Using Wrap-a-mouse to help fit a top

Another detailed post. This time, having one more go at fitting a basic short-sleeved shell top. The pattern happens to be an out-of-print wardrobe pattern picked up in a charity shop, Simplicity 8849. I traced the top, View B, in size 14, then widened at the side seams to suit my own shape. 

At first I hoped to use the Wrap-a-mouse torso model directly, but the incomplete armscye was awkward to line up, so I went for a hybrid approach, using the horizontal wedge method and looking at the Wrap-a-mouse model for how-much* and for back dart placement. As suspected, I had to add wedges very close to my shoulders! 

* How much to swing the sideseams out at front and at back, how much to lower the dart, ...

Working with the traced half-pattern, a small front shoulder wedge brought the centre front into line, while the back needed a tiny shoulder dart and then a larger neck dart to align properly with my spine markers*. I didn’t need a back wedge once the shoulders were right (EDIT: maybe revisit that decision, looking at side view back high waist area)

The bust dart was lowered as usual, and I reduced its intake slightly to allow for tummy fullness and a more semi-fitted shape.

* Reach round and feel for a line of pin heads.

Cut and stitched in waste fabric (damaged parts of an old duvet cover). The first fitting was encouraging: the darts sat fairly well, and the hem hung almost straight. As a bonus, there's no need for a back slit and button with this neckline. The main issue was the front shoulder - I’d put the wedge too low, hence added width without enough height. A second fitting, using an old underdress I could pin into, tidied up the shoulder and collarbone area. I adjusted the front neckline and shoulder edge. Then narrowed the back neck darts and raised the back hsp a smidge, which got the upper back and shoulder line sitting more tidily.

The sleeve needed some pattern work. The original appeared to be very close-fitting, to sit under the matching bolero, however I need more movement ease for everyday wear. After checking the sleeve and armscye measurements, I added a little extra bicep width to the flat pattern. The first insertion attempt showed the balance points were sensible, but the cap was still too tight for comfortable arm movement, so I revised the adjustment and added the ease higher up. 

By this time, the pattern was almost there. I adjusted the front neck curve to fit around my own lumps and bumps, then pinned the hem. I tried on the jacket I want to wear over this top, and found that necks and hems are compatible. 

There might be a few small final tweaks: maybe a smidge more intake for the bust dart; decide whether to reduce the bicep adjustment; and whether the inner half inch of the shoulder seam conforms well enough to my own changing slope to work when the neck edge is bound.

Overall, I’m pleased enough with the prototype to move on to a wearable toile. And while I couldn't use Wrap-a-mouse directly for this much looser fitting, the how-much was invaluable.  

Wrap-a-mouse, a fitting model

Ì want to revisit fitting woven tops. However a tape measure isn't working well to model my pronounced sway back, curved upper back, and tilted hips. (For instance, my neck area gets in the way of a shoulder to shoulder measurement) Someone moving house donated a half roll of midweight plastic wrap... Let's try the cling film method of making a fitting shell. That way there are no preconceptions. 

Mathematically, you'd get best results with a narrow strip and a continuous build over several hours. That is not going to happen in the heat, or without a sewing-savvy helper. What is possible is to build a sketch in sections, about the width of the roll. 

Step 1, wrap the first section. With a little help from DH, wrapped ribs to thigh about 6 times. I could reach to mark centre front, tummy button height and most forward point of hip crest bones. DH roughly marked my spine.

No point being too precise, since the plastic has stretch and recovery. After cutting myself free, I estimate it recovered by 10%-15%, depending on the tension in each area.

Step 2, where should the seams be?

No preconceptions, I  said. I want a flat pattern so need to snip into the areas of greatest curvature. Not surprisingly to me, the sideseam position was fairly flat, but there was a strongly curved area a thumb length towards back and front. I chose to follow my own anatomy, snipping long 'darts' above the most prominent point of hip crests, back and front. I also followed my own anatomy either side of centre front, cutting long 'darts' from the raised bone a fraction below empire line, not far above where my ribs divide, to the side of my tum at the height where it's pushed forward most.

Step 3, assessment 

First, some words for the horizontals, all about a thumb length apart:

Empire line, my smallest circumference is underbust;

High waist, the bend point; 

Low waist, the lowest point above hip bone, most recessed part of the spine.

High hip, at the most prominent bone at front, a ridge of bone at the back, and yes, some tummy flesh at centre front;

Low hip, the widest part of my bum, which sticks out at the back because of hip tilt, recessed at the front.

Because of rib tilt, my front is a part-cone from Empire line to low waist. The back in this region is closer to a conventional inverted part‐cone, more tilted than the standard. 

  At the empire line boundary, there's tissue above, a more prominent rib below and the next rib is even further forward. I can barely fit a thumb in the gap, so will model for fabric to fall about half an inch further forward.

  The other empty space to consider is about a thumb length below my tummy button, where my hip tilt causes an underhang. Skirts look better if loosely fitted in this zone. Trousers likely need slash and spread above the knee - think pleated pants drafting. I want my model to reflect the more fitted shape. 

My working hypothesis is that I should smooth over low waist in the side seam area for tops and dresses, but compress a little bit for skirt and trouser waistbands. Why? That height is the most forward part of my tum, and indeed the most forward part of my spine, so I have to take the fabric weight on the hip bone, not risk a garment sliding down the overhang. 

At this point I have a mental model and a very rough physical model in plastic film - which deteriorates each time it is handled. 

Step 4, transferring to paper

I used paper tablecloths for rough drafts

Added 1" at centre back and at centre front.

Using the plastic film as a guide, and remembering to add in the stretch/recovery factor, treated the slashes as vertical darts around my circumference. My piece of paper was long enough to reach almost up to Empire line, and down to low hip.

Folded, pinned, adjusted until it was close to my shape.

Step 5, transferring to scrap fabric, an old sheeting rectangle that reached from Empire line to thigh. I allowed extra at centre front. Since fabric drapes more naturally, there was a little bit of adjustment of dart length and intake. However it was pretty close to what I wanted.

I took a tiny fisheye dart in side seam area to mark low waist position.

Tapered the thigh portion to match my own shape. Not that mini skirts work for my lifestyle.

Put tactile markers (a few stitches) at centre back low waist, where (bridget jones big but comfy) knicker elastic crosses spine, and on tummy button. These fix height, tension and rotation.

Section 2 Underbust to overbust, and shoulder blades.

I managed this on my own, underarm to Empire line. Of course, a certain amount of compression went on. Nevertheless I got a good first approximation to mouse shape.

Followed the same steps as before, trace the wrap to a bit of paper tablecloth. Add width to compensate for compression. Make more symmetrical, and divide the darts. Fold and pin and try on. Then add a bit more width before tracing onto a worn out pillow slip. Keep pinning until fit is improved. The thing that surprised me was that, for this close fit, I couldn't back the darts away from the apex, the fabric chose to move so the point filled the corner.

I divided the dart intake into one small very near the armscye, and two large under the apex. A nice detail, keeping seams a couple of inches forward and back of the usual line. Could let that small dart form a mini princess line running into the low scye. In the same way as section 1, added an inch to the empire line rather than model unusable space. 

