Wednesday 2 August 2023

2023 July roundup. Mostly tees

Not much knitting. The teal Hermia summer cardi is progressing slowly, four more rows to go, and then button band and ribbing. Cast on another baby hat for a short train journey, it's done from crown to start of the ribbing. 

But lots of sewing 
NS258 pleated trousers - sage linen. Added a pocket, and it's now a popular choice. 
Freya 2023 v3 from blue flowers and dots. Different fabric handling - keep mouse paws behind the needle when stitching for this cotton/lycra mix. Quite a few pattern tweaks such as adding sleeve cap ease for using standard furniture (too tall for me), and adding a centre back godet to try solve high-hip fitting problems. Worn several times already. 
Freya 2023 v3a. Instead of the planned matching skirt, the blue flowers and dots jersey became another tee. Remeasured myself, included the godet in the back piece, and did a small sway back adjustment. Still want to tweak the ease at underarm though. Tidy and comfortable. I like wearing this one. 
Freya 2023 v4 from reclaimed pj trousers. Some difficulties because fabric was well used and needed piecing. I'm happier with the front yoke (less ease), the front drape (bigger darts) and the abdomen ease (more and better distributed). In the first days of August, I tweaked the sleeves and overbust, but haven't retested the flat pattern yet. 

Repairs:
Replaced damaged button on red linen trousers.  
Button on DH's trousers.  
Coral double gauze overshirt, remove torn collar and used some of the fabric to reinforce the inside collar stand. 

Not done. Adapt men's trousers with damaged back hem for me using front hem to add to front rise. Oh dear, these were 34" waist, and, while I could fasten them, I would need another 2" to get the waistband to sit horizontally, plus at least 1" extra height in the front rise. Given that the pocket fronts are about to fray too, and the knees are distinctly pale, I simply salvaged the zip and binned these. 

Not done yet. Burda Easy 8957 v4 in chicken print poplin, planned with a scoop neck and a darted sleeve. I had been looking forward to sewing this, but got pulled into tee-making instead while the fabric was in the washing machine. Partly because, after years looking for a shirt that didn't rub at front armscoop, three came along at once (to charity shops near me). 

Unusually for me, I bought, in a shop, a sunhat with a bigger brim than my own. Saved my skin, literally, on an unscheduled trip. I'm mentioning it because my attempts at weighting the latest tee hem made me wonder whether next year I could try a bigger brim myself and stiffen it a little with binding. I like hats that can be stuffed in a bag, and my current pattern has the biggest brim that two layers of quilting cotton would support. 




What else sewing related? 
In my diary, I reviewed the flat pattern changes I'd made to NS258 pleated pants and changes so far to Burda 8957. It'd be nice to to do the same for my tee against the original Freya from Tilly and the Buttons before I file the pieces away. I'll say again that the original pattern gave me several well-worn garments, and was a useful stepping stone to working out my preferences. However I don't think I'm likely to go back to the negative ease trend, which was very popular when the design was published. 

I chose not to do Make what you need in June, since the last two months have concentrated on polishing patterns for two workhorse garments anyway. But I did make notes in my July diary about hmm... August? Not sure whether my notes are worth turning into a blog post, but it sharpened my thinking about needs using themes of Function, Fitting, Finishing and Fun. I can choose something from the wardrobe holes list for next month. 

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