Sunday, 18 September 2022

Mrs Mole's fit-a-long: that wretched shoulder slope

Pressed seams and photographed.


Front is hugely improved now, when the shoulder seam is in place, though the padded straps on my winter bra show through. The seam stays fairly well, but still creeps backwards when I move both of my arms at once.


However, the shoulder seam is ropy on the slopiest bit of my neck, three finger widths, about 1.5". Does it need a wedge of fabric? Let's release the stitching a bit and see how big a wedge. Hmm, about 1/4" at the stitching line. Coincidentally, that's how much I gain if I straighten out the 'dome' that was on the original pattern, and has worried me from the beginning. The other glued-on strip is the extra 5/8" depth added a while ago.
 

And is it any better? Rather, I think, but not enough to write home about. It feels better, anyway.



Last night I had also tackled the oddly placed (my bad) waist dart. Moved it 3cm towards the centre (estimated from the stripes on the fabric) to its more usual place under the shoulder blades. Also shortened the lowest point by 4cm. Now the lower bodice has moved down, the dart needed adjusting to clear the bony ridge. 

This area could still do with some work - though I think the problems are just clearer rather than being oblique to the standard shots.

Once that's done, there is a chance of seeing where excess fabric can be pinned out, roughly shoulder blade to waist. At some stage the asymmetry of the prominent right shoulder blade could be dealt with, there's half an inch difference in waist-shoulder measurement. But one thing at a time.




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