Section 3, yoke and shoulders. 

Poor DH agreed to wrap me again. This time from a line roughly 3" above my elbow to a high scoop neckline. The shape of the Mold* cape, though plastic film is a very poor substitute for prehistoric gold.

No surprises about cutting darts at back shoulder and back neck, compensates for vertical curve. 

My shoulders are sloping and forward, so the ball is prominent here. The pattern angle can be adjusted by folding out a wedge at scye from collarbone to just below the ball of my shoulder. I'm also looking at the shapes and thinking a saddle shoulder, about 4" total, would give an even nicer fit at back shoulder and possibly be a low waste design on a fabric remnant. 

Went through the same process as before: trace onto paper, pin fit, adjust, cut in waste fabric, fine tune...

* Mold is a small town in north Wales. The archaeology is amazing! 

Step 6 merging the sections 

Preserving the work done in fabric, transferred changes back to the paper. I chose to keep my model in two sections, boundary at Empire line. For the top, I lined up at centre front and centre back, and traced. It had been clear for some time that I didn't have a good model of the sleeve cap and armscye - though the cap/flap was useful to haul on while aligning everything yet again with my shoulder points. Dug out the flexible ruler and did the best I could, matching the dimple where yoke crosses armscye at the front. At the back* the scye was my best guess because the back/arm boundary moves around so much. I chose not to deal with a sleeve cap but to let this version of my model be sleeveless.

* I have debated for years how to get movement ease and excess fabric balanced, whilst shared between back and sleeve cap. It has to work whether standing up, reaching up and forward, or falling asleep on a long train journey. 

From the tidied up tracings, I made one more physical model in worn out fabric. There were still a few challenges. With five darts and four seams around the torso I lost precision. Some user error, I'm reasonably competent with marking and stitching now, but not expert. And once I saw it, I realised the lower section, scrapped sheeting, had different turn of cloth than the upper, a scrapped pillow case.

Rather a shame that I have no use for a tennis dress. The final model fits me nicely. There's little ease, but I can sit, read, do housework. Not brave enough to show my legs on the balcony, however we have been closing our curtains against the unusual heat, so it's been OK to test wear inside.

This project has been time well spent.

2026 June and July. Tinkering and Wrap-a-mouse

No single make, but cleared a lot of small tasks. 

June was a tinkering month. I reluctantly accept I've gone up a size, and I'm exploring what that means in terms of fitting. My skirts and dresses are more forgiving than trousers, so that's mostly what I've worn. A change in my meds means I'm coping a little better with temperature variations than usual. It's been nice to get some wear out of my short sleeves this month.

July, more tinkering and some fitting. Mostly the Wrap-a-mouse project, another attempt at a cling film model of my current shape. Wrap, cut plausible darts, trace to paper, adjust, trace to fabric, adjust. Not doing it by the book, but have attempted three sections, Empire line to thigh; Empire line to underarm; and shoulder and upper arm. By the beginning of August, the shoulder to Empire line pieces had been merged, and the lower section tried and traced. Haven't done much with the sleeve cap beyond recording the cling film shape. The scye seems a good guess at fit. However I have thought that before, then found it not to be the case. We will see in August. 

I also had a quick go at adapting the bog coat to my narrow sloping shoulders and curvy upper back. I looked at the Balenciaga diagram, but ran out of time before heading off to a relative's momentous birthday celebration, miles from my home. I'd like to come back to that idea too. My idea was a light wrap from a thin scarf, a bit of sun protection at this time of year. 

Knitting:

The blue and purple merino legwarmers, with Lucas number stripes. Both legs were finished in July, despite only being worked on at knit and natter. Where I'm generally nattering. 

The experiment to adapt S6614 cardi pattern for knits is also progressing slowly. Back and sleeves went quickly. Somehow the fronts sat longer in my bag than in my hands. Finally sewed them up during a bands* in the park concert, but should have known there'd be a trapezium needed to level it at bust height. Well, the half-lining of the parent garment wasn't level, why did I expect the adaptation be different? I've put this down till I get some conclusions from the Wrap-a-mouse project. 

* International readers, brass band in the park is a very informal affair. Stop as long or as little as you like. Bring children, bring picnic. Knitting brings out a little friendly curiosity.

Repairs

Shortened and added sitting ease to refitted sand-coloured trousers - let out cb and side seams. I really do need to start with a UK 16 and take in, rather than let out a 14.

Popped seam under sleeve on H's jacket

Stretched neckline, white V-neck tee, taken in ¼"

Shortened blue and sand checked shirt 3.5", above small worn holes. Want to think about sleeve alterations - I'm currently wearing it with cuffs turned up.

Shortened bright floral shirt 3" to improve proportions. Could have been 3.5".

Coral flower maxi dress, for 90th party. Stitched up sleeves by 1.5" to cover bra band at underarm. After the party, I wore it as a hot weather night dress. Would like to take up an inch at shoulders, and maybe fill in the V-neck for sun protection.

Around the hottest days, rejigged ancient cotton jersey bra to add triangles to band where ribs flare. Stole a little from seam to add cup volume.

Three pj tops altered. These were originally trial garments for woven tops, and were comfy when I first made them. However with shape changes they are all cutting into my underarm, especially the left. I realised that the shoulder slope no longer matches my current angle. One had facings, and I stole seam allowance at Hsp, which worked. Another had a proper collar, it sits rather better now reduced at Sp, but is still tight in some sleeping positions. The third suffered from sheer laziness. I zigzagged where I'd cut the neck binding at HSP instead of searching for a compatible scrap. now the zigzag irritates the eczema on my neck.

Key ring teddy bear left by house guest. Hanging loop repaired.

DH's old zip pouch has a new strap. Which gives him a spare.

Finally finished faffing with the red event tee. It now has a hexagon patch with bees, and has been returned to DH.

Other crafty activities. Visited the May Morris exhibition at Port Sunlight. It's good to see credit for these iconic designs going to the creator not her father. She was known in her lifetime for her embroidery. The exhibition centrepiece was an absolutely stunning dress which she had made for a friend. 

And in August? 

Finish the Wrap-a-mouse lowest section. See how it informs yet another attempt at a fairly standard woven semi-fitted short sleeved top. Not sure how much time I can devote, given that I also need to complete the household summer tasks - paintwork, washing thick bedding and so on.

2026 May summary, Bee fabric Freya 2026 v1

May has been generally dingy, so I've mostly worn my mid weight trousers and long sleeved tees, combined as necessary with scarves and wristwarmers. Met up with a relative in Hexham, and, rebel that I am, wore the silk Viking hood in the wind at the beautiful Vindolanda Roman site on Hadrian's Wall. It proved to be a very flexible garment, used as sun protection a fortnight later when our area was just on the edge of the UK heat dome.

Sewing:

Freya 2026 v1 in bee fabric. 

My tees are wearing out, most of them are 3 or 4 years old. The comfiest are the soft blue with white flowers, which correspond to 2023 v3 and v3a, ancestor pattern Freya by Tilly and the Buttons. I still had tracings of v3a and v7, the monet-esque. I prefer v3a neckline and shoulder width. 

