The last post was a summary of the fitting shell flat patterns. I'm trying to find the smallest garment I can do my daily activities in. Of course, it's always a case of trying things out in cloth, tweaking the flat pattern, then testing again. Made up two versions, and wore each around the flat for a couple of early mornings and evenings. I talked about some of my comfort requirements yesterday, but should also mention that when sitting on a chair too high or too deep for a petite person, it's hard not to slump. Both versions coped well.
The white version was made first, in three different leftovers*. Stitched a contrast thread at bust, waist and hip levels, so that between princess seams and visible landmark, it'd be easy to check the fit. I didn't bother finishing edges as this trial was never going to be wearable. The slit at the neck line was simply unpicking the Centre Front seam for a couple of inches - though I'm likely to reuse the idea in a more secure form.
*Only tiny scraps of each now remain from two worn-out sheets and a torn and stained duvet cover. I'm very happy to have made good use of all the decent bits.
The smallest fabric piece that would work for the darted version came from Mum's leftover box. Just managed it. The piecing at front shoulders had to be on a slightly different grain line. Only one fragment was over 2" wide once everything was cut out.
I think the fabric is polyester crepe, stable on the grain and cross grain, but very springy and it frays like mad on the diagonal. It also distorts on the cutting mat. It was really hard to see where the grain lines were, and to make it harder the selvedges were missing on part of the length. So not a great choice to check drape or symmetry.
Lots of pattern weight and pins were needed. Also pressed the central dart lines to try tame the spring before stitching up. To cope with the fraying, I did French seams at shoulder and side seams. That technique needs more practice, as there are more than a few whiskers escaped to the right side.
What do people do about fraying fabrics? Would zigzagging as soon as its cut out help? I normally pin mark dart points and stitch as soon as possible. Would tailor tacks or a washable marker work better?
The armscye is high, and was going to need trimming, so I set sleeves in as normal. When happy with the easing, zigzagged at a generous quarter inch, then trimmed. Perhaps pinking shears would have been even better.
I busked it when hemming French seams at the underarms (short sleeves). Pressed, released the seam in the hem area, tacked (hand basted) hemmed and then put in a few hand stitches where the angles gave meagre seams. Well, I'd shortened the sleeves for better proportions, so didn't have much to play with.
Since I generally get decent results with a high neckline, but struggle once it get's wider and lower, I thought I'd experiment before I finished the top edge. Usually I shave by tucking one sleeve into the other, chalking round a French curve, and cutting through both layers. But this time I wanted a bit more of a scoop. Oh dear, I ended up with one very rounded curve and one slightly squared curve. Ok, I'd prefer a smidgeon lower anyway, so let's cut a curve on folded kitchen paper, then pin that in place before tracing and cutting. Much better. Isn't it rewarding coming up with a solution? Especially when there isn't the time pressure of working for someone else.
The bad news was some backwards creep during wear, luckily found out before it was bound. The problem may have been poor stitching or cutting at the centre back. I took in 1/8" at the top inch, and all was fine. However, I'm still not sure how low or wide a back neckline can get before I have to think carefully about back darts to deal with a wide back and narrow shoulders.
And how did it work out?
In the pictures at the top of the post, you can see the asymmetry at the hemline. That's caused by one shoulder sloping more than the other. However I'm going to live with it this year.
I knew I was cutting it fine (pun intended) trialling with so little fabric. When I reach up, you can see this is the absolute minimum length for me. The gap above the trouser waistband would be too draughty for winter. But my rib-line is covered - I have scars there I'm not keen to show.
The zombie photo shows what I was aiming for. No pulling at the back. There is some pressure but it's evenly spread. This'll do.
Overall I'm pleased to have two improved patterns, and one wearable garment from a small leftover.
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