Wednesday 5 October 2022

Mrs Mole's Fit-a-long: a quick test wear

Yesterday I marked a possible new armscye. 1/2" narrower at the shoulders, 1/4“ narrower at front yoke, no change at back yoke, and 5/8" higher at the pit.

 Today I put the sleeves back in along the new line. That is nearly workable now.

I also pressed the seam lines on lapels and collar to see the proportions - that'll be fine. 

There are no particular pressure points. Would still need to do the shoulder shuffle manoeuvre to clean a high cupboard. On the other hand, I wore it over my tee shirt while making and drinking a cuppa. 

It was constraining at the shoulders and back but not sore when filling the kettle, drawing the curtains, getting mugs from a head-height cupboard, and reaching forward to the coffee table. I'd want side seam vents (which are on the pattern) for prolonged sitting, but will probably shorten to my usual length of 1 1/2" above the low hip line instead. Tum width is enough.



Next steps. 
Further changes to the bodice are going to be in the region of 1/4“, So it's worth transferring all changes to the flat pattern now. Then recut to test it. 

Additionally:
The left shoulder seam is pretty good, the right (more sloping one) could be a little steeper and shorter.
Drop the bust darts 1/8" or so. 
Lift the armscyes and shorten sleeve caps by 1/8" or even 1/4". They are now a generous three fingers below the pit.
No more changes to the yokes. 
By coincidence, the button spacings for  waist, high hip and low hip will transfer upwards to bust height. The lapel fold button is a little less, but it doesn't look ugly there.

Sounds like a plan. 

EDIT: Friday, marked all stitching lines (it happened to be right back and left front) on the right side with a scarlet pencil. Then unpicked the temporary collar and sleeves, undid shoulder seam, side seam and back darts. It's ready to trace another day.

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