Made lots of small pattern changes...

Starting with 2023 v3a back: 

 Widen by ½“ from most protruding point of blades, scye notch height;  

 Take a dart at shoulder notch to compensate. Odd in a knit, however I'll get away with it in my intended single jersey;

 Raise high shoulder point by ¼“, taking a smidge more into the shoulder dart to compensate; 

 Restore the scye to a more conventional shape.

Starting with 2023 v3a front: 

 Narrow the sideseams above hip height; 

 Scoop the front scye below yoke level.

Starting with 2023 v3a sleeve: 

 This had a smaller cap than the new scye. Added ⅛" height; 

 Lengthened by ¼".

The slightly metallic finish on this fabric looked gorgeous on the roll, but it bruises easily when folded or stitched. Think this version will be wearable but not for best. We will see how it washes and wears.

EDIT: did a wear test on 1st June. Provionally pleased with silhouette and comfort. I've pinned a couple of ⅛" changes to the front scye, but haven't machined yet.

Knitting. 

Blue and purple merino legwarmers, with Lucas number stripes. Both legs are at 11" by 31 May. Blue yarn is almost used up on the stocking stitch, there should be enough purple left for the top ribbing.

A new experiment, trying to adapt S6614 cardi pattern for knits, rotating some darts to short rows. Testing as a bolero on big needles. I have notes, however it's a travel piece, too, so it'll be a while before blogged.

Repairs:

Replaced button on DH's trousers 

Moved in sleeve buttons on blue corduroy dress.

Tidied up waistband on refitted sand-coloured trousers - however there still isn't quite enough sitting ease.

Debating whether to do: Replace lower band on Hermia teal cardi which is slightly flared compared to the stocking stitch above it. I'd chosen to do that rather than rib because I dislike the slight gather which emphasises my lower tum. This band is better, however I need to lose something like one in ten stitches. Whether it's worth it given the merino superwash is already showing wear at hips and elbows... It'd involve removing and reknitting the button band. The smaller thing is to add a couple of rows to the button band, filling in the wide V a bit ‐ for warmth and better proportions on my short frame.

Possibles for June 

A light wrap from an old scarf?

Use damaged silk scarf for a cami?  

Another Freya to pattern test latest changes in plain colour?

Red event men's polo, add pocket, experiment with refitting?

Chicken-print top, can I replace yoke for better fit at front shoulders. A round neck to de-emphasise my asymmetry there? 

Skirt yoke to fit. Use for grey pleated fabric?

    

2026 April summary, Morris-esque jacket

Sewing 

S6614 cardi v1 2026 Morris-esque furnishing fabric. 

I'm wearing this as a jacket, in a print inspired by the Strawberry Thief, 

One pattern change since last year's red fleece, added 1/4" at high shoulder point, which has fixed stress lines at neck. Tested the change as a half lining, a soft white twill weave, probably polyester.  The main fabric seems to be largely cotton. 

Yet again in 2026, I'm using what fabric I have, even when it's not really quite enough. This time I made it work by piecing the back, using selvedges at the centre front opening, and then using other materials for edge treatments. I'm actually happier with the proportions at this slightly shorter length than the previous version.

Finishing style? Four inherited buttons from neck to underbust again. This time button loops were made from bias binding, decorated with grey blind-hem stitch to blend with the main fabric. The hem was skimpier than my preference, so I extended it with a bit of bias binding. Wish I'd used bias instead of lining to cover the button loops on the inside. Hanging loop from a ribbon oddment.

There was only enough main fabric for one rectangular patch pocket 5" wide and 5.5" high, and attached as close to hem as possible. Phone is fairly secure with this extra height, and doesn't dig into my ribs too much. 

I'm happy with the pattern now, and have made a good tracing with my adjustments. I'm enjoying wearing the jacket when I want to look a little tidier. 

DH asked for a zip pouch on an elastic waistband. It replaces one measuring  9.5"x4.5" excluding seam allowance. Waistband tabs were about 1"x6",the elastic making a total of 34" circumference. Again using what I have, I dug out the below knee section of some old navy canvas trousers (saved for mending). The zip was in a contrasting purple, for visibility, and inherited. I'd put some grosgrain ribbon from stash in the 'kit' but spotted a yard of narrow grey grosgrain in a charity shop which went better. He is happy. 

Knitting 

Preemie hat, white and green. 

Mansize hat in two shades of blue - no 3. 

Travel knitting, blue and purple merino legwarmers. Since one of the trips was to Cambridge, I chose Lucas numbers for the row counts. (Yes, I do know it's a different Lucas from the professorship - a mousematician is allowed terrible puns). Both legs are in progress, reaching up to the calves now. 

Chose not to do

Me Made May 2026. Instead did a clothes sort/assessment (see previous post) , and pulled a few garments out for repair etc. 

 

Remodelling, refitting 

Brown jacket, about 7 years old - removed lower band. 

Blue corduroy dress, RTW - shortened 1" at waist. Cuff buttons still need moving in. 

Sand-coloured outdoor trousers (charity shop find after the clothes sort) were let out at waist and high hip. Not a brilliant fit, or best stitching in awkward areas, however it should allow me to get some use from my brown tops this year. There's still a bit of hand finishing to do on the inner waist band, however the hard work is done. 

Repairs

Fixed popped seams on cycle shorts, and on a couple of tees

Replacement button on DH's trousers. 

Hem fixed on dragonfly trousers 

Shortened sleeves on silk dress for DD. 

Two white rtw cotton tees - removed stains with bleach

Sage linen trousers - hand stitched to tidy inside curve better

Moved buttons out on dragonfly trousers - I'm at my end of winter weight 

Shortened zip on grey wide leg trousers, because the lower end rolled awkwardly when unfastened. I hated struggling when there was a queue outside the cubicle. 

New arrivals:

White sunhat with floral band. 

    

Not Me Made May

Rather than committing to Me Made May this year, I did a clothes sort and have either completed or gathered materials for small repairs or stain treatments. 

I still have about the right number of clothes for my environment and lifestyle (about 50 items) in styles and colours that work for me. However, some of them are wearing thin (mostly the plain ones). Also last year's wearable toiles were deliberately in less favoured fabrics.

I would like to buy more clothes ready made, since I'm a slow sewer. It's difficult, though, when you're petite with a pronounced curve to the spine. For example I have more bone at high hip than the standard mannequin has - definitely not a flat front. 

Ready mades

Unusually this year, I found three Rtw garments which are loose enough for comfort. All three look OK from the front. 

The cream cardigan was a good style for me, the large collar balances the big turn ups I have to fold on cuffs. However the soft yarn kept felting with loose fibres from adjoining garments. So it made it to the office only once and is now demoted to everyday.  

The brushed poly top is warm and comfortable. It's had a couple of dozen wears under a jumper, but I fear the soft fabric will probably only look good for another dozen or so wears. The horizontal stripes emphasise the poor fit at upper back - it was probably intended for someone with squarer shoulders. 

