Alterations. Quick wins to fill some wardrobe gaps.

The Me Made May project helped me get my clothes in good order, but gave me yet another reminder that I need fewer prints (shame) and more plain tops and trousers to fill my wardrobe gaps.

1/ When I found a pair of coral M&S chinos in a charity shop, UK size 16, it was an opportunity to try something different.  I have a 14 waist and low hip, but at high hip, I need every inch! I've had limited success in the past (understatement) altering the outseam or waist. Going back to basics, I compared with a successful basic pattern, a much modified descendant of New Look K6217. It's always harder to read the difference when a garment has darts. But it was clear that the entire back rise and the lower part of the front rise were the biggest differences. 

Safety pinned, tried, roughly stitched, retried, then took in the waist a bit. And it felt close enough for a short stroll. I'd an errand to drop something off at a neighbour's flat. That'd be a fair test.  Much better! Comfier than anything I can buy, but still needs a little more support. The mid part of the back rise provided some support, but I took in the upper part 1/4"×2 as well, above and beneath the bony  ridge. At front hip, pleated out 1/4"×2 each side, darting down to nothing a couple of inches below the band. Support above the tum was provided by darts in the waistband, 1/4"×2 at the top tapering to nothing at the base.

Shortened the legs by about two inches. To deal with the taper, unpicked the stitching line but not the serging above the hem fold. All changes were held together with long stitches until I'd walked into town the next day. All was well, so unpicked the old stitching and topstitching on the rise, then restitched it more tidily. Then I was confident to trim and zigzag (which gave me a fraction more ease to kneel comfortably as well as sit, stand and walk.) Not perfect, but perfectly wearable.

2/ As a can't-spoil-it project I did the same alteration to widen and scoop the rise of the size 14 M&S  navy chinos. They'd always a bottom-of-the-washing-pile choice. Wearable, sort of, but unsightly and uncomfortable for more than a few hours, you know the kind. And guess what? So much improved that I'd wear them to meet a friend. Comfy enough to sit all evening. I think this change might happen to at least one other pair of plain trousers.

Before

After

3/ A different gap.  I didn't possess a hot weather dress that I could wear in public. A couple of sleeved dresses. And some camisoles, whose pattern is Tried but not Trusted yet. When I found a cotton bias-cut sleeveless dress for a couple of pounds, size 18, a few days before the Saharan weather system returned to our parts, it had to come home with me. I love bias cut, it stretches vertically or horizontally to size, but doesn't walk around your body. On the other hand it needs TLC when altering. As I'd thought, the fit was good, but the shoulders were too long for a petite person. Without any effort, you could see the bottom my bra band at the underarm. I'd seen a tutorial on Mrs Mole's site (fit for a queen blog) a few days before, to raise a neckline in a lined dress. This was effectively the same problem, so followed the instructions, and the dress became respectable. Not only that, it was worn and washed nearly every day while the hot spell lasted.

I just need an overshirt which goes, now, for sun protection on my way out or home! 

4/ And finally, another charity shop indulgence. What mouselet wouldn't want a Swiss Cheese Plant top? This used to have a contrast hem band - making the top too long for me. And the sleeves were too tight, so I unpicked a few stitches at the lower curve. I'm not sure yet where I stand in wardrobe planning terms on short sleeves (protects overlayers from your skin) vs long sleeves (sun protection, good for many months of our year) vs sleeveless (I'd rarely wear in public). But I have enjoyed wearing this in our flat and on evening walks.