At the shoulders, instead of letting out the 2" nearest the neck by 1/8", I increased the seam on the outer two thirds. That's much smoother (from the front at least) .
Undid the change to the bust darts, raising the point 1/8" back to the original. That helps. As a bonus, the top leg now runs along the cross grain, much nicer in this fabric.
The side seams kick to the back below the bust. I took out a 1/2“ wedge from the front on one side, 3/4" the other side (at the piecing seam). I prefer the hang of the larger amount. Of course, ages ago I'd added two wedges at different heights to the centre front, so it makes sense that there'd be a second adjustment at the side seam.
Saturday: put the size 14 sleeves in, trying the three row ease stitching. That is so much smoother at machine time! First attempt I could raise arms without discomfort to just above horizontal - but my kitchen cupboards are slightly higher than that. So used the seam allowance to make the armpit 1/4" higher. Now that's good enough for my regular activities. Cleaning high surfaces, raising both arms, will be slightly uncomfy, but I'm not likely to split any seams.
So cheer! And think about next steps:
From the dark green gingham, it's worth seeing if I can get an off-duty shirt, comfy and breathable but not elegant. Stitch the pocket back on to cover the inkstain (it's only tacked on so far) Darn the small tear on the back tails. Cut the original sleeves down using the size 14 cap - the cuffs are fine. Add a mandarin collar from what's left of the yokes. Wear it on a couple of days I'm mostly at home (hence the housework activities). It wouldn't take long to do any of these things, and would give me a really good wear test.
Trace the back and front, with the changes above, onto more permanent paper. Decide whether to risk the new fabric - I've chosen a fun mustard-coloured chicken-print poplin which has just arrived. Or to unpick a man's large gingham shirt, which was bought (during the bus strike/train strike/school holidays) precisely as a trial fabric. Hmmm, I know which I'd rather do, and which I ought to do.
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