Most upset about the blue corderoy tiered dress, which is a nice style and fabric weight for Spring and Autumn. Since the side seams pulled forward at the lower ribs, the back looked awful. I tried to rescue by pinning darts at underarms, didn't work because my ribs flare not taper at underbust. Then tried pinning darts just above the waist. Actually I needed to raise the whole waistline above the swayback to avoid stress lines from back neck to front hip. It was a pain to unpick all those lines of stitches. However I will now choose the modified dress more often. 

Remodelling 

I made one major change to an existing me-made, a brown raglan jacket made some years ago when first learning about fitting. The fabric was leftover from a friend's craft project, but a useful weight for summer. The ancestor pattern was Successful Sewing 8, mine turned out as a sort of long bomber jacket. Unfortunately the jacket felt meh in its proportions on me, and I had to regularly replace the lowest popper which strained when sitting. I removed the hem band and the lower darts to give a straighter somewhat cropped jacket. Would have taken it even shorter if it were not for the pockets. It's still not a great fit, but is better on my petite frame, and is likely to be chosen more often after not a great deal of work. 

Recent me-mades 

February teal cords are a firm favourite. First choice off the clean washing pile for warmth, shape and comfort.

March chocolate brown trousers are a good office choice, or for any semi-formal day with only the odd half-hour walking. The thick fabric is a little stiff at the seams and hence a bit scratchy for a city walks. I think this version needs tiny changes to deal with increasing stretch throughout the day. 

April Morris-esque print jacket, not yet blogged, was very comfortable for travelling and city walks. I also felt suitably dressed for a classical concert and dinner. This version of the pattern is definitely worth tracing and making again in different fabric types.

Summer wardrobe gaps 

I have more brown-toned tops for the summer than bottoms. And more grey-blue trousers than tops. Both pairs of previous sand-coloured trousers are worn out. Despite poor Rtw fit on me, maybe I can find temporary light-weight trousers to take in at low hip or let out at high hip? Edit, end April, found some outdoor trousers size 14 which fit well in leg width and at low hip, but need waist expanding ie back darts reducing in length and width, and using side seam allowance to do the same to the 'waist darts' there. Of course they'll need shortening, and I'll either use what I cut off the length to add to the waistband, or maybe use the belt loop fabric. Not trivial, but a little quicker and cheaper than cutting and sewing a new pair. 

Ongoing

Continue working on a well-fitting tee. The last version, with ancestor pattern Freya from Tilly and the Buttons, was deliberately looser than the previous version, but ended up too wide on my neck, shoulders and biceps. Can I learn anything from the April jacket?

The last woven top, chicken print, feels fine but looks meh near my face. I now wonder if the V-neck was unsuccessful because of my asymmetric shoulders. Can I replace the front neck/yoke area with a round neckline?

What fabric do I have to make trial tops to look nice with any of the blue trousers? Or bottoms to go with favourite brown tops? 

Next year

The plain tops really do need replacing. Buy fabric once patterns are established. 

    

2026 March summary - chocolate brown trousers

Sewing 

Dark Chocolate office trousers. NL6130 V2 2026. 

I traced 2026v1 (teal cord pattern)  with ancestor NL6130 via TDCO process. When the inherited man-made length (possibly crimplene) was pre-washed, it shrank so much I reduced seam allowances to 3/8". The only fitting change was to increase the tum darts. However due to fabric limitations the waistband is narrow, pieced and backed with a different material. The patch pocket will only hold a house key and a train ticket. 

A slightly more difficult material than I've tackled recently. It frayed like mad, so I zigzagged extensively and treated the inseams as welt seams (top stitched to the back).

These have been fine around the office, They are not such nice fabric as the old favourites, but they are in better condition. 

Fitting 

A general thing to remember. The last three waistbands I have made were fine while trying on. And still are fine immediately after washing the garment. However, by lunchtime a very small horizontal stretch is a bigger vertical drop. No longer comfortable at the inseams. I need to set buttons etc a little on the tight side. Better to do that than move them a day or two later. 

Knitting/crochet 

Two 6" granny squares, one light green, one primrose, were edged in darker green. Ultimately to be used for a Christmas project by the knitting group. 

Finished a second hat a for homeless man, to be donated via the charity Shelter. Started a third. For a change, the last one  has a four section crown instead of my usual eight. Same stitch count, increase to 88st on 6mm needles, knit stocking stitch for a generous thumb length, one pair of short rows to warm ears and neck, then rib another inch or so on 5mm needles.

I needed a very lightweight project when carrying other stuff one day, so have cast on a preemie hat with tiny leftovers on the short 4mm bamboo dpns. The crown is white, in 5 sections double increase, and the stand is green 60 St's. 

Repairs

Restitched perished stitching on DH's trouser hem. 

Ages ago, I'd unpicked lettering from an event fleece jacket, and covered the logo with a star-splattered moon. This month I finally found and attached a little crochet cat. Silly, I know, but it balances the design. The fleece is a good weight for this weather - why not make it look fun rather than adequately rescued. 

Arrivals/departures

I'd thrown out a load of shrunken socks. Then DD decluttered and offered me half a dozen pairs in good condition. That gives me enough again. 

A friend who also has a tum disproportionate to her weight said maternity tights work well for her. I picked up an unused pair in a charity shop. When I got them out of the packet they were way too long, and too difficult to stretch to my waist measurement. They will be donated back, still unused. 

Next steps

Prepped the pattern S6614 cardigan, adding 1/4" at high shoulder point. 

    

2026 February - Teal cords

Sewing 

Teal corduroy trousers, 2026 v1 from ancestor pattern 6130, which was significantly tweaked for my shape in last year's TDCO exercise. Due to fabric shrinkage when prewashed, I needed to cut with a separate back gusset, and to move ⅛“ from inseam to outseam - this worked OK since wanted sitting ease not standing room. After trying on, I also made a small adjustment to the top of the centre back seam. I decided to put a side fastening instead of a zip on this version to test the centre front fit. Only a tiny adjustment was made at lower tum. However, the next day I had a stupid evening and put placket and band on with an underlap not an overlap.  

Overall, I'm glad I've tested with the gusset and succeeded with sloped pockets. I'm ready to make some office trousers from this pattern. 

Knitting

Test knit a couple of patterns of stars, requested further down the chain by a Brownie leader. Tried a starfish pentangle-ish pattern first. However five 60° angles gave too much fullness for my taste. I preferred the woven star pattern, two interlinked triangles. So does my friend who will be knitting up a batch. 

Made one last pair of baby mittens from the green yarn. 

Hat a for homeless man, requested by one of my knitting group friends who supports the charity Shelter. I had been given a unpicked jumper, DK in two shades of blue, high wool content. Knitting both strands together, I'll get two, maybe three, hats from the available yarn. One finished in February, another started. 

Repairs done

Small hole darned in rainbow gloves

DH's coffee colour shirt, removed pocket flaps, zigzagged tattered pocket edge. 

Hanging hook on new towel - all batch towels checked and correct. 

TDCO pj's, mended the second split. 

Another popped button on purple coat. 

Failed repair, an event top which I had tried to unpick the logo from, and made a hole in (grrr). Couldn't find a suitable stretch fabric for a pocket over the mess, and DH agreed we should just put it in the textile bank. 

