What has happened in the last few days?
- Lowered 5/8" front and back, neck more comfortable, but armscyes now seem very low. Come back to this.
- Added 1" strip at front yoke, tapering to nothing at armscyes. This has straightened overbust grain.
- Moved darts up (twice) and increased the depth. First attempt didn't take into account the extra fabric added at previous two steps.
- Added 1.75" strip at underbust, tapering to 1" at side seams. Compensates for increasing dart depth above, and straightens tum grain. Note to self: this is actually below waist, because the slash was cut at waist level before I moved the darts up. It serves its purpose though.
- Shortened to 26" all round. EDIT: after adding the various elements, it's come out at 29 1/8". I plan the finished top at my usual 23"-24", but will learn more from a below-rump trial.
Still to polish
- Less ease at tum than elsewhere. (Because of lowering the slope between waist and hip?)
- Keeps trying to creep up over the shoulders. That's why it's pinned to a tee in some pictures. EDIT next day: pinning a 1/4" tuck (1/2" uptake) just below neckline keeps the shoulders in place. I'll lower front 1/8", neckline 1/2" more, back by 5/8" for now.
- Shoulders now too wide. Because I followed the curve of the neck and armscye upwards. Redraft shoulders so this doesn't happen
Next steps
- Get full remeasure in the winter bra, to plot actuals on next attempt. EDIT next day: done but not digital yet. Interestingly, the bra affects measurements as high as the yoke. Also, I must be straighter than usual today, the shoulder to waist measurements are the same, usually 1/2" different.
- Retrace front pattern, adding wedges for the strips, and straightening the centre front.
- Cut a new front with less piecing. Mark landmark lines and retest
The warts and all thumbnails
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