Mrs Mole's Fit-a-long: testing those armscyes

Yesterday I tacked (basted) in a copy of the original armscyes, size 14. 

Today I smoothed out the shoulders (much better) and cut out the original size 14 sleeves-well, cut to their hem line to be a smidgeon shorter, because this era's sleeve lengths irritate the inside of my elbows.

I also measured the revised neck, and cut a size 24 (!) collar which was close to the total. I was a little short of fabric at the collar points, so there is hardly anything to fold in there. But itt's ok for this purpose, which is to check the seam shape and the proportions. 

More importantly, I need to check the seam allowances at the neck, since a standard 5/8" was klunky at the collarbone - or maybe I just need more practice.

The sleeves went into the scyes ok. Looked fine on the hanger. Looked not too bad when my arms are by my sides. But oh dear, it'd be a disaster for a zombie. (photos to edit and insert here)

The cocktail party stance is OK, but reaching forward to type, wash up, or any of those daily activities is awkward. Reaching high with both arms to work a whiteboard or hang a curtain is impractical - you could just do it, but not for long.

So I'll need to revisit those armscyes and/or the sleeves. Options include :

Widening the sleeves to reduce the pressure - though they are not tight at the biceps. 

Narrowing the shoulder seam by about 1/2“ back to my preferred width. Which would steal a little depth when armscye is rotated to reach the overbust line. (And a little more because the shoulders won't drop.)

Shorten scye and sleeve for more movement ease. But not so much it compromises the semi-fitted feel. Could I use the size 12 or even size 10 outlines?

The smallest test I can do is use a tiny seam allowance, 1/4" say, at the armpit. See whether that improves things, and if so, how much. 

EDIT: I tried shaving the seam allowance. The extra 3/8" does make a difference. There's a sense of pressure but not discomfort now when in typing or washing up posture. Zombie is just about possible, though pretty uncomfy, However cleaning high cupboards would be out of the question. I need to lose at least 5/8" in depth.

Next sewing session, I'll shorten the shoulder seam, Then patch in extra fabric and use the size 12 or size 10 scye.

EDIT: Tuesday evening, patched in some extra fabric. Oh dear, this area is looking like cardboard. Then marked out a possible new cutting line, 1/2" narrower at the shoulders, 1/4“ narrower at front yoke, no change at back yoke, and 5/8" higher at the pit.