Discards

Koala pj trousers, worn out

S6614 v2 white sheeting top. Was really a trial being used as emergency pj's - I have enough pj's. 

Lots of shrunken socks. 

Cleared out a load of worn-out-fabric test garments from the 'maybe I'll do something with this' bag. They've had a garment life and then provided some useful learning, and now it's time to let them go to the textile bank. 

    

2026 January, a fun project

We took our annual holiday in the winter this year. Escaped for a few days to Spain, where there is light and warmth, at least compared to snowy Britain. Didn't do much crafty stuff, and (oops) the biggest project was a fun thing not a necessity. 

Sewing. 

Viking hood, used some lovely pieces of silk from a damaged kimono. It needed 12.5" squares plus seam allowances. Managed to piece 13.5" squares for the shoulders. Thought the capelet was just a little long, but was fine once the double fold hem was in place (3/8" plus 5/8"). The hood would perhaps have been even better with felled seams than French seams. Nevertheless, I like wearing it on a cold evening, especially to comfort my face muscles. 

Knitting. 

Just a pair of green baby mitts for a colleague, to go with the hat finished in December. 

Repairs. 

Replacement buttons on cotton pj shorts, purple coat. 

Added zip and inside pockets to a cloth shopping bag before our holiday. (A longer shoulder strap wasn't useful so removed it after we got home) 

Restitched hanging loop on grey wool coat. 

Restitched pocket on DH's hoodie and darned small holes. 

Torn summer pj trousers, however there's a second rip. 

Arrivals

burgundy/cream striped top, sleeves 2.5" shortened and 1" narrowed 

Green pj's, waist added 2" elastic at back, shortened 2.5", narrowed 1.5" at cuff. 

Turquoise spring coat, shortened sleeves 1.5"

Next steps

In the last few days of January I prepped fabric for a replacement pair of corduroy trousers. The bad news? It wasn't a full 60", or at least not after washing. Better news, I'd bought 1.5m, so by cutting a gusset, it was just possible to preserve the nap and grain. I've also prepped the pattern for slant pockets. However I'm not sure how they'll play with my front high hip darts, so won't cut the side seams on that line till I'm certain. 

    

2025 —How did I do?

At the beginning of 2025, I was happy that the shapes and colours in my wardrobe met my needs. I had intended to continue refining patterns for my petite pear shaped frame with forward-tilting hip crests. A woven top and an improved trouser pattern were next on the list. How did I do? 

Sewing

Spent February and March trying Top Down Centre Out (TDCO) trouser fitting starting with New Look 6130. The method uses your waistband as a stable starting point. After some tribulations, largely because I don't have a flat front, the cotton summer pair have been really comfy. I did achieve a better sense of curves around waist and hip, and want to remake the pattern with standard rather than patch pockets in 2026.

Woven top? Three wearable versions of S6614 dress converted to a top were finished. Though not in great fabrics, I'm happy with the pattern, and they will do in summer for a year or two. 

I also made two versions of stretch fabric S6614 cardigan. V1 from old sheeting was supposed to be expendable. It's actually been worn lots over short sleeved tees. I also made V2 from leftover fleece. While I need to either line the next as the pattern intended, or add more of an overlap for buttons, I would definitely like to make more. 

As a bonus fitting project, I  tried a woven cami to explore fit between underbust and high hip. Ancestor pattern was a magazine giveaway dress which seems to be New Look 6369. I've worn this on the few very hot days, and more often as an under layer. 

I haven't managed to make any more plain tees, though I did buy two supposedly cropped ones, hip length on me, and am wearing them with 3" cuffs turned up. Less good, I bought more printed jersey (Oops, I'm more short of plains) and haven't even dug out the last version of the pattern. 

Household. 

The seating in our living/dining room was, shall we say, varied. I loose-covered a 3-seater sofa, a roller chair and our four dining chairs, then wallpapered the assorted storage boxes which happen to fit our shelving. I'm happy that the room feels more coordinated and restful now 

Knitting

Finished an Aran toddler hat. 

The Manx loaghtan hat is permanently lost, I think because it was slightly small in diameter. 

I reknit my teal Talvi jumper from the armscye up, and have been much happier. However I'm not sure my notes are good enough to make another that actually fits. The sewn cardi is likely to be a better starting point in 2026. 

The Finchdale jumper langushed in a cupboard until December, then I couldn't find the ends to unpick beyond the yoke, so, come January, I'm still cobbling together some narrower shoulders.

Small knit community projects were granny squares for the Bear Parade, Christmas chains for the café, more baby hats ... 

Cobbling. 

I have no scruples about altering not-quite-last-legs garments, or about acquiring and altering charity shop finds. I can afford time and a little money for a fail (like the denim skirt that just wasn't right for me)  

 

Removed waistband from wool/silk trousers. Let out every seam and dart, and added an insert to cb waistband.  They're comfier now.

  

Two tank-style tops contrived from shrunk or stretched tees

Lengthened red legwarmers when I found a bit more yarn. 

Care-and-repair: stain treatment, restitching popped seams and missing buttons; adjusting waist elastics; adding a dart at shoulder blade; rebound trousers cuffs; shortened shirts by 3"-4"; trimmed loose threads. Those kinds of jobs. 

A bonus craft project over the Easter break,with a simple table loom. Interesting as an experiment, however I don't imagine scaling up. 

Wardrobe 

So in 2025 I improved several woven patterns, and made some wearable trial garments, though all in poor quality fabrics.  

Footwear has always been difficult for me, and gets increasingly hard as my body ages. It rather limits which skirt/trousers work. I found some OK summer shoes locally. Later in the year, I took a trip to a specialist fitter in Clitheroe, who found me walking boots (chosen often) and some shoes adequate for our informal office. 

Given that there's been another year's wear on the stalwart outfits, I need to get rid of the scruffiest. Then think about how much I can actually buy while RTW is generously fitted enough to be alterable for me. The nice bit will be to outline my preferred makes for the coming months. 

  

2025 December

Mostly had non-crafty fun this month with immediate family and with colleagues.

My making mojo is back a little, now last month's makes are in action. Enjoyed wearing the swaledale hat made last month, and have found the leftovers hat useful. The community project, 'paper chains', looked lovely in the cafe. 

While there's been some activity in December, the only finish was the knitted baby hat. And since one of my colleagues is expecting, I've started knitting a pair of mittens to go with it.

In the evenings, I've dug out an abandoned jumper, the Finchdale. Still too wide across the shoulders, and too low and wide in the neckline. So yet again it's been unpicked and the yoke reknitted. I'm so fed up that, much as I like the yarn, I've resorted to k2tog as yoke darts. It should be wearable then, but not smart. So I've actually bought, in the post-Christmas sales, an office-suitable cardi which doesn't look too ridiculous with 4" cuffs turned up (because it has a big  collar). 

A few bits of mending - the usual suspects. Popped seams, various buttons replaced, DH's shirt pockets darned...

I've been looking at the refashioning pile. A nice black and white silk square scarf just wanted a worn out fringe removed. 

