose projects that will take me in the right direction.

So how did I get on? 

Using up, adapting or finishing off:

The Finchdale set-in sleeve jumper was finally finished. Much better fit than Rtw, but will do less scoop at neck and a wider lower edge another time. 

The Hermia v-neck raglan cardigan used not quite enough charity shop merino yarn. Fits well, but with v-neck and cropped length, it'll work from late spring. 

Legwarmers for J, for September birthday girl, and for me, all from leftover/reused materials. Pattern is good for the future. 

Tech knitter's scrappy tam, mostly wool, from the hip section of a long-abandoned jumper. A bit loose in the band, but so cosy. Worn very often, will be repeated.

Wristwarmers from leftover sock yarn, and reknitted uncomfy too-wide mittens. A few more rows added to my old legwarmers and wristwarmers. 

There were more knit baby hats for donation, either my leftovers or grab bags of part balls from charity shops. 

Trying crochet after a long gap, a top down hat in sock yarn with knitted rib worked. (I pulled out the round-the-post crochet as too busy-looking in this colourway and perhaps too bulky) Not sure the crochet booties in DK are suitable for tinies, whether the hook holes are going to be trouble for delicate toes. I want to try booties again with finer yarn and a smaller hook. Or make 6-9 month size for not-quite walking kids. 

The fitting project 

Tee from ancestor pattern Tilly and the Buttons Freya. Lots more trial and tweaks - think the balance between movement ease and appearance is now about right. In any case, I have plenty of good enough tees and pj tops for 2024.

Woven trousers from ancestor News of the World NS258. One good pair made in Sage linen. The many trial pairs became summer pj pants. 

Joggers from ancestor pattern Successful Sewing 8. My version of SS8 is good now with grain lines, and fits at thigh, high and low hip. Still needs more adaptation at elastic waist for my abrupt curves. 

Not done

Fitting a skirt using what I've learned from trousers. Attempts from recycled materials failed, one because the fabric was more damaged than I'd realised, the second hadn't enough fabric as I prefer A-line to columns on my figure. I did confirm my preferred length below knee but not below calf. Might try again once it's warm enough for bare legs. 

Finish summer handbag from 2021 course. 

Refashioning? Tried to make something of the event badged polo-shirts, but they weren't the right shape for me. One has been kept as sleepwear,with a patch over the logo, the rest donated. 

Woven shirt fitting. I was almost ready to cut into good fabric after more trials in reclaimed gingham. Using Burda 8957, fitting help from Mrs Mole, and mashed up with the Betty Foster master for long sleeves. Then my non-crafty project arrived, and the colder weather. Try again in the summer. 

Planning. 

Did some thinking about needs using themes of Function, Fitting, Finishing and Fun. My wardrobe holes, in no particular order are (some still) 

Formal-ish dress to replace 2019 double jersey Freya (now tight)

Another pair warm office trousers. There are some nice inherited suiting lengths waiting. 

Woven shirt, from cheerful prints or the gingham that goes with the sage linen.

A denim skirt or pinafore - the fabric piece is not quite long enough for jeans.

More cycling shorts as undertrousers, maybe wear them under the denim skirt. 

Another camisole or two or three. 

Pattern test and make up the mouse quilting fabric waistcoat. 

I'm using more busy trains, and my old masks are scruffy.

Replace summer pair of tired joggers.

Gifts - top and dress for H in 2023. She has chosen fabric for next summer.

This lot, plus any repairs, should keep me occupied in 2024!