Using Wrap-a-mouse to help fit a top

Another detailed post. This time, having one more go at fitting a basic short-sleeved shell top. The pattern happens to be an out-of-print wardrobe pattern picked up in a charity shop, Simplicity 8849. I traced the top, View B, in size 14, then widened at the side seams to suit my own shape. 

At first I hoped to use the Wrap-a-mouse torso model directly, but the incomplete armscye was awkward to line up, so I went for a hybrid approach, using the horizontal wedge method and looking at the Wrap-a-mouse model for how-much* and for back dart placement. As suspected, I had to add wedges very close to my shoulders! 

* How much to swing the sideseams out at front and at back, how much to lower the dart, ...

Working with the traced half-pattern, a small front shoulder wedge brought the centre front into line, while the back needed a tiny shoulder dart and then a larger neck dart to align properly with my spine markers*. I didn’t need a back wedge once the shoulders were right (EDIT: maybe revisit that decision, looking at side view back high waist area)

The bust dart was lowered as usual, and I reduced its intake slightly to allow for tummy fullness and a more semi-fitted shape.

* Reach round and feel for a line of pin heads.

Cut and stitched in waste fabric (damaged parts of an old duvet cover). The first fitting was encouraging: the darts sat fairly well, and the hem hung almost straight. As a bonus, there's no need for a back slit and button with this neckline. The main issue was the front shoulder - I’d put the wedge too low, hence added width without enough height. A second fitting, using an old underdress I could pin into, tidied up the shoulder and collarbone area. I adjusted the front neckline and shoulder edge. Then narrowed the back neck darts and raised the back hsp a smidge, which got the upper back and shoulder line sitting more tidily.

The sleeve needed some pattern work. The original appeared to be very close-fitting, to sit under the matching bolero, however I need more movement ease for everyday wear. After checking the sleeve and armscye measurements, I added a little extra bicep width to the flat pattern. The first insertion attempt showed the balance points were sensible, but the cap was still too tight for comfortable arm movement, so I revised the adjustment and added the ease higher up. 

By this time, the pattern was almost there. I adjusted the front neck curve to fit around my own lumps and bumps, then pinned the hem. I tried on the jacket I want to wear over this top, and found that necks and hems are compatible. 

There might be a few small final tweaks: maybe a smidge more intake for the bust dart; decide whether to reduce the bicep adjustment; and whether the inner half inch of the shoulder seam conforms well enough to my own changing slope to work when the neck edge is bound.

Overall, I’m pleased enough with the prototype to move on to a wearable toile. And while I couldn't use Wrap-a-mouse directly for this much looser fitting, the how-much was invaluable.