Also pulled out a gifted silk kimono. The back panel had shredded. However, the front sleeves and bands were different silks and are fine. I've disassembled, and think there will just be enough to make a viking style hood using a grid* 12.5" units plus seam allowances. If just a little short of materials, I might get away with a 10" capelet section. The size-check prototype, pinned but not cut from unrelated leftovers, looked and felt good. 

The jumper, the mittens, and the potential hood are going to carry over into January. 

* Mathematically inclined readers may be pleased to see that the 6 square T-shaped grid, with different seams, would be a possible net for a cube. Grin. 

2025 September/October/November summary

It's been a busy few months with non-crafty activities. The good stuff, concerts and walks and visits to see friends. Not so good, a family member needing support many miles from us. (She is doing much better now) 

Sewing. The big success was v2 of S6614 cardi in red fleece. The bodice fitting tweaks in v1 were fine. This time, though, I didn't leave quite enough centre front facing for the buttons I used. Made neck facings from scraps of poly/silk. Reshaped the sleeve heads, this thicker fabric wouldn't ease enough. This has been worn several times including to the office. I want to make more in better fabrics. 

Knitting. Although I've carried yet another baby hat around with me, it has mostly stayed in my handbag. 

Then, for my birthday, I was given a ball of real Swaledale wool for a hat. 80 St's on 6.5mm needles. Oh, lovely to knit with. I kept it very plain to show the gentle greys, just a few purl stitches on the stand for decoration. (EDIT: unpicked the last few rows to have less fabric over eyebrows/glasses, and short rowed at the back to keep ear lobes and neck warm.)

Hat from leftover wool. Had a failed neck scarf in cream, looked terrible against my silver hair, and a 22st band of brown in similar weight. Contrived a Fibonacci stripe pattern which fitted plausibly with my head measurements, but actually came out a bit shorter than my preference. So today, the last of the month, I've unpicked to the stand and decreased every third row, with the intention of adding an inch. Fingers crossed there'll be enough yarn. (EDIT: just enough yarn to be usable in our mild damp winters , though I don't think it'll be a favourite) 

Community project, knitted 'paper' chains for a Santa themed event. 5sts by 15cm stocking stitch on the small addi.

Alterations

Removed waistband from wool/silk trousers. Either they've shrunk 3" or I've grown. Probably a bit of both. Let out every seam and dart, and they're comfier now. Back waistband needed an insert with a scrap of cotton. This pair still are shorter than when first made, but are good enough with ankle boots. 

Two tank-style tops contrived. Removed worn out turtleneck and sleeves from the light tan old Freya tee, turned and stitched edges. Same method to rescue the first of the duck Freya tees, though I was able to keep the bound neckline on that one. They are in regular rotation now. 

    

2025 July and August - tops and a trial cardi

 

Finally some pics of the S6614 tops. 

V1, not shown, was unwearable (third use fabric tweaked and tweaked since last year) but was certainly useful learning. 

V2 turned out to be wearable as a pj top, but the fabric isn't good enough to be seen in public - the thinnest parts of an old sheet..

V3 is good fabric, a Rose & Hubble poplin, but perhaps a little too thick for this purpose. I'm comfortable wearing this on stay-at-home days, but not entirely sure about the colour next to my skin. Do you ever struggle with the blending of colours? Really like all of them close to, but unsure from a distance? I'm also uneasy about the neckline proportions. It's not too wide or too low for summer, even in our microclimate, but it feels a bit blah when I catch sight of myself.

V4 is the pattern variant I'm keeping. Fabric was a cotton remnant from the TDCO trousers. Not perfect, and I learned that I don't yet have the skills to cut one neckline then postfix a lower facing when the shoulder seams are already in. You can see I've distorted the neck. Nevertheless, I'm still wearing this because it's so comfy, and good with for my fair skin and poor temperature-control.

The cardigan was also made from a worn-out sheet, and I didn't expect it to be more than a V1 expendable. I tried a new-to-me technique for fitting the back shoulder/neck area, which was so comfy I then applied it as best I could to the already-finished tops v3 and v4. (Thanks to Jen of J Stearns Designs - even though my own learning style is to prefer diagrams to videos, she demonstrates very clearly.) I've worn this cardi lots over short sleeved tees. There are hooks and eyes at neck and bust level to adjust temperature/sun protection when out and about.

The bonus top, the strappy one, as you might guess is not from the same pattern. To explore fit between underbust and high hip, I came home from our local charity shop (hooray for the Lifeboat shop in Birkdale/Southport) with a magazine giveaway dress pattern, which seems to be New Look 6369. The tissue and instructions were there, but not the envelope. I shortened to high hip level. And simply hemmed instead of lined this time, since the fabric was only the broad stripe remaining from a long-ago duvet cover. I wore this around the flat on the two days in August when temperatures were in the high twenties. And am wearing it today under a long sleeved tee, temperatures here are in the high teens but damp and gloomy.

I'll be happy to make more of either top when I need more wovens - though I have plenty for now. The cardi is on my make-more-soon list.

2025 June summary, living room and S6614 tops

Household. After co-ordinating the chair covers last month, it was time to replace a strip of water-damaged wallpaper in one corner of the room, and touch up paintwork surrounding it. Having failed to find proper storage boxes that fit my various bookcases/storage units, I covered the assortment of shoeboxes, biscuit boxes etc with wallpaper to match each other. The box covers pick out the brown in the upholstery and compensate for the cooler grey. The room feels much more restful now. 

Not much knitting. I prepped the Finchdale jumper by unpicking the top of sleeve caps but haven't touched it since. Only a few more rounds on the winter hat, despite a long train journey. Locally, I've been carrying a green baby hat in my day bag but not really doing much with it. 

Sewing-wise, cleared the decks, before returning to fitting S6614. I sorted out various folders to emphasise T&T patterns. Repairs done: Camo trousers rebound cuff. Tai chi cats tee, shortened by 3"-4". 

Took in yellow skirt elastic again. Trimmed loose threads on grey trainers. Those kinds of jobs. 

Two more versions of S6614 dress converted to a top were finished, both wearable, but not perfect. For example, with V2, reading in bed became uncomfy after 15 mins or so, fabric gathering under left arm, the one that supports the book. I'm OK with that, as this is a minimum ease trial not a pj trial. 

Tweaked v1, the blue gingham, again, before prepping the flat pattern again. V2 is a passable white woven tee, however the old sheeting fabric is thin, so it's for around the flat or under a jumper. I like wearing it, especially enjoying the scalloped neck edge which I hadn't done for ages. 

V3 was a recut chicken print top to test the altered flat pattern, and to try out a more open neckline. I dismantled last year's even though I knew the poplin is a bit stiff for this purpose. And the result? Well, they say a successful test finds a problem, and this test showed my shoulder fit still wasn't correct. Once the neckline was opened, everything moved back and the neck proportions just looked odd. I hacked it around to something better, details in my diary. 

It's odd that you often don't feel comfortable in a garment you have struggled with - even when it was a win in the end. Time often settles those feelings down, hope it will for this fun print. 

Spoiler, in July, I used what I learned on v4, blue and cream leftovers from the TDCO trousers. And then kept learning... 

2025 May summary

A warm and dry May. The summer clothes are in the easy-access drawers, and most of them, even the short sleeve tees, have been worn at least once. I parted with a few rarely chosen things: the denim skirt, the very thin black fleece, the green short sleeve smock. And eventually found some OK summer shoes which I'm wearing in. I am even more out-of-step with what's available in the shops because of a minor foot problem. 

It's been warm and dry enough to make a start on household care and repair. A coat of paint on the loo room. Replaced cupboard shelf liners. Washed all the cushion covers. Those kind of summer jobs.

The main sewing activity was covering the living room seating, blogged separately. A little knitting on a winter hat, just because it's a good handbag size project. 

I also made a start on the barely-worth-keeping fabric box. An ancient green sheeting trouser toile was hemmed, telling me a 20" hem just on the knee is comfortable, and is a possible underlayer for skirts or trousers, or for sleepwear. The fabric is so pieced and patched, though, that it's not worth putting a decent waistband on. 

More importantly, another round on the Simplicity S6614 started last year. I've added a smidge to the cb seam, reduced the back dart length, and added to the high shoulder point. I might add a little at the biceps, too, but have probably learned all I can from this version

Re-covering the seating

The seating in our living/dining room is varied. A 3-seater sofa, a roller chair and three of our four dining chairs are all ready for a refresh. However, a temporary solution would suit us since we plan to replace carpet and curtains in about three years. 

I managed to reuse the existing sofa throw, a large rectangle of cream upholstery fabric, with a subtle dandelion head decoration. It's draped so the good bits show (back, skirt and arms), hiding the inkstains under the seat cushions. The extension, falling behind the seat back, is only sheeting but doesn't show. The side panels were pieced from remnants hoarded from the same cream fabric as the throw. 

Contrast fabric was cream, grey and brown on a soft green background. The retailer calls it Splash, but it reminds me more of rock. DH dislikes flower prints, and I feel plain shows every mark, so this is a compromise. The cream and brown are good matches for the carpet and fireplace, we have some grey blankets around, and although the green is cooler than our curtains, we're both OK with the colours. I've used almost all of the four yards by 60" found in a charity shop.

I made a single shaped box cover for the sofa seat cushions, to stop stuff falling between them. Three of our four dining chairs now have new seat covers held by the existing screws. Since I don't have a staple gun, the folded corners have been 'assisted' using the hot glue gun and we'll see how it goes. 

At my desk, the roller chair has a new shaped foam box cushion, which works better than the 'ergonomic' seat for my short legs. It's now covered in the contrast fabric. The rectangle cunningly arranged around the seat is similar in colour to the sofa throw, so was reshaped to fit better but not replaced. Years ago, I had made a slipcover for the back, so took a pattern from it, cut it out in the contrast fabric, and just refined the shape slightly.

What did I learn? 

To prototype in fabric not paper, even though furniture doesn't move, at least not much. 

That you need to allow for compression and movement of the foam cushions / padding. 

To recheck the traced and trued pattern before cutting. 

That box cushions take a lot more fabric than you'd think. The bands each took more than a full 58" width. 

That I still don't know how to push curved needles or safety pins into taut fabric. 

To find suitable clamps when stretching to fit.

That the search term for our sofa is T-cushion slipcover, and it will likely be similar in price to a me-made one in new fabric.

That my memory for colours isn't accurate.

Overall, I'm happy that I've managed to visually bring disparate furniture together, so the room feels more coordinated and restful. 

2025 April summary. Repairs, weaving, and sofa cover. .

 This April has been warmer and drier than usual. It feels like an early Me-Made-May, because I've done loads of assessment and care-and-repair. A round of stain treatment on clothes and bedding now there's enough light to see what's what*. A round of the usual minor fixes: restitching popped seams and missing buttons; adjusting waist elastics; adding a dart at shoulder blade height...

* Obviously, spills get dealt with as soon as possible. Spring cleaning round is for the cumulative tiny dots and spots that just make fabric look tired. 

We have two relatively new backpacks. It'd be a big job to add a waist strap to the weekending bag (transfer weight to the hips not shoulders). But I could reuse some reclaimed webbing and clips to add a chest strap (keeps the shoulder straps in place). Looked for some cord and a small cantilever clip to help the day bag straps stay in place, but have temporarily settled for a lanyard with a very sturdy swivel clip. Think an oversized necklace clasp. It's just knotted on for now, but if a success I can use the lanyard tape, the swivel clip, and a small o-ring for a more permanent fix. 

The big repair job started was the Finchdale jumper. I've hardly worn it despite all those knitting hours, due to discomfort at the armscyes. Same symptoms as the Talvi had - and since I adjusted that it has hardly been off my back except for laundry. Added height to the sleeve caps. Hmm, better. However sleeve caps and sleeve bodies both need a tad more wearing ease. Before setting them in again, did some experiments on a scrap square with sprang weaving. I was able to improve the sleeves without reknitting the whole lot. Ladder a column of stitches, double twist the rungs pairwise and secure with a crochet chain, and it'll look deliberate while gaining two stitches width, about ⅓". Enough to feel the difference. Not done done yet, I'm considering filling in the bodice lower scye a little, but haven't checked against shirts as opposed to tees underneath. 

And a bonus craft project over the Easter break. I have a small table loom for a few weeks, the kind that uses a notched stick to create a shed. There's been time to make a teapot stand, using up long thin fabric scraps as twine. Interesting as an experiment, but too many weights and qualities of scrap to make decent twine. Plus, in practical terms, the shuttles and shed weren't designed to take this thickness. 

Also a small mat from all those two foot lengths of yarn that we** hoard. Started as an experiment in colour grading from a roughly sorted pile of scraps, ended up a little picture of meadow lake and mountain. I enjoyed doing this as an afternoon workshop kind of project, but not enough to want to store the loom permanently.

** 'We' meaning the author and quite possibly the reader.

Not much knitting. Finished an Aran toddler hat. And started another winter hat. For me! The loaghtan hat is permanently lost, I think because it was slightly small in diameter, despite reknitting. Different yarn to the recommended and didn't grow in use. So I've cast on another using my usual pattern. Start at crown, increase to 22.5", one hand span diameter, in 8 sections. Then increase gradually just a tad more for the brow bone. I can decide on rib/brim later when the fit is confirmed - I did like the horizontal ridges on the old one.

Also started a larger project. I don't want to have our sofa professionally recovered for two or three years - until building works on our estate are finished. But as a stop gap, I've been experimenting with the old throw, with paper templates, and with a length of curtain fabric. The current preferred option is to drape the old throw over back and arms and skirt, and under the seat cushions to keep it in place, and to hide the ink stains. Then make a single temporary cover for the three seat cushions. I'm reluctant to cover tham individually because I constantly lose pens, phone, knitting, etc between them. A few days into May I have a prototype cut, the fitted edges sewn, but only draped at the centre till I see how much excess to leave as an expansion joint to cope with foam compression when we sit.

2025 March bits and bobs

The TDCO trousers and Talvi jumper finished in March are already blogged, but not yet photographed. What else has been happening chez Mouselet? 

Denim Rtw skirt altered. It was a charity shop find bought for a western themed event. I'd already put an extra strip in at front high hip to get it to hang without literally hitting the back of my calves. However I still wasn't choosing it because the front slit was draughty. I've now patched in a fake underskirt, a salvaged 7" square. I like the way it looks and feels now. One last tiny gripe, I'm constantly breaking my brittle fingernails on the stiff fabric. Let's see if it lasts the spring, or whether I undo the alterations and donate it back. 

 

Altered red legwarmers when I found a bit more yarn. Is it "a cobbler's kids are the worst shod" thing, that I use best yarn for other people and make do for myself? 

Repairs done. 

Replace missing toggle on backpack drawstring. 

Let out elastic on smallest pair of new knicks. There's always one in a multipack that's been skimped. 

Used TDCO waistband to add another round of elastic to red fleece joggers. 

New arrivals

Coffee-coloured linen above-ankle skirt - another charity shop find. It's working well practically in this mild Spring weather. However a standard hip curve drapes the fabric away to the side of my body, so I may straighten the side seams for appearance. I'm tempted to take the excess from front only, giving more of a walking skirt silhouette. Maybe safety pin it and see how it hangs? There are more complicated options involving moving darts. 

What's next?

A few handstitched alterations to make permanent next time the sewing machine is out, e.g. take in tartan pjs  at ankles. And a few other things to fix. 

Get on with sofa and chair-seat covers.

Unfortunately I'd better pause the fitting project until my foot heals. In the meantime I will have no scruples about altering not-quite-last-legs garments to get me through the summer, or about acquiring and altering charity shop finds. 

    

2025 March. Finish No 2. TDCO trial garment.

The story so far? In January, took measurements using a WIDE paper strip, which led to cutting out a bigger size than usual. Prepped a temporary waistband, just a little narrower than the recommended since I don't have a flat front, anywhere. Snipped seam allowance above most prominent places - I was surely going to need shaping at high hip. Prepped worn-out sheet and pattern, New Look 6130. 

In February, started with the one legged muslin, getting a first approximation to front and back rise, to side seam ease at high and low hip, and to dart length and position. Lots of attempts - I'm new to this - and struggled to get enough sitting ease without too much jodphur effect on the outer thigh. I thought it a case of too tight at high hip rather too loose further down. Partway through adding the second leg (after carefully calculating circumference/s) realised I'd misread the seam allowance on the long seams. Had to restitch wider seams, and rework the rise and the darts.

 

Tried to add a little to the back upper leg extension for sitting room, however that sagged and rubbed when standing and walking, so didn't keep that change. 

Restitched the first leg and joined the two to get a feeling for torso fit. Indeed, there was pressure on the spine and belly, 

And in March? After a lot of what-if-ing, I departed from the method, in order to move fabric towards my centre front, which isn't flat. I angled out the straight bit of the seam, adding a tiny dart each side of the tum to restore size at waist. My swayback needed a similar treatment with tiny darts either side of the spine. 

Learned something from the way the fabric drapes below the tiny darts, it flows away from the body below the points. With this insight I rejigged all the darts, including the sideseam curve which falls on a flattish part of my hip. 

Also clipped the scoop to the full 5/8" seam allowance, which makes a difference. Previously I'd cautiously only clipped 1/2". Surprisingly more sitting room for such a small change. 

Shortening the back dart also helped sitting ease without disturbing the standing fit too much. 

At this point, I was ready to try slightly better fabric. I'd inherited some blue and cream woven cotton(?) with irregularly spaced stripes. The wrong side reads as chambray from a distance. Vertical placement would inform the fit, and I chalked the horizontal balance lines on. They don't show in the photos, but did in a mirror. The waistband in slightly narrower again, 1¼“ finished width. 

Once the legs were stitched, I finessed the darts, and fixed my iffy attempt at lengthening the legs from cropped on a tall person to long on a petite.

 

On a whim, I wondered how much ease I could pin out at side seam, low hip and along the leg length, straightening below the knee. Surprisingly, a scant quarter inch evened out the ease, and was actually easier to sit in than the less-than-fully-clipped scoop yesterday. 

Am I worried about departing from the TDCO method? Yes, although my particular shape with high hip bigger than low hip isn't discussed for this or any method. Justification? I've catered for about an inch at high hip by changing the angle of cf and cb above the scoop, so it's probably valid to lose a total of an inch at crotch height. There are still 2" extra at that height compared to my low hip measurement, to account for overhang from the tum. I'll keep that change.

What else to say? 

Pleased with my waistband finishing, with the bias bound scoop, and with the totally bogus fly. 

I still don't fill the garment at the knees, but don't dare take anything away at upper leg, or much away at calf.  Maybe compare lower leg shapes with other patterns now I have a decent knee line marked, or reluctantly think about stretch fabric another time. 

A bonus. I've already used the temporary waistband to correct the elastic position on last year's joggers

I'm pausing the project now because of a minor health problem, a soft tissue issue in my foot is affecting posture. And because a little weight loss is likely to help my stability. But in the meantime, these thin pants are much comfier than any Rtw I have, and I'm alternating between them and a long skirt while the weather is mild

2025 March, Finish No 1, reknitting Teal jumper

Finished reknitting (yoke and sleeve caps) 

The story so far? Pattern was the Talvi Knits Moss Green sweater, and I had made it up in teal Aran. It had stretched during several winters across the shoulders, and had become uncomfortable. I partly wanted to keep it as an everyday jumper (no longer pristine, but not scruffy housework condition yet) and partly wanted to work out my own shape for future knitwear. The A-line sideseam shaping gave enough clearance for my hip crests, the garter stitch band at low hip de-emphasised my rounded tum. Sleeves are a good length and width. The garter stitch cuffs add an unobtrusive detail. Those sections are worth keeping. 

In January, I unpicked the top 8-10", and washed the yarn to get some of the crinkles out. In February the yoke was offset a couple of stitches towards the front (3 would have been even better), decreasing above shoulder blades to account for my curvature, and to give correct narrow shoulders for me. I also sloped the shoulders more by decreasing in three sections rather than the original two. 

This month proved to be trickier. I'd interpreted the pattern as needing more rows than stated at the back. Then found the front too short, and had to add four more rows. Of course, this was discovered after picking up and knitting the neckline. Wish I had also lowered the scoop two rows, but the yarn was getting tired, as was I. 

The real fun began when setting in the sleeves. Apart from one short row to compensate for forward sloping shoulders, they were knitted and measured to match the scyes. But once attached and all the ends sewn in - lots of ends with reused yarn of course - the caps weren't high enough, and the shoulder seams were dragged downwards at yoke edges. 

I'm still not sure whether the issue was those extra rows at back and front. Or whether because I measured obliquely along the slope and then attached rows pairwise at the selvedge. Whichever, I needed another half inch height. Since I had to carefully cut and unpick the stitching at top of the sleeve caps, and then the cast-off edge, I took the chance to round off the caps. The extra rows were added on the decrease every two rows section, narrowing the cast off edge by 4 stitches. Then, because I could see how the cap wasn't quite filling the gap, I chose to do one more decrease row. That's more Me-shaped. 

The all-day wear test has been a success. 

I might at some stage add a label or a button to help getting dressed, since the neckline is warm and high, I have to think about which is the front.